Army Vet. Needs Your Help
Jan 17, 2011 | 06:10 PM
#21
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Weekend Warrior
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 16
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From: Central, MA
From the wiring diagram I see that the quad does not use the common brake safety interlock to keep the starter from turing unless the brakes are applied. Instead it uses the neutral switch and/or the clutch switch to keep the starter from turning in a condition where it could take off unexpectedly.
There is a mistake in the diagram you posted. The starter solenoid in the diagram is wired to the wrong side of the clutch diode. The pink wire from the solenoid should be wired to the pink wire from the clutch switch (and clutch diode), not the way the diagram shows. The way the diagram shows cannot possibly work. No matter - this has nothing to do with spark.
Your assistant relay is wired into the clutch diode pink wire. The black wire is most likely switched 12 volts from the ignition switch. I don't know what it does yet. Look at all your quad connectors in the wiring harness. Is there a maroon wire anywhere? If so, what does this color wire connect to?
Your test results:
3) and 4) are suspicious. It is very unlikely that the ignition power winding in the stator is exactly tthe same resistance and the trigger voltage winding. You may want to recheck that.
5) This resistance is really high. Mine reads 0.3 ohms. This is suspicious.
8) This looks suspicious. It doesn't look like your CDI is putting out anything like the right voltages. Note that this pin looks suspicious and two counts. The coil resistance readings look high and the output voltage is wrong.
The rest of the readings look OK. The trigger voltage looks normal, and the AC ignition power voltage looks normal. What this says is that the stator is outputting the proper voltages from the power and trigger windings. But this doesn't match up with your resistance readings from the same two windings (3) and 4)). Something is not right. It would be worthwhile to remeasure these and see if we can get these readings to agree with each other and then maybe point the same way...
If your wiring diagram is accurate (well mostly accurate anyway) then your quad doesn't use the brake switch for any interlocks - starter motor or spark.
There is a mistake in the diagram you posted. The starter solenoid in the diagram is wired to the wrong side of the clutch diode. The pink wire from the solenoid should be wired to the pink wire from the clutch switch (and clutch diode), not the way the diagram shows. The way the diagram shows cannot possibly work. No matter - this has nothing to do with spark.
Your assistant relay is wired into the clutch diode pink wire. The black wire is most likely switched 12 volts from the ignition switch. I don't know what it does yet. Look at all your quad connectors in the wiring harness. Is there a maroon wire anywhere? If so, what does this color wire connect to?
Your test results:
3) and 4) are suspicious. It is very unlikely that the ignition power winding in the stator is exactly tthe same resistance and the trigger voltage winding. You may want to recheck that.
5) This resistance is really high. Mine reads 0.3 ohms. This is suspicious.
8) This looks suspicious. It doesn't look like your CDI is putting out anything like the right voltages. Note that this pin looks suspicious and two counts. The coil resistance readings look high and the output voltage is wrong.
The rest of the readings look OK. The trigger voltage looks normal, and the AC ignition power voltage looks normal. What this says is that the stator is outputting the proper voltages from the power and trigger windings. But this doesn't match up with your resistance readings from the same two windings (3) and 4)). Something is not right. It would be worthwhile to remeasure these and see if we can get these readings to agree with each other and then maybe point the same way...
If your wiring diagram is accurate (well mostly accurate anyway) then your quad doesn't use the brake switch for any interlocks - starter motor or spark.
For giggles I removed all of the casing around the wiring so it was all exposed. I wanted to trace what wire went where and make sure there weren't any premature/exposed grounds anywhere. But everything looks pretty good.
As for the Assistant Relay, It does indeed have the wires you described. The PINK wire goes to the clutch diode but it also splices just before the assistant relay and runs up to the clutch handle. Which is somewhat weird considering it pretty much bypasses the assistant relay. The MAROON wire runs from the assistant relay, back the starting silenoid. And the BLACK wire is one of 5 that splices into the one black running back to the rear brake light harness :/
But I'm off to the garage again
As always thank you so much for your help and sticking with me.
Jan 17, 2011 | 07:22 PM
#22
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Weekend Warrior
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Central, MA
I'm not sure if it makes me a masochist, but I've never been so pleased to feel the shocking pain of a spark-plug before lol. I honestly have no idea what I did to fix it, but when I finally hooked everything back up, I got a strong spark from the plug. There is a chance it may have been the battery, it wasn't really taking a charge from the trickle-charger. So I purchased a new battery, after buying EVERY other electric component ha ha. Once I take it for a spin, I will switch out every component, one by one and see which one was bad. Thank you again everyone for your assistance!
Jan 18, 2011 | 12:47 AM
#23
Electrical Expert
Likes High Voltage In The Tub!
Likes High Voltage In The Tub!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3,260
Likes: 14
From: Tracy, California, USA
I'm glad you're getting spark .
The assistant relay appears to me to be a bandaid fix of some sort. The starter solenoid actuating drive coil draws about 3.5 amps (which then switches about 40 amps to the starter motor). I wonder if this amount of input current was blowing up the clutch diode (or maybe it was the inductive kick back from the starter solenoid acuating coil), and the fix was to put another smaller relay to switch the bigger solenoid relay. It seems a dumb way to do things to me, but maybe I don't have the whole story.
I doubt it was the battery causing no spark though. Batteries have nothing to do with spark on an AC powerd ignition system.
.The assistant relay appears to me to be a bandaid fix of some sort. The starter solenoid actuating drive coil draws about 3.5 amps (which then switches about 40 amps to the starter motor). I wonder if this amount of input current was blowing up the clutch diode (or maybe it was the inductive kick back from the starter solenoid acuating coil), and the fix was to put another smaller relay to switch the bigger solenoid relay. It seems a dumb way to do things to me, but maybe I don't have the whole story.
I doubt it was the battery causing no spark though. Batteries have nothing to do with spark on an AC powerd ignition system.
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