No spark coolster 110cc 1 of many thanks for looking
#1
05-27-2012, 12:45 PM
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No spark coolster 110cc 1 of many thanks for looking
History of coolster 110*
My grandson got a coolster 110 cc atv for Xmas 2011. It has been running good up until my son took it camping and left the keys and remote kill at home. He tried hot-wiring the 4 wire key switch, he disconnected the switch from the harness and finally figured which two wires would allow it to crank when the start button was pressed. He never disconnected the remote kill box when trying to start. What he said was that it sounded like it was going to start and then just made a pop sound. After that he found that he had no spark. This is where I come in and found this forum, I followed the generic 5 pin CDI no spark procedure and these are the results I recorded.
Disconnected my CDI and removed kill switch pin from connector. No spark.
Resistance from AC ignition pin to ground pin = 317 ohms
Resistance from timing/trigger pin to ground pin = 132 ohms
AC ignition power pin to ground pin = 41 VAC
Timing pin to ground while cranking = .133 VAC
Output of CDI
Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI = infinite open circuit
Plugged CDI back in with and without remote kill module attached to harness no AC voltage on coil pin to ground.
He put a high performance CDI in it and measured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI and that equaled almost 1 ohm.
Cranked the motor and then removed CDI and remeasured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI and that equalled infinite open circuit.
Measured resistance between the 2 coil wires green and black/yellow and got 0 ohms.
Any thoughts and help would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance.
My grandson got a coolster 110 cc atv for Xmas 2011. It has been running good up until my son took it camping and left the keys and remote kill at home. He tried hot-wiring the 4 wire key switch, he disconnected the switch from the harness and finally figured which two wires would allow it to crank when the start button was pressed. He never disconnected the remote kill box when trying to start. What he said was that it sounded like it was going to start and then just made a pop sound. After that he found that he had no spark. This is where I come in and found this forum, I followed the generic 5 pin CDI no spark procedure and these are the results I recorded.
Disconnected my CDI and removed kill switch pin from connector. No spark.
Resistance from AC ignition pin to ground pin = 317 ohms
Resistance from timing/trigger pin to ground pin = 132 ohms
AC ignition power pin to ground pin = 41 VAC
Timing pin to ground while cranking = .133 VAC
Output of CDI
Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI = infinite open circuit
Plugged CDI back in with and without remote kill module attached to harness no AC voltage on coil pin to ground.
He put a high performance CDI in it and measured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI and that equaled almost 1 ohm.
Cranked the motor and then removed CDI and remeasured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI and that equalled infinite open circuit.
Measured resistance between the 2 coil wires green and black/yellow and got 0 ohms.
Any thoughts and help would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance.
#2
05-27-2012, 10:09 PM
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My comments embedding blue...
History of coolster 110*
My grandson got a coolster 110 cc atv for Xmas 2011. It has been running good up until my son took it camping and left the keys and remote kill at home. He tried hot-wiring the 4 wire key switch, he disconnected the switch from the harness and finally figured which two wires would allow it to crank when the start button was pressed. He never disconnected the remote kill box when trying to start. What he said was that it sounded like it was going to start and then just made a pop sound. After that he found that he had no spark. This is where I come in and found this forum, I followed the generic 5 pin CDI no spark procedure and these are the results I recorded.
Disconnected my CDI and removed kill switch pin from connector. No spark.
Resistance from AC ignition pin to ground pin = 317 ohms [OK]
Resistance from timing/trigger pin to ground pin = 132 ohms [OK]
AC ignition power pin to ground pin = 41 VAC [OK]
Timing pin to ground while cranking = .133 VAC [OK]
Output of CDI
Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI = infinite open circuit [Totally Wrong (flag 1)]
Plugged CDI back in with and without remote kill module attached to harness no AC voltage on coil pin to ground. [Also wrong, but if the Ignition Output pin of the CDI measure open then this is to be expected.]
He put a high performance CDI in it and measured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI and that equaled almost 1 ohm. [OK, but this conflicts with your earlier results at (flag 1) above. If your coil primary measured through the wiring harness from the CDI connector measured "open" before, and now it measures "almost 1 ohm" then this doesn't make sense. Simply bringing another CDI nearby changing the resistance of something that isn't hooked up to the harness?
