I'm sure this has been asked before, but I checked the faqs and it is not there, so here goes.....I just bought a 375 4x4 and I've got about 34 miles on it. After break-in, I'm looking at using Mobil 1 oil, but I'm new to motorcycle engines and trannys and I want to hear from those with experience before I do. I've used Mobil 1 automotive oil in my vehicles for years and have had excellent experience with it. That's why I want to use it in my Cat.

1. At how many miles should I consider the break-in complete?

2. Are there any issues with using this oil in an auto?

3. Any other tips?

Mobil claims to have the right chemical package for wet clutches and motorcycle engines, but I just wanted to hear from people with AC machines who might have experience in this area.

Thanks!

 

Dan,
<< I'm looking at using Mobil 1 oil, but I'm new to motorcycle engines and trannys and I want to hear from those with experience before I do. >>
OK..
<<I've used Mobil 1 automotive oil in my vehicles for years and have had excellent experience with it.>> Me too. <<That's why I want to use it in my Cat.>>
I use it in my prarie 650, truck, V star 650, & Royal Star 1300, in the prarie, & both Yamaha street bikes I use the red cap 15-50 auto oil, make sure that it does not say super syn..they recently changed the formula, the old tri syn is the one you want, basicially they found out the folks who had street bikes were using the auto oil & not having any clutch problems, & changed the additive package, put a pic of a bike on it & charged a couple of bux more for it. it may be the same thing, but you are looking for something that does not say energy conserving on the bottle. (for a wet clutch anyway)

<<1. At how many miles should I consider the break-in complete?>>
my prarie said 60 miles or 10 hours, I don't know what the cat manual says..

<<2. Are there any issues with using this oil in an auto?>>
after some research, I will use the red cap, probally what I can get, in the prarie, it is an auto, by that I mean that it does have a driven & drive gear shaft with a high, low & reverse gears meshed, since it does not have a wet clutch, like the motorcycles, any changes in the additive package for that purpose seem not to be an issue.
It IS AN ISSUE on the street bikes that have a wet clutch, though. I am looking further into this to see what my options are. If I can continue to find the old style red cap I'll run it, if not, I'll see about something else. there was not that much diffrence between the v twin oil & the old style red cap except 3-4 bux a qt. (the auto red cap was about 4.25 Qt.)

<<3. Any other tips?>>
the gurus tell me that once you switch to synth, stay with it. the biggest killer of viscosity in oils is a wet clutch, gearbox, becuase the primary gear is chewing up the viscosity of the oil, as well as the drive & driven shafts that are constant mesh. the auto or cvt trannys don't have the wet clutch, but do have the gear shafts.

<<Mobil claims to have the right chemical package for wet clutches and motorcycle engines, but I just wanted to hear from people with AC machines who might have experience in this area.>>

I don't have a AC, but Do have a Prarie with a CVT auto, & a Yamaha V star 650(v twin wet clutch Street bike), & a Yamaha Royal Star (v 4 1300 cc Wet clutch street Bike) I use the mobil 15-50 in all of them, & have for the last 17K miles in the royal star, with NO clutch problems, I ride the bikes harder than I ride the quads..

Of course your machine may be diffrent..

 

I think after the break-in I'm going to go ahead and run with Mobil 1 4 stroke motorcycle oil in 10w40 (AC's recommended weight). Thanks Surveyor for the info. There's always someone out there spreading horror stories about why you shouldn't run synthetic. I've had similar experience as you. In fact, I have a Jeep Wrangler with 135,000 miles on it (4cyl) and the compression recently was tested and met specs for brand new. It has had Mobil 1 since 1,000 miles.

I like the idea of synthetic oil in this motor for several reasons: runs cooler, less wear, no sludge, cold weather starting, and higher temperature protection. I'm pretty sure no one has better technology than Mobil 1. I've talked to a couple friends who are mechanics on Indy car teams and they say Mobil leads the way.

