I purchased a quad, ran the vin to see what it is, and found out that it was made in china and that's it. It has no spark and I would like to know what I have so I can work on it. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Vin: LHJSJK5456BC02037

Motor numbers:
1P57QMJ
*060622923*

 

150cc GY6 style engine. See the "sticky" post at the top of this subforum labeled "GY6 engine codes .. answered" for more info.

To troubleshoot no spark problems on a Gy6 engine we first need to find out if your CDI is DC powered or AC powered:

Generic procedure follows:

 

Thanks for offering your help, I don't have a battery so I can't check the dc volts with the key turned nor can I turn over the motor using electric start to check for ac volts. I have a battery charger if that would help ? Also the kill switch DOES have a wire to the pin. Not sure if it matters but I did get it to fire up a few times when I first got it, but died after a few seconds everytime. It is getting enough fuel I'm positive. Also is the choke electric ? And should I assume does not work without a battery ?

 

do not run the quad without a battery in it. so let's get this straight. when you first got the quad, you had it running. now, without a battery, it is not running due to a no spark condition, but you've verified fuel delivery is adequate? follow Lynn's advice, get the safety interlocks satisfied, get a battery and an ohm meter/multimeter, and we'll have you going in no time.

 

First I'm wondering if you really tested for "no spark" properly. A quad with "no spark" will not fire up a few times and die. It won't fire up at all.

Did you do this procedure for determining you don't have spark, or were you guessing?

I assume you are using a kickstart to turn the engine for your tests?

Don't use a battery charger to power a quad that is missing a battery. Most chargers don't put out a steady 12 volts DC. Instead they put out just rectified mains power (stepped down to 12 volts equivalent of course) which is always positive, but it pulses on and off at 120 times per second. That can cause all kinds of problems. Don't do it - you'll just get confused...

You can jump your car battery to the quad to provide 12 volts. Then do your voltage tests.

Caution: Take extra care to get the jumper cables polarity right, and make sure the jumper cables and/or quad battery cables won't short to ground while your messing around. Car batteries can put a whole lot of current into a short. So can quad batteries too, but if you screw up it might take 7 seconds to start a fire with one of those instead of 1.5 seconds with a car battery. The moral of the story is always be careful with car and/or quad batteries.

I don't know if you have an electric choke. Do you have wires going to your carburetor? If so, then you have an electric choke. But if you have one of these then keep in mind it will default to the "choked" state (i.e. cold starting state) when the engine is cold, and it will stay that way after the quad starts if you don't have a battery *and* you don't have a working battery charging system. So you're set up to the right condition for a cold engine. If your choke doesn't work the most common symptom would be an engine that starts fine but runs terrible after it warms up.

I'm actually being a bit fast and loose with the facts if someone wants to get technical. It's not really a choke in the classic way (i.e. a restrictor plate that chokes off air into the fuel/air mixture when applied). Instead it is really called a 'bystarter valve' which leaves the air passageway in the carburetor unobstructed, and instead opens up another fuel port to add fuel to the mixture when cold. It's the same thing really - you need an enrichened fuel air ratio when cold - so you can either starve the mixture of air, or add more fuel. A choke starves the fuel/air mixture of air, the bystarter valve instead adds fuel...

 

I checked the spark the way u described, no spark. I will hook it up to my car battery to do the tests later on today and will post my findings.

 

I checked the voltage and I'm getting 40-80 volts AC when it turns over. I should note the starter button doesn't work, or sadly I just can't figure it out (not many labels left to tell what does what). I used a screwdriver to complete the circuit on the solenoid.

 

I realized u said to touch the probe to the ground on the plug not the battery, I checked again but the readings were much higher, 130-160. Did I do something wrong ?

 

Wow. I always get very suspicious when I ask for a voltage that could be anywhere from 40 to 80 volts, and I receive an answer where you measured "40 to 80 volts". What???? . This makes no sense...

Different quad have different stators, though they all work on the same general principles. All CDI's need moderately high voltage to run, and the AC powered ones run on a range of voltages at cranking speeds. Thus to see if your stator is working I have to provide a range of voltages to cover all of the similar design, but slightly different, stators out there. So one quad design will measure 42 volts AC at cranking speeds (perhaps +/- 10%). Another will measure 76 volts AC. Another design will measure 56 volts AC.

But you measured 40 to 80 volts AC. I don't believe you. Your individual quad AC voltage will not vary that much at normal cranking speeds. What did you really measure? Accuracy is paramount to finding the problem...

Almost all chinese quads have a brake switch starter safety interlock system that prevents the start button from engaging the starter unless the brakes are applied.

Did you have the brake applied with the ignition on when you pressed the start button? Was the brake light lit up? Have you checked your main fuse near the battery?

 

This does not make sense. The ground pin on the CDI should connect directly to the negative battery post, and to engine ground too. SO the voltages should measure the same. The only reason that I have you use the CDI ground pin is because the measurement then also checks the ground wiring from CDI to the battery. But problems in the ground wiring would cause your voltage readings to go *down* - not *up*.

I suspect you're measuring voltages wrong. Make sure you're probing the right pins, and make sure you're on AC VOLTS on the 200 volt scale when measuring this.