Please redo this test. You must measure the ignition coil resistance at the CDI output pin in the harness to ground with the CDI *disconnected*. What (if any) CDI is sitting nearby on the table doesn't matter a bit. Which is it? Do you measure open circuit, or do you measure "almost 1 ohm". And could you please be less vague? I'm pretty sure your meter did not have "almost 1 ohm" in its display
. What did your meter actually read? What scale?]
Cranked the motor and then removed CDI and remeasured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI and that equalled infinite open circuit.
Measured resistance between the 2 coil wires green and black/yellow and got 0 ohms. [So now we have three measurements for the same wires. Remeber that the CDI Ignition Coil pin of the CDI is supposed to be the same wire when it comes out at the ignition cooil. SO first it measure open, then it measures "almost 1 ohm", and now it measures zero ohms. It seems this is the place to start until we can get all the measurements measuring the same thing to agree with each other...
]
Any thoughts and help would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance.
My grandson got a coolster 110 cc atv for Xmas 2011. It has been running good up until my son took it camping and left the keys and remote kill at home. He tried hot-wiring the 4 wire key switch, he disconnected the switch from the harness and finally figured which two wires would allow it to crank when the start button was pressed. He never disconnected the remote kill box when trying to start. What he said was that it sounded like it was going to start and then just made a pop sound. After that he found that he had no spark. This is where I come in and found this forum, I followed the generic 5 pin CDI no spark procedure and these are the results I recorded.
Disconnected my CDI and removed kill switch pin from connector. No spark.
Resistance from AC ignition pin to ground pin = 317 ohms [OK]
Resistance from timing/trigger pin to ground pin = 132 ohms [OK]
AC ignition power pin to ground pin = 41 VAC [OK]
Timing pin to ground while cranking = .133 VAC [OK]
Output of CDI
Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI = infinite open circuit [Totally Wrong (flag 1)]
Plugged CDI back in with and without remote kill module attached to harness no AC voltage on coil pin to ground. [Also wrong, but if the Ignition Output pin of the CDI measure open then this is to be expected.]
He put a high performance CDI in it and measured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI and that equaled almost 1 ohm. [OK, but this conflicts with your earlier results at (flag 1) above. If your coil primary measured through the wiring harness from the CDI connector measured "open" before, and now it measures "almost 1 ohm" then this doesn't make sense. Simply bringing another CDI nearby changing the resistance of something that isn't hooked up to the harness?
Please redo this test. You must measure the ignition coil resistance at the CDI output pin in the harness to ground with the CDI *disconnected*. What (if any) CDI is sitting nearby on the table doesn't matter a bit. Which is it? Do you measure open circuit, or do you measure "almost 1 ohm". And could you please be less vague? I'm pretty sure your meter did not have "almost 1 ohm" in its display
. What did your meter actually read? What scale?]Cranked the motor and then removed CDI and remeasured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI and that equalled infinite open circuit.
Measured resistance between the 2 coil wires green and black/yellow and got 0 ohms. [So now we have three measurements for the same wires. Remeber that the CDI Ignition Coil pin of the CDI is supposed to be the same wire when it comes out at the ignition cooil. SO first it measure open, then it measures "almost 1 ohm", and now it measures zero ohms. It seems this is the place to start until we can get all the measurements measuring the same thing to agree with each other...
]Any thoughts and help would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance.
#3
05-28-2012, 10:03 AM
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Lynn thank you for your reply,
I was using an auto ranging meter.
The generic procedure was a bit confusing to me.
This is why I worded my test as Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI = infinite open circuit. This is the measurement I got. I was measuring the CDI itself!
He purchased a high performance CDI and measured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI, before we installed it and it did have low resistance(but we didn't write the value down, believe it was less than an ohm) sorry, kinda made a little sense that the perfectly new one had a different reading than the one that was removed from the ATV that wasn't working!
I also thought that it was odd that there was no testing of the coil itself that is why I Measured resistance between the 2 coil wires green and black/yellow! This is were I measured 0 ohms. ( I retested and still have 0 ohms.)
So what type of reading am I suppose to get on the CDI itself from pins ignition coil to ground pin? Seems I have two bad parts? Did the coil fry the new CDI?
