This has a disc brakes on the rear. They were working okay but while I had them off to repair the rear swingarm bolt, I noticed th epad on one side was wearing more than the other one. I got the swingarm repaired and put everything back and it was stopping fine. I checked the brake fluid reservoir and it was empty so I filled it up. I let it be since it was working and intended to come back later to bleed the line fo air and make sure the caliper was working okay and try to get teh pads to wear evenly.
Well last night I loosened the bleed off nipple on the caliper and pressed the pedal and fluid came out. I kept doing that until none would come out. Filled the reservoir up. With the nipple closed, held pedal down, loosened nipple to let air out, tightened nipple, and let of pedal. Repeated this fluid was coming out. Now the brakes do not work. With the caliper off the rotor, you can press the pedal and nothing moves on the caliper. Not sure if I did this correct or not. Never had to bleed brakes on anything. Any suggestions?

 

Make sure the bleed screw is the highest point when you're bleeding it. Or better yet maybe mount it back on the quad as it will be posistioned correctly then. I've seen goofy things happen on cars in the past.

Once everything is back together, fill it the res. and maybe see if it will gravity bleed by letting it sit with the bleeder screw off/loose and see if it flows out slowly.

 

Highest point? Don't you mean lowest point? The bleed nipple is on the bottom of the caliper so when mounted, it is jsut above the skid plate tht is under the axle.

 

Oh well if thats how its mounted then I guess take it off and set in on the axle so the bleed nipple is the high point on the caliper. That way it should work better to bleed. On auto's this is how they are mounted as it doesn't work when the bleed nipples are on the bottom at least on cars.

 

When your bleeding brakes your getting of rid of air in the lines and caliper. With the bleed nipple at the bottom, there is a lot of room for air in the caliper.

 

That makes sense. Wonder why they designed it to be on th ebottom when mounted. I saw an E-Ton this weekend that had the bleeder valve on top like Sawyer says and now it all makes sense.
Let me make sure I've got this right. I'll have to bleed it with the caliper off the disc which will make the pads squeeze together too far to put back on. Then when I get all the air out, I'll have to take the pads out, remove the fluid reservoir cap and squeeze the piston back into the caliper to open it up enough to put back on the rotor disc. Then fill the reservoir up and pump the brakes until the piston pushes out far enough to make the pads contact the rotor disc. Is this right?

 

It was assembled in China.. Id guess they have no idea how to bleed brakes..

Ive never done it that way... just have everything assembled normally and bleed the brakes..

I use a vacuum pump and pull the fluid thru the system adding fluid to the reservoir, until new stuff comes out the other end..

 

I'd just stick something in there to hold the piston so it doesn't come out too far. Like maybe put the pads in and find something the same thinkness as your rotor disc. When you got to put in place you can still push the piston back some. To bleed it you don't have to push really hard just enough to make the fluid flow.

Make sure you don't let the piston pop out of the caliper as then you'll have more work.