 

I had the same worried about using auto oil until I checked this out:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

I've been running Castrol GTX 10-40 in my 375 for the last 100 miles with no ill effects. After asking several motorcycle guys what they used (regular auto oil) I've decided to use a good auto oil... Until I have proof that there is a real difference between motorcycle and auto oil.
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TG,
2 thoughts, in the motorcycle world.. (I read the article in a diffrent variation about 2 years ago)

1) run the synth oil since it does not break down as much, a good filter, napa or wix, since I'm running it in a street bike application on a $$$$$ machine. I know folks who change oil at recomended intervals(6K) with over 100K on their bikes.. me I change it at about 3K or so..just particular about it..not bad, or good, just me.

or:
2) run a fleet oil (rotella, delo) since it has no additivites for clutch slip, and is high in phosphorus, but change it sooner (1K miles) I know folks who have 60K on their bikes who run this. (and a lot of milage on deisels & fleet vehicles)

both of these meet the specs for motorcycles as far as grades & viscosity..both have had good sucess by the folks that subscribe to them.

the only thing is in a bike, you leave the oil in longer, so it breaks down more..
in a quad, mine says to change it at 1K, so anything really will work..

the fleet oils are about a buck a qt.
synth (auto) is about 4.25 qt.
branded oil (I know yamalube is about same as synth price wise)
I really don't save any money, but it is more convienient.

I probally don't need to run it(synth) in my quad & truck, but since I don't get wet, ride in real dusty conditions, If I slightly exceed the milage for oil changes,(I run my truck at highway service intervals, not city intervals) I really won't worry. The real thing is preference, if you read all the info out there, you'll be able to make a choice..street bikes ARE harder on oil though, mainly gearbox & clutch setup.

the only diffrence I can see between base oil & synth is viscosity breakdown, as well as some of the additive packages. I know folks who swear by amsoil, but I'm not leaving any oil in my street bike that long to justify the cost.

it is a scam to get folks to buy more expensive oil, that is really the same as what is labeled for a diffrent application..in the specs for my prarie, I could run just about anything..specs are specs..same thing as folks who run high test gas when they really don't need to..run jest enough octane to deter detonation..it is cheaper, will cause less carbon buildup, runs cooler, etc..


Thanks for the link..

 

I went through the oil thing when I bouht my new Cat, and did some research.

1. As far as conventional oils go Castrol wins, hands down.


2. MX4T is a great oil, even at $7 a quart


3. Running conventional oil and changing it regularly will more than likely make your Cat outlast you.

4, For the best of both worlds, do what I do: Run Castrol Syntec Blend. It gives you the best conventional oil and some of the advantages of synthetics, with little worry about the "wet clutch issue."


I ride often and ride hard, and believe that my little 250 will be handed down to my grandchildren.

 

Since mine is an automatic, will motorcycle oil designed for wet clutches have any disadvantages, or will they be ok?

 

just a note:
some of the motorcycle guys I deal with have run the new super syn in wet clutch bikes for 900 miles so far without any clutch slip (mobil 1 15-50)

 

Well, I purchased a few quarts of Mx4T today. I would have gone with automotive synthetic Mobil 1, but it did not come in 10W 40 as specified by AC. I figured there was no risk and I'd get all the benefits of Mobil 1.

I did notice, however, that when I checked the dipstick after 56 miles, the oil looked brand new? I almost question if the first 50 miles is too soon, even though it is break-in. If the filter is any good, there shouldn't be any problem with going a bit longer, right?

Also, anyone know where I can cross-reference the AC oil filter?
I'd like to buy a purolator filter, if possible. (I won't go anywhere near a Fram).

 

the MAIN reason to change the oilafter break in is to get the metal filings out of it. during the maching process, & break in of the gears, rings, piston, cylinder, all lubricated parts, is that they polish themselves with the other wear surfaces, this means there is metal in the crankase, diff, etc. a oil & filter change flushes most of this grit out of there.