Sorry for the confusion, I hope this clears it up. By reading the other posts I was trying to be as clear and complete as possible. This is why I tell my kids that texting SUCKS. And you also have to be very careful with emails
Thanks again, Neil
I was using an auto ranging meter.
The generic procedure was a bit confusing to me.
This is why I worded my test as Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI = infinite open circuit. This is the measurement I got. I was measuring the CDI itself!
He purchased a high performance CDI and measured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI, before we installed it and it did have low resistance(but we didn't write the value down, believe it was less than an ohm) sorry, kinda made a little sense that the perfectly new one had a different reading than the one that was removed from the ATV that wasn't working!
I also thought that it was odd that there was no testing of the coil itself that is why I Measured resistance between the 2 coil wires green and black/yellow! This is were I measured 0 ohms. ( I retested and still have 0 ohms.)
So what type of reading am I suppose to get on the CDI itself from pins ignition coil to ground pin? Seems I have two bad parts? Did the coil fry the new CDI?
Sorry for the confusion, I hope this clears it up. By reading the other posts I was trying to be as clear and complete as possible. This is why I tell my kids that texting SUCKS. And you also have to be very careful with emails
Thanks again, Neil
#4
05-28-2012, 11:55 PM
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Again comments in blue:
Lynn thank you for your reply,
I was using an auto ranging meter.
The generic procedure was a bit confusing to me.
This is why I worded my test as Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI = infinite open circuit. This is the measurement I got. I was measuring the CDI itself!
He purchased a high performance CDI and measured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI, before we installed it and it did have low resistance(but we didn't write the value down, believe it was less than an ohm) sorry, kinda made a little sense that the perfectly new one had a different reading than the one that was removed from the ATV that wasn't working!
I also thought that it was odd that there was no testing of the coil itself that is why I Measured resistance between the 2 coil wires green and black/yellow! This is were I measured 0 ohms. ( I retested and still have 0 ohms.) [Zero ohms is wrong. Your should be measuring fractions of an ohm (like 0.7 ohms), but not zero. But keep in mind that your meter must also be working properly at the low ohms scale. It is possible that your meter has an offset - i.e. it always reads low by some constant amount. Do you have another meter to compare with your first one?]
So what type of reading am I suppose to get on the CDI itself from pins ignition coil to ground pin? Seems I have two bad parts? Did the coil fry the new CDI? [CDIs should be considered black boxes that raw power in (whether that be moderately high voltage AC or 12 volts DC), and trigger signal, that output a sharp high frequency high voltage (a couple hundred volts) pulse to the ingition coil. There are a lot of different ways to go about that task, and so the CDI output pin internal impedance is undefined without knowing what circuitry is inside the CDI. On all the CDIs I've taken apart the resistance is open (infinite). But there could be other designs that measure different.
A shorted coil shouldn't blow up a CDI.]
Sorry for the confusion, I hope this clears it up. By reading the other posts I was trying to be as clear and complete as possible. This is why I tell my kids that texting SUCKS. And you also have to be very careful with emails
Thanks again, Neil
I was using an auto ranging meter.
The generic procedure was a bit confusing to me.
This is why I worded my test as Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI = infinite open circuit. This is the measurement I got. I was measuring the CDI itself!
He purchased a high performance CDI and measured the Ignition pin of CDI to ground pin of CdI, before we installed it and it did have low resistance(but we didn't write the value down, believe it was less than an ohm) sorry, kinda made a little sense that the perfectly new one had a different reading than the one that was removed from the ATV that wasn't working!
I also thought that it was odd that there was no testing of the coil itself that is why I Measured resistance between the 2 coil wires green and black/yellow! This is were I measured 0 ohms. ( I retested and still have 0 ohms.) [Zero ohms is wrong. Your should be measuring fractions of an ohm (like 0.7 ohms), but not zero. But keep in mind that your meter must also be working properly at the low ohms scale. It is possible that your meter has an offset - i.e. it always reads low by some constant amount. Do you have another meter to compare with your first one?]
