9.2m to ground has me confused. Is this Megaohms? Milliohms? Millivolts?

The voltage readings for the gray and brown wires don't quite add up yet either, though I need the answer to the 9.2m question first. These windings have to do with keeping the battery charged, and not generating spark, so maybe we shouldn't get bogged down here. Maybe this is something to come back to after the spark is working. Initially I included them in the picture because sometimes supposedly non-related issues get interconnected in obscure ways, and a good technician shouldn't easily discount seemingly unrelated data.

20 volts AC on the white wire is not what I expected, but it is in line with others who have reported this voltage. So it looks like the ignition power coil in the stator is working. The ignition coil yanking the stator power around is typical in CDI systems - hence the requirement that the stator be measured while disconnected.

I'm still puzzled by the lack of a trigger pulse (present in every ignition system I've seen). Did you check to see if the ignition coil itself is mechanically mounted close to anything rotating that could couple in a trigger? I found some low resolution pictures of your engine on a scooter that seems to indicate that the coil is mounted outside the engine in no special place close to moving parts. If so then I am at a loss as to how the ignition timing is done. But you aren't complaining about timing issues. You aren't getting spark at all. I'm missing something. I'd like to be able to hook an oscilloscope up to one of these and find out what's going on, but this isn't practical in this situation. I'm left to just educated guesses.

Your ignition coil assembly is obviously more than just an ordinary ignition coil. What about your stator? When you look at your old stator is there anything in it other than two coils of wire mounted on a metal plate? Any electronic molded modules tucked away somewhere? I don't see anything suspicious on the internet pictures, but this isn't the same thing as tumbling the thing around in front of me.

If there is nothing special about your stator, and since you are reporting the same parameters (output voltage and resistances of the ignition power part), then the only thing left is the special ignition coil. I would replace it again, though I would try a different source. Sometimes bad batches of parts can fill a vendors warehouse - so ordering another from the same source won't solve anything.

 

I have come to realize the new coil I ordered was BAD so after many hours of posting and testing and ohming I Finally got the 2nd new coil I ordered. Now with new coil #2 installed low and frickin behold I have spark.

Houston we have yet another problem.

Will fire and idle with choke on. If I give it throttle it dies if i push choke lever in it dies.


I CAREFULLY took the carb apart and amazingly it was very clean inside. I removed the needle and seat cleaned with carb cleaner also removed and cleaned the idle and fuel screws. I cleaned the body of the carb itself and then reassembled.

I tried to adjust carb according to other posts that I found but cant get it right or I'm missing something.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Good afternoon, can you send a photo of the new spark plug coil you bought? I'm having the same problem...
Regards
Flávio Ferreira

 

Wiring diagram looks like the same ignition wise as the 2 stroke LT50 Suzuki. Suzuki call the ignition coil a combined coil and CDI. Still unsure how the stator coil doubles as a spark power and trigger, which threw Lyn Edwards, but most garden machinery uses a single "magneto" coil for all three things, power for spark, timing trigger and ignition coil.