you can scuff up the plastic with sand paper and slather jb weld all over it

 

ok so i finally got the valve adjustment done today. i got all back together and was thinking yay lets fire her up. and.....nothing after a few minutes of kicking i jumped the dead batt from the car and gave about 3-5 mins of turning over with nothing.....i can smell gas and all is how it was before..... i rechecked for spark and i have no spark at all.....i had spark before as ive got her started a few times in the past month and had the short vid of it running.....i looked at some other threads and looks like i can bypass the kill switch(es) by just pulling that 1 wire...

i just want to be sure i do it rite so here is a pic



so i just need to cut the top wire on the 2 plug side???? white and black on this quad????

and if i get spark and it fires then i go from there????????

 

well i was to impatient. i cut the wire and she fired asap electric and kick start. ran her down the road and parked. so what would be my next step to add a good kill start???? i was almost just thinking of adding an on/off switch on that wire i cut to go the easiest way.... what do you guys think????

 

so most things from here should be cosmetic. will still have updates posted

 

I was going to suggest that there are other things that can cause a "no spark" problem and address them all, but you were able to prove that this is a kill switch issue so now it is narrowed way down.

Get a meter and set it to measure resistance on the 20K ohm scale. Measure the resistance between the kill switch wire you cut looking into the wire harness side of the cut to ground. You will see that this is reading really low ohms (and probably zero ohms). Shorting the kill switch pin on the CDI to ground via the wire harness is how the spark gets killed.

Now turn all your kill switches to the "run" position. You could have up to four of them (but you may not have them all):

1) On half of the two pole ignition switch
2) The left handlebar kill switch
3) A tether pull cord switch
4) A remote kill module.

Does your kill switch wire looking into the wire harness still read low or zero ohms to ground (i.e. shorted to ground)?

If so then unplug each of the kill switches until the short goes away. When the short goes away you've found the faulty device. Remember that spark is enabled when the kill switch wire is disconnected. So you migrate towards that goal by disconnecting wires, never by shorting wires together. I only say this because many have got a stuck (and completley wrong) idea that you can only turn on spark by shorting wires together. It's backwards from that.

So disconnect the ignition switch. Does the short go away?

Disconnect the entire left handlebar switch assembly. Does the short go away?

Disconnect the tether pulll cord wiring from the wiring harness (think "wires" to the "wire harness", not the pull cord itself). Does the short go away?

Unplug the remote kill module. Does the short go away?

There is also the possibility that the wiring harness itself has somewhere pinched the kill switch wires and shorted it to ground. This is much less likely than the above devices, but if you find this is the case (the kill switch wire is still shorted even after unplugging all the kill switch devices) then we can fix this too. But this is getting too far ahead...

Let me know what you find.

 

yeah i will start to go through the kills maybe later today or during later in the week perhaps. i didnt look back to see if i mentioned this before......there is a kill on the left brake and right brake on the bar.....i followed thoes wires down and they are wrapped up together bare wire.... previous owner not me.... i will start there taking them apart...if works will heatshrink em...if not ill just snip 1 at a time to see if it is either of em....ive got no problem soldering n all...even if i have to disconnect the brake kills ect....as long as i can get the push button kill switch to work ill be happy.....that last vid as you saw pulled the plug with a lil shock, lol. ill figure it out....

big thanks for the help so far......would proly be sitting non startable easy still without it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ill be back with results soonish

 

There is no such thing as a brake kill switch. Think about it... There is no situation where you want to kill spark or enable spark with the brakes. When you want the engine to stay running you want it to stay running whether or not the brakes are applied.

There is however a safety interlock that will not allow you to crank the starter motor (with the start button) unless the brakes are applied (using the brake switches as sensing devices). This interlock is very much like the safety interlock on cars that won't let you start up the car in drive. The idea is that the quad is guaranteed to stay put (because the brakes are applied) *before* the starter motor is allowed to turn.

Starter motors turning, and ignition systems making spark are two independant systems that have nothing to do with one another. Your spark *kill* switches will only involve the four possibilities mention in my last post.

This is not a good way to kill an engine. When you yank that plug wire off, all the energy stored in the ignition coil has to go somewhere, and the voltage will rise on the ignition coil output until it finds a way to leap to ground. In your case it lept through you. Normally it safely finds the small gap on the spark plug electrodes. But if it doesn't find a path it will make one, and that may be by leaping back from the ignition coil secondary to the primary punching through the potted insulation compound inside the coil. This damages the insulation, forms internal carbon paths and will eventually lead to ignition coil failure. Don't do this...

Instead find your pickup coil trigger signal from the stator. There is a connector at the stator where you can unplug this. This is a good way to kill the engine (by unplugging this signal). It is low voltage as well, so you won't get zapped.

BTW, the kill switch wiring has fairly high voltage on it too whenever the engine is running or cranking (and not killed by grounding the kill switch pin). This pin (up to 300 volts at high engine speed) is current limited and not is damaged at all when grounding it (since that is how you kill the spark), but the current limit value is more than enough to knock you on your butt, so be careful.