after the cylinder is bored and a new piston is installed is a break in proceedure needed? If yes what is it thanks[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

yes it is needed to help seal the rings along the cylinder walls, simply start it and let it idle for 20 minutes and shut it off, let it cool COMPLETELY and do this 2 more times (yes it takes some time but when all is said and done it should save some on your topend) after you finished those idle heat cycles you may ride it around for about 30 minutes never going past 1/4 throttle but dont keep it at the same idle for long period, let it cool completely and then do it again but dont go past 1/2 throttle, dont go much more then 30 min and let it cool completely, then again doing it and not going past 3/4 throttle for 30 minutes, let it cool completely final step, take it out and range from throttle as much as possible hitting full throttle every so often and holding it wide open for a couple seconds but not to long, dont beat on it, let it cool off once more completely and then rip on it, Yes it may take a good day of doing so but beers are a great help

i do this with my banshee, works great all the time.

 

thanks for the info[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Oh don't do all that crap. Just take it out and fire it up, you do not want to let it idle. Just cruise around for an hour or so, varying the RPM's but not running the same RPM for long. This especially holds true if you put in a new cam as well. Let her cool off, change the oil, and you are ready to rip it up. That is really all it takes to break in a new setup, rather than the long overly drawn out project mentioned by speedy.

 

And DONT USE SYN oil not good for break in's and beefy is correct,I've been looking ito this a lot for a wile now..The manual says run the bike on regular trail ride for 30 min at about 3000 rpm's...cool it down do it a couple more times,then change the oil

 

hey todd did the torque stuffer do any thing for you?

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: speedyman12345

yes it is needed to help seal the rings along the cylinder walls, simply start it and let it idle for 20 minutes and shut it off, let it cool COMPLETELY and do this 2 more times (yes it takes some time but when all is said and done it should save some on your topend) after you finished those idle heat cycles you may ride it around for about 30 minutes never going past 1/4 throttle but dont keep it at the same idle for long period, let it cool completely and then do it again but dont go past 1/2 throttle, dont go much more then 30 min and let it cool completely, then again doing it and not going past 3/4 throttle for 30 minutes, let it cool completely final step, take it out and range from throttle as much as possible hitting full throttle every so often and holding it wide open for a couple seconds but not to long, dont beat on it, let it cool off once more completely and then rip on it, Yes it may take a good day of doing so but beers are a great help



i do this with my banshee, works great all the time.</end quote></div>


Where did you get the idea to do all of that? I know people that will rebuild an engine and go straight to the race track and rip on it all day long! I have always heard to just vary your RPM's for the 1st couple of hours and you'll be fine.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: hndgnr

hey todd did the torque stuffer do any thing for you?</end quote></div>

It's hard to say really..with all the mid and top end mods that am doing,I figured a cheap one that says it helps with the low end was worth a try..I'd like to say it helps in sticky mud with those 25" mudlites,but there is no data to back it up..Except I dont have to use my winch that often [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

As was mentioned, do not use synthetic for the break in. I forgot to mention that.