I just changed the air filter in my LT80, I took the gas tank off and the steering cover. Once I put everything back together, the start button does not do anything. I can't start the quad electrically. I have a pull start and that worked but no electrical start.

When I took the steering cover off, I left it hanging from the the ignition switch wires. I ran a continuity test on the start/stop switch and the ignition switch and neither had continuity. I also ran a continuity test from the brake switch and that did have continuity.

I started to fiddle around with wires all over the quad to see if any were torn. Didn't find any torn but after I moved wires around in the back of the quad, it did start electrically once. Then, when I tightened everything up, didn't work again.

I ordered a cheap ignition switch for $10 on amazon and if that doesn't work, I'll just return it.....but wondering if anyone has any input. I'm a female and eager to learn how to work on ATVs.

I have another issue as well....

When the petcock is left on, fuel leaks from the carb. I pulled the carb off and found that there's a piece missing. There's suppose to be a cap inside the carb that goes near the main jet. I ordered a new OEM cap, to see if that's the issue. I also ordered a carb re-bulid kit to see if that'll fix it as well.

The quad no longer starts with the pull start, I wonder if there's too much fuel in the engine and that's why I can't get it started.

If anyone can shed any light on my issues, I'd appreciate it.

 

On all but early LT80s there is a button under the RH rear wheelarch. If you overload the starter, it cuts power to it until you press the button to re-set it. The reason you have overloaded it, is probably because you have filled the engine with fuel and "hydraulically locked" it. Make sure the ignition is off, remove the spark plug, and spin the engine over on the pull start, you will probably get a lot of fuel flying out of the plug hole. Be careful, I have set two on fire due to a spark catching this fuel alight. When fuel stops coming out, dry the bike and the plug, re-fit it, and try to start.

The fuel tap should have RUN, RES(erve) and PRI(me) on it. Prime is only for use when filling an empty carb, if you leave it on prime you will get an engine full of fuel. Some bikes have been modified and only have run, res, and off taps, these must be switched off after you stop the engine, and on before you start it again or you will get an engine full of fuel.

 

To add, put a rag over the plug hole to catch the fuel spray.
That rubber thing you ordered, we throw them away. It isn't the problem and usually gets crushed and covers the jet.
I add a cheap on/off valve close to the motor. When done riding you shut it off and run the carb dry. Next time you ride, when the fuel is turned on, it washes the sticky stuff (usually caused by ethanol fuel) off the needle and seat. Flooding has been a big problem since ethanol.
If the motor isn't hydro-locking, I'm thinking maybe a ground problem is why the no spin.

 

I installed the new ignition switch and now it's turning over. I'm going to rebuild the carb and see if the flooding continues. The bike does have a different petcock, looks like the previous owner clogged the vacuum line on the carb and the petcock.

I'll post again in a few days with an update.