I have a 2002 F-150 5.4 with a factory towing package. It has the 7 pin trailer connector mounted in the rear. This weekend, I will be towing a trailer from Dallas, TX to Mena, AR. I have been told that the trailer requires a 7 pin connector because it is to heavy to stop without.

Do I need some type of control box, or will this just work the way it is? If I do need something, where is a good place to find one for a decent price? How much should I expect to pay.

I am only going to be pulling this one time so I do not want to spend any more than I have to.

Thank you.

 

You will need to get a brake controller. Fairly easy to install, have done it on my trucks and didn't break (no pun intended) anything. The truck should be pre wired, so all you would need is the proper plug in to the fuse box, and then hook the correct wires to that. Then just mount the controller.

I put a Hopkins impulse controller on my Titan and have had no issues with it. It does display an E 1 if there is no trailer hooked up.(only when brake is depressed) And I have it mounted sideways so the wife was confused why it would show 13 every time she would use the brakes.

 

I found these at Northern tool for a decent price. Will this be sufficient for what I need? which would be the best?

Hayes Syncronizer® Brake Controller, Model# 81725 | Brake Controllers | Northern Tool + Equipment

Hopkins Reliance™ Digital Electronic Brake Control | Brake Controllers | Northern Tool + Equipment

TAP Brake-Force Electronic Trailer Brake Control | Brake Controllers | Northern Tool + Equipment


I am kinda leaning towards the first one as it looks like the best, but I am open to opinions. I am going to pick this up after work today.


Thank you

 

I had a cheaper model TAP in one truck. 6 months later it started acting up. Got a replacement with no questions asked. The Hopkins I put in my Chevy I had problems with from the start. Called customer support and they walked me through all my connections and did some stuff to test it out. Seems the controller was working fine. There was a fuse under the hood that Chevy put a dummy in. Put an actual fuse in there and the unit worked flawlessly. So I give Hopkins credit for great customer support. Both the TAP and Hopkins are lifetime warranties.

Wouldn't worry too much about the looks. Chances are you're going to have it mounted where it's not really that visible.

 

Ok, Thank you. After reading some reviews on all the units, I think I will go with the Hopkins Reliance. If I can remember, I will report back here after the trip to let know about how it worked out.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Fords are generally set up so that you have to install a relay so the + pin on the trailer socket is hot when the key is on. This charges the trailer's battery (either the house battery on an RV, or the trailer's break away battery on cargo trailers). It is a cheap part at any auto parts store. Usually the relay goes in to an electrical panel behind the trim along the right side of the passenger footwell. Check your owner's manual.

As far as brake controllers go, the smoothest out there are fluid pressure proportional, maxbrake and brakesmart, but you probably don't want to drop that kind of $$$ for what you are doing.

In an inexpensive unit, I would highly suggest the Prodigy or P3 Technocia. They are the better ones of the electronic deceleration sensing type.

Below those are timer based units, which begin to ramp up braking once the truck's brake light switch is activated. You can usually adjust the maximum output and how fast it ramps up. These are horrible to use, as they apply the trailer brakes the same whether you are easing up to a stop sign or doing a panic stop on the freeway. The trailer is always either pushing the truck, or trying to jerk the truck to a stop.

Also, the brake controller will plug into a socket that is usually tucked up above the parking brake. Your truck likely came with a mating socket with leads on it to hook to the controller. Different brands use different wire colors, so don't match them by color- match them by function. One is + power, one is - ground, one is brake switch input, and one is the trailer brake wire.

Better yet, many controllers can be ordered for a particular make of vehicle, in which case it comes with the proper plug already properly wired, so it is ready to plug in to the pickup.

 

i run a Reese Pilot brake controller. no issues. it does an awesome job for me.

 

Just wanted to chime in here (on an old thread) to say that I installed a Prodigy P3 in my truck and it works terrific. Prodigy is a Tekonsha product, owned by the same company that owns Reese and a few other large names in the towing industry.