The green light is on(neutral) I press the start button and at the same time the green light goes out so it will not start. (I can here a small sound like a starter trying to engage)I let go of the start button and the green light comes back on. I can pull start with no problem. I turned the lights on while I was checking it out and I pulled the front brake in to stop and headlights dimmed really low. I tried that same thing again and the got the same results again. I do not have a service manual. I think it maybe the starter, or maybe a wire issue there in the handlebar, but I'm not sure. I don't want to spend money on a new starter if I don't have to. Any help would be great.


Kevin

 

Sounds like the starter...before you buy a new one check to see if you con get a starter kit. Be sure the battery has a good connection. Just because your lights work doesn't mean there's enough juice for the starter. If you've got a charger that will let you jump it off...try it. i had a Honda that gave me the same problem and took the starter off and apart to find the bushing/brushes were burnt and almost gone. I cleaned them up and put it back together and it worked fine for about a year. Good luck.

 

Do you hear a clicking/buzzing noise? This is usually the starter selenoid. If the battery is low on juice , you have a bad/dirty connection OR the selenoid is bad you just hear a clicking/buzzing noise and the starter does not operate.

If you follow the positive cable (red one) off the battery. It should go to a small box that has another large wire connected to it that goes to the starter. Several other wires will come out the top and go the to the ignition and neutral switch. There should be a 30amp fuse here under a little cover and if this connection is dirty clean it. It may be under the right rear fender well if you are sitting on the machine.

If this all checks out remove your battery and trickle charge it (2-6amps) for about 12hours and check the charge between the pole with a volt meter. Should be 12-13volts. Let the battery sit for about 6 hours and recheck with a volt meter. YOu should get a reading very close to your original reading. IF it drops dramatically sitting there replace it.

I will look in my service manual to verify where the starter selenoid is located and get back to you if you need it. I think I have the wiring deagram scanned into the computer for the 250 and I can email it to you if you PM me an address.

Hope this helps

SJ

 

Thanks,
That would be great if you could send that wire print to me via e-mail. My email is klb5245@yahoo.com. I am getting ready to check the battery again, it is only about a month old, back some weeks ago it got down into the teens and killed the old one. I can hear a real faint sound, but it doesn't sound like the starter. I am going to check the relay and that fuse and maybe pull the starter next weekend when I have more time to mess with it. I will keep you posted. I will be out of town for the next two weeks on business, it will have to wait until I get back. Of all things my company is sending me to school on one of the new helicopters to learn it's systems. Maybe you have heard of the EC-135? That is what I do fix BK-117 & EC-135 helicopters for a living not ATVs, but I think I can manage with some assistance from you guys.

Thanks again,
Kevin

 

Well, I just checked the battery and it is putting out 12 volts. I turned the key to check the lights and then I pushed the start and it fired right up. So there must be wire issue somewhere. Will keep you posted on my finds in the coming weeks.


Kevin

 

Starter is fine, Starter solenoid is fine also. I can not fine the 30 amp fuse anywhere on the frame where the book says it should be. How can I check the neutral start relay? I do not have a wire print to go by? Anyone have one they whould share?

 

Sorry Kevin, I thought I had sent you a wiring diagram for a 250? I just sent it to the email you gave me.

Looking in the service manual I have I do not see a test procedure for a neutral relay on a 250 just a 400 and 500.

SJ

 

From looking at your post again and what you have tried I am leaning towards a bad starter selenoid OR bad wire connections at the battery. It looks like you have already eliminated the battery and cleaned your battery connections. So it leaves one thing.

I think the little black selenoid has two large wires connected to it (both red) and a plug connected at its top. Last one I replaced was $30 or so. This thing makes a loud click or buzz when it tries to engage but cannot.

Last one I replaced I trouble shot like thie: I connected to the starter side of the selenoid my volt meter set to 12V and grounded it out. Reading initally was 0.00 then I turned the key on and had my daughter hit the start button. The selenoid make a loud CLICK and the volt meter jumped to 1.23 and then back to 0.00. It should have benn something near 12V coming from the battery and going to the starter. I performed this same test in neutral and in gear with the hand brake depsessen (start in gear feature). Same thing each time.

After replaceing the selenoid it fired right up. So I never put the volt meter back on to see wht the volts should be.

SJ

 

Starter Relay
(250/300)
RESISTANCE
1. Disconnect the battery; then verify that the
ignition fuse is good. Disconnect all wires from
the solenoid.
2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.
3. Connect the tester leads to each of the heavy posts
of the solenoid.
4. The meter must show an open circuit.
!NOTE: Leave the tester leads connected to the
solenoid posts for the following procedure.
!NOTE: An external 12-volt power supply
“jumper” (positive and negative connections)
must be used for this test. Also, it is very important
that the meter leads and power supply connections
are made to the appropriate terminals of
the relay or damage to the multimeter will result.
5. Connect the power supply leads to each small
terminal of the solenoid. There should be an
audible “click” from the relay, and the meter must
show less than 1 ohm.
!NOTE: If there was no audible “click” from the
relay or if the meter shows more than 1 ohm, it
must be replaced. If there was a “click,” continue
to test resistance.
6. With the 12-volt power supply still connected,
connect the red tester lead to the heavy battery
cable terminal; then connect the black tester lead
to the heavy starter motor cable terminal.
7. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.
8. With the 12-volt power supply disconnected,
connect the tester leads to each small terminal of
the solenoid.
9. The meter must show 4.3 ohms ± 20%.
!NOTE: If the meter shows no resistance, the
relay is out of tolerance or it must be replaced.