needles
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#2
needles
Yes that will richen it but if your looking at the ceramic on the plug & are looking at it after it's been idling your reading your plug wrong.
You need to do a plug chop with a new plug & look at the base of the threads instead of the creamic.
Here's how you do it (from the Trinity Racing web site)
TO READ PLUGS PROPERLY YOU WILL NEED A 10x ILLUMINATED MAGNIFYING GLASS
1,2,3. This is how it's done!
1. You set your heat range from the ground strap. (this is the piece closest to the piston)
2. You do all the plug readings for jetting from the base ring (thebase ring is what the ground strap is welded to at the end of the threads)
3. You determine detonation and timing issues from the porcelain.
(The porcelain shows preignition/detonation, it will not accurately determine jetting / air/fuel ratios)
DO NOT BASE JETTING DECISIONS ON THE PORCELAIN COLOR.
1. How to determining plug heat range:
The ground strap is your window to getting this right. If the "color" of the ground strap "changes" too-close to the ground-strap's end, (the end opposite of the base ring), then the heat-range is "too-cold", (heat transfer is to quick to the base ring)
If the "color" of the strap changes near where it is welded to the base-ring, then it means that the plug heat-range is "too-hot", (heat transfer to the base ring is to slow causing the deposits to be burned off the strap completely) The strap at this point could start working like a "glow-plug", probably resulting in pre-ignition/and/or detonation. The properly set heat-range is when the "color" is at the half-way point on the strap.
2. Reading the base ring to determine jetting:
The base ring "color" is very close to the color of the piston crown and is used to determine the jetting. Your looking for the soot color to be a nice light to medium brown, (color is always hard to describe) if the color doesn1t go all the way around the base ring (at least one full thread turn on the plug) or the color is whitish it is way too lean. If the color goes all the way around, but there is a spotting of heavy dry soot on the top of the color, you are too rich. ( TWO STROKE JETTING WILL BE A LITTLE WETTER LOOKING AND DARKER THEN A FOUR STROKE )
3. Read the porcelain to determine detonation / preignition:
The first signs of detonation / preignition will be seen on the porcelain down in the plug, It shows up as tiny black or shinny specks of aluminum. Also Look very close around the center electrode where the porcelain intersects, this will appear to be melting between the insulator and the electrode.
Detonation is caused by the air/fuel mixture exploding rather then burning. This gives off a sound, (a knock) this sound is the result of a shock wave, this wave disrupts the boundary layer of cooler gases that cover the internal parts of the combustion chamber. This causes a very rapid rise in pressure and temperature. The results are holes in the top or sides of the pistons, blown head gaskets, broken rods, (all bad stuff) This can also shock the rings from there seal causing oil to form as little spots on the porcelain.
save this for future use!!
You need to do a plug chop with a new plug & look at the base of the threads instead of the creamic.
Here's how you do it (from the Trinity Racing web site)
TO READ PLUGS PROPERLY YOU WILL NEED A 10x ILLUMINATED MAGNIFYING GLASS
1,2,3. This is how it's done!
1. You set your heat range from the ground strap. (this is the piece closest to the piston)
2. You do all the plug readings for jetting from the base ring (thebase ring is what the ground strap is welded to at the end of the threads)
3. You determine detonation and timing issues from the porcelain.
(The porcelain shows preignition/detonation, it will not accurately determine jetting / air/fuel ratios)
DO NOT BASE JETTING DECISIONS ON THE PORCELAIN COLOR.
1. How to determining plug heat range:
The ground strap is your window to getting this right. If the "color" of the ground strap "changes" too-close to the ground-strap's end, (the end opposite of the base ring), then the heat-range is "too-cold", (heat transfer is to quick to the base ring)
If the "color" of the strap changes near where it is welded to the base-ring, then it means that the plug heat-range is "too-hot", (heat transfer to the base ring is to slow causing the deposits to be burned off the strap completely) The strap at this point could start working like a "glow-plug", probably resulting in pre-ignition/and/or detonation. The properly set heat-range is when the "color" is at the half-way point on the strap.
2. Reading the base ring to determine jetting:
The base ring "color" is very close to the color of the piston crown and is used to determine the jetting. Your looking for the soot color to be a nice light to medium brown, (color is always hard to describe) if the color doesn1t go all the way around the base ring (at least one full thread turn on the plug) or the color is whitish it is way too lean. If the color goes all the way around, but there is a spotting of heavy dry soot on the top of the color, you are too rich. ( TWO STROKE JETTING WILL BE A LITTLE WETTER LOOKING AND DARKER THEN A FOUR STROKE )
3. Read the porcelain to determine detonation / preignition:
The first signs of detonation / preignition will be seen on the porcelain down in the plug, It shows up as tiny black or shinny specks of aluminum. Also Look very close around the center electrode where the porcelain intersects, this will appear to be melting between the insulator and the electrode.
Detonation is caused by the air/fuel mixture exploding rather then burning. This gives off a sound, (a knock) this sound is the result of a shock wave, this wave disrupts the boundary layer of cooler gases that cover the internal parts of the combustion chamber. This causes a very rapid rise in pressure and temperature. The results are holes in the top or sides of the pistons, blown head gaskets, broken rods, (all bad stuff) This can also shock the rings from there seal causing oil to form as little spots on the porcelain.
save this for future use!!
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