97 honda trx 300 fw Im trying to determine whether I need to pull out the mechanical clutch. Clutch is slipping in higher gears. No adjustment left. I have removed the centrifigal clutch. The shoes are about 1.25mm, which is under the 2mm change point. There is some groving of the outer clutch housing, but not bad. Do you guys think only changing the shoes will solve my slipping problem or should I go into the mechanical clutch as well. Also, can anyone explain the specific function of each clutch. Thanks!

 

I think you found your problem.
The centrifical clutch expands and grabs at about 1700 rpm, and providespower to the outer basket of the drive clutch, it in turn moves power to the gears.
The drive clutch is engaged the whole time...except during shifting gears. Then the action of lifting the shift lever, or stepping on it, disengages the drive clutch, no matter what the rpm is. This takes the load off the gears and shafts, so the gears can change. You can verify this your self. Just hold the shift lever down , while in gear, and youll notice you can rev the motor. Make sure the revs come back to near idle before releasing the lever.

 

Thanks Hondabuster for the info. Are you saying that the principle job of the mechanical clutch is to facilitate gear shifting? I have not had any problems shifting so I would think that I don't need to go into the Mechanical clutch if this is correct. I take it that you are refering to the mechanical clutch when talking about the drive clutch. Is that correct. Thanks again!

 

Yep. There are two clutches, the centrifical one,(which allows the motor to idle in gear, and provide progressive engagement, so stalling is almost imposible) and the one in the basket, and with multi plates of friction material, and plain steel plates(which is always firmly engaged, unless the clutch is out of adjustment, or the shift lever is moved). The movement of the shift lever, by linkage, moves those plates apart, and disconnects the power flow. Releasing the shift lever back to the spring loaded center position, reengages the plates.Those plates on an auto clutch motor rarely go bad...unless its seen alot of abuse, such as revving it up, with the shifter depressed,holding the revs high and releasing. Its also posible to glaze those clutches, with moly, by using the incorrect oil, or adding aditives to the oil (like slick 50 and stp and others). Make sure the oil meets motorcycle motor guidlines...like having the MA in the rating, and no star burst enery conserving label. Theres a link between using moly, and clutch slippage. If it says made for wet clutch, or safe for wet clutch, its the right oil.
Id just replace the centrifical clutch , and adjust the plate clutch, and go from there. Im sure that will fix the problem.
Make sure you dont do any starting from a dead stop, in any gear higher than 2nd, and the new clutch should outlast the motor.
Welcome to the forums.

 

Thanks again Hondabuster! I believe im now clear on the purpose of the mechanical clutch.