I would still try to adjust the valves.

I've read over and over about hard to start 110cc quads that are fixed by simply adjusting the valves. It is easy to do, so it is worth a try .

 

A bad connection at the solenoid could cause sparks while attempting to start, but it will not drain the battery. A bad connection blocks current from the battery, a short that drains current from the battery.

A fully charged 5 amp-hour battery should be able to crank the starter for a long time:

5 amp-hours = 300 amp-minutes [5 AH * 60 min/hour]
300 amp-minutes = 18000 amp-seconds [300 AM * 60 sec/min]

Starter motors draw roughly 40 amps

Battery life in seconds (cranking time) = 18000 amp-secs/40 amps =
450 seconds or 7.5 minutes.

These are ball park figures. In reality as the battery drains down to 10% charge the peak output current drops below the needed starter current level and the starter stalls. So the real life cranking time should be maybe 6 minutes, but that is still a long way off from 20-30 seconds .

As Jaster94 said - never charge these tiny little batteries at anything more than 2 amps. If you use a standard auto battery charger at typical 10 amps setting you will ruin the battery.

 

Welcome to the forum IDARider!

Start out by getting a NGK C7HSA and gapping it to .028..

It sounds like youve got the jets clean..but when you took the carb apart.... did you remove the fuel screw and spray carb cleaner in its hole? following up with compressed air is a good idea too.. Carbs have very small holes in them... old gas clogs those little holes..

If none of this helps...Id check the valves..

 

Hello again, another question after still not getting it to start (see previous posts), I have cleaned the carb 3 times now, and not sure where I could get that thing any cleaner... anyways I have one manual that says hold the front brake to start it... so I have been doing that when trying to start it, in fact if I am not holding the front brake (on the right hand side) the starter won't even turn it over.

THEN I have a second manual that says hold the foot brake to start it... does it matter which brake I am holding, do I have to hold both? Would it crank over but not start because I am not pushing down on the rear brake? I would go check it now but I am not with it for a few days...

Thanks

 

so holding the front brake makes no difference? holding the rear brake allows the starter/engine to turn over?

 

I did some work ona 110cc and found that the drain hose coming off the air box was melted closed which in turn flooded the box and chocked it out and wouldnt start.
Also check the kill switch located next to the tail light, make sure that that switch makes up.......I worked trying to get the thing started for a friggin hour before I found that dang thing !! LOL

 

the jets have little orifices in them. like MWQ stated, blow carb cleaner and compressed air to clear them.
as far as the brake interlock: it's usually just the handlebar switch. but like stated, yours may be different.

let us know.

 

Will do... on the carb cleaning, I have cleaned it out so all those holes are perfectly clean... do I need to remove the fuel mix screw and clean it out as well? If so, that is capped -- theres no was to unscrew it, I saw a video saying you just need to take that cap out and underneath is a flat head screw to adjust it, but they are regulated now so that is why there is a cap on it... anyways, is that correct and should I remove it to clean it out? Could that be what's causing my fuel not to get to the engine?

Thanks for all of your help - you all are great!

 

definitely remove the cap and remove the fuel screw to clean the carb...after cleaning start at 2.5 turns out from seated.. and if you want put the cap back on..

if I was a betting man...Id bet its set at 1 turn or less now..