So what type of reading am I suppose to get on the CDI itself from pins ignition coil to ground pin? Seems I have two bad parts? Did the coil fry the new CDI? [CDIs should be considered black boxes that raw power in (whether that be moderately high voltage AC or 12 volts DC), and trigger signal, that output a sharp high frequency high voltage (a couple hundred volts) pulse to the ingition coil. There are a lot of different ways to go about that task, and so the CDI output pin internal impedance is undefined without knowing what circuitry is inside the CDI. On all the CDIs I've taken apart the resistance is open (infinite). But there could be other designs that measure different.
A shorted coil shouldn't blow up a CDI.]
Sorry for the confusion, I hope this clears it up. By reading the other posts I was trying to be as clear and complete as possible. This is why I tell my kids that texting SUCKS. And you also have to be very careful with emails
Thanks again, Neil
#5
05-29-2012, 08:59 PM
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Rechecked with my fluke 87 from work and it reads .5 on 600 ohm scale. Also rechecked all other measurements all were slightly higher from my other fluke they are as follows now
Ac power Pin to ground was 317 now 318
Timing trigger to ground was 132 now 136.4
Ac ignition power pin to ground was 41 VAC now 45 VAC
Timing trigger to ground while cranking was .133 VAC now .221 VAC
CDI unplugged, ignition coil pin to ground pin .5 on 600 ohm scale
Plugged CDI back in meter on 60 VAC scale cranked with leads on Ignition coil pin to ground, reads 0.02 VAC with key on crank engine for 6 seconds stays at 0.02 VAC.
Repeated above steps 3 times and results were the same every time.
About the CDI being bad and the new one going bad, I don't know, this is why I am asking for your help! It certainly didn't blow up.
What is next? I certainly appreciate your time
Ac power Pin to ground was 317 now 318
Timing trigger to ground was 132 now 136.4
Ac ignition power pin to ground was 41 VAC now 45 VAC
Timing trigger to ground while cranking was .133 VAC now .221 VAC
CDI unplugged, ignition coil pin to ground pin .5 on 600 ohm scale
Plugged CDI back in meter on 60 VAC scale cranked with leads on Ignition coil pin to ground, reads 0.02 VAC with key on crank engine for 6 seconds stays at 0.02 VAC.
Repeated above steps 3 times and results were the same every time.
About the CDI being bad and the new one going bad, I don't know, this is why I am asking for your help! It certainly didn't blow up.
What is next? I certainly appreciate your time
#7
05-30-2012, 11:55 PM
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Comments in blue...
There is a remote possibility that the coil is bad. If there is a shorted turn inside that brings the inductance down to zero the resistance will measure OK but still not produce spark. This is less likely than two bad CDI's.
Here's an experiment to try:
Measure the AC ignition power voltage like you did before, but this time measure it with the CDI disconnected, and immediately after measure it again with CDI connected up. Make sure you do this with the ignition on and all kill switches set to the run position. What do ou measure?
This may give a clue as to whether the CDI is getting triggered.
Rechecked with my fluke 87 from work and it reads .5 on 600 ohm scale. [I assume this if the ignition coil primary resistance measure from the CDI Ignition coil pin? If so this is OK] Also rechecked all other measurements all were slightly higher from my other fluke they are as follows now
Ac power Pin to ground was 317 now 318 [OK]
Timing trigger to ground was 132 now 136.4 [OK]
Ac ignition power pin to ground was 41 VAC now 45 VAC [OK]
Timing trigger to ground while cranking was .133 VAC now .221 VAC [OK]
CDI unplugged, ignition coil pin to ground pin .5 on 600 ohm scale [OK - I now see this matches the 0.5 ohm measure in your first sentence above...]
Plugged CDI back in meter on 60 VAC scale cranked with leads on Ignition coil pin to ground, reads 0.02 VAC with key on crank engine for 6 seconds stays at 0.02 VAC. [This suggest the CDI is not getting triggered, but since your trigger voltage seems OK then this points to a bad CDI as the most likely problem.]
Repeated above steps 3 times and results were the same every time.
About the CDI being bad and the new one going bad, I don't know, this is why I am asking for your help! It certainly didn't blow up. ["Blow Up" is a bit of historic jargon. In the past (which I can unfortunately remember) electronics ran on vacuum tubes, high voltage, high current supplies. When things went wrong it was usually in a big way. You followed the smoke and/or shrapnel trail to the general vicinity of the problem. Often you could see things glowing red hot, and think to yourself: 'there's something wrong here'. And the thing that was red hot wasn't even permanently damaged. Today with semiconductor junction geometries approaching nano meters in size things electronic often don't expire with as much fanfare. If you violate key parameters they will silently expire without even a wimper. But we still say they "blew up".]
