My GF's boy has a 2 yr old Coolster 110cc (Kazuma I believe but not 100%) Well it ran fine the other day...he rode it for an hour with a few breaks here and there. But it started as usual for 30-40 degree temps...Well he turned it off and that was it...tried to restart it and it will crank but no run...it is getting spark and from the fuel that was dripping out of the exhaust flange it is getting fuel. I figured he flooded it. and in the cold temps it wasn't easy to dry out. but I cleaned the plug, left it out for 15 min's or so to let the cylinfder dry out and no go still...it cranks, gets gas, makes spark (but pretty small compared to a car spark it seems) but it just won't run, or even give an indication that it wants to run....battery is good, cranks as expected. Let it sit overnight and still nothing, warmed the jug up with my heat gun, got it uniformly about 100 degrees and still nothing.
I am at a loss.
I read a lot of posts searching for ideas, brake lite bulb, switches, etc.
One idea was the brake interlock, it has one on the foot brake and one on the hand brake. the hand brake, when pulled will let it crank, when not pulled it won't crank (operates porperly it seems) the foot brake used to do this as well, hold foot brake it cranks, release foot brake it won't. currently the foot brake will no longer activate the interlock nor the brkae lite, brake bulb is good and as stated before it gets spark so one would thinkg it should run.
He said it made nto wierd running or noises before he turned it off...just won't refire.
This Forum seems very helpful, informative and has helpful people, pretty glad I found it and look forwrd to any help you all can offer.
Have you ever adjusted the valves? Your supposed to do this periodically. Hard starting (or no starting) when cold are the classic symptoms. I'd start with that first.
As far as the brake safety interlocks, it is wired such that *either* brake applied will satisfy the interlock. The fact that you rear brake doesn't do the job anymore is typical. These rear pedal switches are finicky (but they are adjustable). No matter though, a failed interlock will keep the starter from turning at all. It has nothing to do with whether the quad will start up.
Ditto any kill switch issues. If your getting spark you don't have a kill switch issue, since kill switches just prevents spark (also note that they never keep the starter motor from turning).
I have never done the valves.. I was thinking this as well and found a post that had good instructions (I like this forum so far).
The pulse trigger/coil....hhhmmm...will hafta do some searching on this for location and info as I am unfamiliar with it.
Sure do appreciate the ideas tho.
The weather is so crappy here in cincy (freezing rain,ice, cold, windy) the idea of trucking it to the shop isn't too appealing if i can avoid it by putting in some shop time.
Ok, lets first find your CDI and determine what type it is.......
Does it look like the one pictured below?
Maybe your's is even different that what's pictured.
The main thing is, you need to take the CDI off and test the voltage on the trigger wire on the connector you just took off the CDI. This is going to be AC in most cases. You will want to put the 'red' lead of your voltmeter in the connector that corrosponds to the "trigger" wire...and the 'black' lead to ground. Then have someone try to start the ATV. Check the voltage, should be 2ish volts.
"..it is getting spark and from the fuel that was dripping out of the exhaust flange it is getting fuel."
I would look at the carb, before I started taking anything apart. It may just be the float... does it still have gas in it? Is the fuel line cracked or loose?Does it have an in-line filter?
Take a look at the fuel system first.. IF it is getting fire.
Thanks Lord V. I will begin reviewing the above info tonite or this friday...get to the bottom of this quads "issue".
The CDI is kinda under the seat i believe...I think I saw something with such a plug. Unlike a car there aren't too many "larger" multi-prong plugs on these little quads.
Armagh, I am thnking it was a "severely flooded" situation that put the large qty of fuel and etehr there....as it is still full of fuel and no signs of a seeping float/needle valve...but it is on my mind fer sure....that carb and a possible carb issue. Fortunately they aren't overly expensive.
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