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My plan was to ring/ohm out the entire wiring harness but I would prefer to have a schematic. I'm having a hard time figuring out if there is a bad component or a condition that the CDI doesn't like therefore not giving it spark. The motor turns over no problem, low compression, but it turns so if I can get a spark I'll pull the motor and rebuild it.
Additional note: handlebar tether kill switch is removed and there was no handheld kill switch for the parents to shut it down. Not sure if that info helps but since I don't know how this is wired it's a little tough to know if these have been removed, jumpered, spliced, etc...
Someone put up a diagram on here for a Tao Tao 125 yesterday, not guaranteed to be the same, but probably going to be close. https://atvconnection.com/forums/3-g...tao-125-a.html Tao Tao seem to use "standard" Honda colours anyway. Blue/white trigger coil, red/black power for CDI, green earth, black/white kill, yellow/black ignition coil. See the "help diagnose stator" sticky at the top of this page for tests.
I saw that Merryman but I wasn't sure of the accuracy so I appreciate the heads up. I'll check it out and report back once I get another minute in the garage.
Follow up question, if I unplug the shut down wire from the CDI that should disable the shutdowns and send a signal for spark? If that is true then I can start to diagnose the individual components is what I am thinking. That schematic seems to match another I found that is slightly clearer.
I have attached it but please note, I found this online and have not confirmed it matches what I have so please don't get nuts on me. I am trying to figure this out...
Follow up question, if I unplug the shut down wire from the CDI that should disable the shutdowns and send a signal for spark? If that is true then I can start to diagnose the individual components is what I am thinking. That schematic seems to match another I found that is slightly clearer.
I have attached it but please note, I found this online and have not confirmed it matches what I have so please don't get nuts on me. I am trying to figure this out...
I believe your theory is correct. Removing the shut down wire from the CDI will prevent any of the kill switches from grounding out the CDI, which will not allow the CDI to not send the stator generated power on to the ignition coil. I realize that double negative sentence is phrased strangely. Couldn't think of a better way to get the point across. Just throwing my two cents in but are you sure the CDI is good? In my experience, they go bad quicker than the stator and coil
You can test out the black/white by ohming it out at the CDI plug. With ignition off, that wire should be earthed, with ignition on, not earthed. Just to be awkward some makers (eTon) do it the other way round but my point stands, open circuit with key in one position closed in the other. That is why I recommend the stator sticky. Tells you if stator coils are good and checks wires to CDI. If all tests out right it is probably a CDI fault, I usually swap ignition coil anyway as it is cheaper than CDI and can go back on shelf if it doesn't fix the problem.