What is next? I certainly appreciate your time
Ac power Pin to ground was 317 now 318 [OK]
Timing trigger to ground was 132 now 136.4 [OK]
Ac ignition power pin to ground was 41 VAC now 45 VAC [OK]
Timing trigger to ground while cranking was .133 VAC now .221 VAC [OK]
CDI unplugged, ignition coil pin to ground pin .5 on 600 ohm scale [OK - I now see this matches the 0.5 ohm measure in your first sentence above...]
Plugged CDI back in meter on 60 VAC scale cranked with leads on Ignition coil pin to ground, reads 0.02 VAC with key on crank engine for 6 seconds stays at 0.02 VAC. [This suggest the CDI is not getting triggered, but since your trigger voltage seems OK then this points to a bad CDI as the most likely problem.]
Repeated above steps 3 times and results were the same every time.
About the CDI being bad and the new one going bad, I don't know, this is why I am asking for your help! It certainly didn't blow up. ["Blow Up" is a bit of historic jargon. In the past (which I can unfortunately remember) electronics ran on vacuum tubes, high voltage, high current supplies. When things went wrong it was usually in a big way. You followed the smoke and/or shrapnel trail to the general vicinity of the problem. Often you could see things glowing red hot, and think to yourself: 'there's something wrong here'. And the thing that was red hot wasn't even permanently damaged. Today with semiconductor junction geometries approaching nano meters in size things electronic often don't expire with as much fanfare. If you violate key parameters they will silently expire without even a wimper. But we still say they "blew up".]
What is next? I certainly appreciate your time
Here's an experiment to try:
Measure the AC ignition power voltage like you did before, but this time measure it with the CDI disconnected, and immediately after measure it again with CDI connected up. Make sure you do this with the ignition on and all kill switches set to the run position. What do ou measure?
This may give a clue as to whether the CDI is getting triggered.
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#8
05-31-2012, 09:44 PM
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My reply in orange With ignition on, kill switch wire removed and CDI disconnected I cranked and measured the AC power pin to ground and got 49.7 VAC with fully charged battery.
Installed CDI and cranked and got 26.3 VAC.
I found the following from one of your earlier posts dated 6-2-2011. I made this tester and verified it worked by touching the probes on my battery that resulted in one led lighting and then switching leads and the other led would light.
The following is from your earlier post
"This is a real puzzler...
You have AC power to the CDI, you have a ground to the CDI, and youv'e eliminated the kill switch issues by disconnecting the kill switch wire at the CDI. You get no voltage at all at the CDI output. This suggests that the CDI is not being triggered, or the CDI and/or coil is defective. You've changed the CDI and the coil from a working quad.
This leads back to the CDI not getting triggered. You measured 0.3 volts AC before. This is what makes this a puzzler.
I don't know how much your soldering skills are, or how much access to electrical parts you have, but below is a simple test fixture for measuring the trigger pulse to the CDI, and a plot of the voltage you would see on a working quad with an oscilloscope. Remember that this is a waveform that isn't really measured correctly by most meters, but meters are often all that is available.
Here is an easy test fixture:
Here is the actual voltage waveform:
Any old LED pair will work, but you do need both of them. Both LED's must flash for the CDI to work. One LED is "Arm", the other LED is "fire".
The waveform shows the voltage (vertical axis) plotted against time (horizontal axis). Notice the sharp spikes followed by lots of zero volts in between. Meters sort of muddle through this averaging the change in voltage over a long period.
The other possibility is that something isn't being measured right, thus leading to wrong conclusions. Double and triple check those readings ."
I hooked this up to the trigger and ground and neither led lit while cranking, without CDI connected and with connected.
Installed CDI and cranked and got 26.3 VAC.
I found the following from one of your earlier posts dated 6-2-2011. I made this tester and verified it worked by touching the probes on my battery that resulted in one led lighting and then switching leads and the other led would light.
The following is from your earlier post
"This is a real puzzler...
