Wildfire Kid 110 Quad Won't Start
#1
Wildfire Kid 110 Quad Won't Start
Got a Wildfire Quad from family. Was told ran fine. Of course no pull start so first things first, since it sat forever, replaced the battery. Still no start. Found a spider web ball in by the brake switch, removed, no start. Found the ignition had been jimmied with a screwdriver (they lost the key). Fiddled with that (new one just arrived today), got the engine to turn over using the start switch. Then suddenly, that didn't work as well. Found another spider ball in by the ignition relay. Tested the posts and trigger wires. Found no signal passing thru on switch engage. Was able to jump posts with a screwdriver (which got surprisingly hot) and got starter to spin up again. Compression is fine, but still no start. Have a new relay, CDI, voltage reg, and ignition coil on the way. Am I headed in the right direction or have I missed something?
I have been ordering my parts from redcat.com, but I seem to have an oddball engine with a manual choke and auto tranny. The choke cable end is broken so it doesn't move smoothly, and redcat doesn't carry this. Have suggestions on where to find the choke cable?
I have been ordering my parts from redcat.com, but I seem to have an oddball engine with a manual choke and auto tranny. The choke cable end is broken so it doesn't move smoothly, and redcat doesn't carry this. Have suggestions on where to find the choke cable?
#2
ok, so you've checked for spark as it is turning over/cranking? so now the brake switch works? that's one of the safety interlocks on an automatic kiddy quad. listen for the brake switch in the handlebar to make a "tink" sound. the brake light may or may not illuminate (bulb good or bad?). we're looking at the switch.
#3
Yup, the brake switch works, get the tink, light comes on, spring loaded parking brake holds (had to adjust to get it to engage switch). Haven't tested spark yet due to relay being out and heating issue. decided to wait for further testing til I can start it properly. Hence the extra parts i ordered in advance lol Figured, if I fried the ignition relay, good chance CDI and/or volt reg are fried or close.
Ignition key switch arrived today. relay (and other parts) should be here tomorrow or friday
Ignition key switch arrived today. relay (and other parts) should be here tomorrow or friday
#4
#5
good suggestion. will do. Posting early since kinda new to these and trying to make sure I'm headed in the right T/S direction. The heated screwdriver had me a bit baffled I admit. Combined with no start figured maybe a CDI overload and why I have a new one coming before even testing the spark
#6
got new parts in. Replaced ignition relay. Turns over with switch now. Still no fire, replaced, CDI, still nothing, replaced voltage reg, still nothing. Tested coil - got spark (or should say I got a good jolt )
Out of ideas.. what am i missing? Interestingly enough, the headlight does not come on unless I am cranking, then get a dim pulsing glow. (discovered this while the 5yr old was messing with switches while helping me) Shouldn't the headlight come on if the switch and ignition are on regardless of cranking or running status?
Out of ideas.. what am i missing? Interestingly enough, the headlight does not come on unless I am cranking, then get a dim pulsing glow. (discovered this while the 5yr old was messing with switches while helping me) Shouldn't the headlight come on if the switch and ignition are on regardless of cranking or running status?
#7
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
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The way to test for spark is to pull out the spark plug, reconnect it, and hold the threads of the plug against the engine block while cranking the starter motor. This should be done with the ignition on and all kill switches set to the run position. You should see regular sparks at 10 times per second at the normal cranking speed of 600 RPM.
The fact that you got a jolt isn't a good enough test. You could get jolted with 100 volts. But that won't come even close to jumping a spark plug gap. Do the proper test as per the above procedure and report back.
If you do have spark, then it points elsewhere - like fuel and/or compression. But if you don't see problems there then there are rarer electrical problems such as a bad plug that won't spark under compression, or CDIs that fire at random times instead of being fired wih the trigger pulse. But I would eliminate the sipler more common problems first.
The fact that you got a jolt isn't a good enough test. You could get jolted with 100 volts. But that won't come even close to jumping a spark plug gap. Do the proper test as per the above procedure and report back.
If you do have spark, then it points elsewhere - like fuel and/or compression. But if you don't see problems there then there are rarer electrical problems such as a bad plug that won't spark under compression, or CDIs that fire at random times instead of being fired wih the trigger pulse. But I would eliminate the sipler more common problems first.
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#8
Yup, was infact getting a gap jump spark and had tested just the way you said. It was poor handling that caused the jolt lol. Anyway, after all said n done finally got it started and purrs like a kitten. Turned out to be a dirty bowl and slightly plugged jet. Dismantled the carb, cleaned with carb n choke cleaner, reset gaskets and purrs like a kitten now. Needs a bit of a tweak tune to the carb for accel, but runs great now.
For giggles put old parts back in to see if the was actually an issue with them or just the carb. Relay was obviously bad, turned out cdi was as well so my gut was right with that one
Prob solved - close thread
For giggles put old parts back in to see if the was actually an issue with them or just the carb. Relay was obviously bad, turned out cdi was as well so my gut was right with that one
Prob solved - close thread
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