You have AC power to the CDI, you have a ground to the CDI, and youv'e eliminated the kill switch issues by disconnecting the kill switch wire at the CDI. You get no voltage at all at the CDI output. This suggests that the CDI is not being triggered, or the CDI and/or coil is defective. You've changed the CDI and the coil from a working quad.
This leads back to the CDI not getting triggered. You measured 0.3 volts AC before. This is what makes this a puzzler.
I don't know how much your soldering skills are, or how much access to electrical parts you have, but below is a simple test fixture for measuring the trigger pulse to the CDI, and a plot of the voltage you would see on a working quad with an oscilloscope. Remember that this is a waveform that isn't really measured correctly by most meters, but meters are often all that is available.
Here is an easy test fixture:
Here is the actual voltage waveform:
Any old LED pair will work, but you do need both of them. Both LED's must flash for the CDI to work. One LED is "Arm", the other LED is "fire".
The waveform shows the voltage (vertical axis) plotted against time (horizontal axis). Notice the sharp spikes followed by lots of zero volts in between. Meters sort of muddle through this averaging the change in voltage over a long period.
The other possibility is that something isn't being measured right, thus leading to wrong conclusions. Double and triple check those readings ."
I hooked this up to the trigger and ground and neither led lit while cranking, without CDI connected and with connected.
#9
06-01-2012, 12:15 AM
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There is conflicting info in your last post. You said the AC ignition power was 49.7 volts AC with the CDI disconnected, and 26.3 volts when it was connected. This suggests that the CDI is in fact getting triggered, or you have an internal CDI design that is different than the ones I've taken apart (and the assumptions I've made are incorrect).
You also said the trigger test indicator with to LEDs and a resistor worked on a battery (both directions) yet showed no trigger voltage (i.e. flashing LEDs) when cranking the engine. This indicates that the CDI is *not* getting triggered.
Repeat these tests again and see if you get the same results. In particular look at the trigger test fixture and make sure the LEDs just aren't too dim to see in bright sunlight. If you look at the posted waveform you'll see that the pulses are narrow and smaller in amplitude then the 12 volt battery voltage which is there all the time, and bigger. Put the quad in the shade, and cup your hands around the LEDs to further shade it. *Any* indication of light from the LEDs (both have to flash) indicates you have sufficient trigger voltage since LEDs will not conduct at all unless the voltage gets up to 1.8 volts peak (or so - depending on the LED color).
You also said the trigger test indicator with to LEDs and a resistor worked on a battery (both directions) yet showed no trigger voltage (i.e. flashing LEDs) when cranking the engine. This indicates that the CDI is *not* getting triggered.
Repeat these tests again and see if you get the same results. In particular look at the trigger test fixture and make sure the LEDs just aren't too dim to see in bright sunlight. If you look at the posted waveform you'll see that the pulses are narrow and smaller in amplitude then the 12 volt battery voltage which is there all the time, and bigger. Put the quad in the shade, and cup your hands around the LEDs to further shade it. *Any* indication of light from the LEDs (both have to flash) indicates you have sufficient trigger voltage since LEDs will not conduct at all unless the voltage gets up to 1.8 volts peak (or so - depending on the LED color).
#10
06-01-2012, 08:28 PM
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Performed all tests again and all results were the same. I also had the lights off in the garage when checking with the led's, still didn't see any lights.
Took the led tester to work and hooked it up to a regulated power supply. The minimum voltage it took to light them was 2.13 volts guess that explains not being able to see them.
So are you leaning towards the coil being faulty?
Our Part dealer for these chineese ATV's here in Chicago wants $45 for a new coil! Seems like a rip-off
Internet you can find them for $18 I guess, both have no gaurantee. Any thoughts, do you think they're the same?
Can the coil be tested further?
Thanks for the help.
Took the led tester to work and hooked it up to a regulated power supply. The minimum voltage it took to light them was 2.13 volts guess that explains not being able to see them.
So are you leaning towards the coil being faulty?
Our Part dealer for these chineese ATV's here in Chicago wants $45 for a new coil! Seems like a rip-off
Internet you can find them for $18 I guess, both have no gaurantee. Any thoughts, do you think they're the same?
Can the coil be tested further?
Thanks for the help.