I'v been having a problem with my 1982 185s. It started out reving really high when I started it up and then dying out shortly after that. Then after a little adjusting of the "throttle needle" (or whatever it's called), the idle adjust and the small needle valve on the uderside of the carb next to the "bowl" and an aftermarket carb kit it stopped reving and dying out. Now what is happening is that I can start it up and have it idle fine, but after running it for 30 minutes or longer it kills and won't restart. Like it's flooding and and obviously it's fouling the plug. Also I can only run it on half choke. If I put the choke either all the way on or off it dies right away. I went to another forum where a guy had similar problems and they rcomended a new "jet set" kit which it sounds like is really hard to come by now. Will this fix the problem, and if so does such a kit exist anymore even? One fella from the other forum seemed to think there was only a '79 kit available. If that is the case, would it work? Kinda sounds like it, but want to be sure. Also, exactly which "jet" are they refering to? I'm guesing it's one of the three I described but I'm not sure which one. I mean, it's obviously not the idle adjust. My pop is a mechanic and he suggested getting specs to adjust the float and get a higher quality spark plug. However, I have no idea where to find carb specs since I don't have a manual and he hasn't worked on atv's a whole lot so I want to be sure of what I'm doing before I buy anything. Thanks in advance for any input.

 

My first recommendation when fooling with these 20+ year old carbs are to replace it with a new one if you plan on keeping your three wheeler for any long amount of time. They can be had for under $200 and are worth alot more than that considering the time involved in keeping up the old one over time. Especially when some of these carbs have went through spells of "sitting up" off and on during their life. What is your time worth to you??...and the frustration. LOL

But, to get back to your problem, it sounds as if your carb DOES need replaced if you have already cleaned it thoroughly and replaced all the parts. Your carb is simply worn out in my opinion.

The needle jet set that your friend recommended to you came in that kit. It is the main needle and the main orfice which it contacts.

The only parts that don't come with the carb kits are.... the float (dealer item only), the main nozzle...which you simply clean, and the float needle seat...which is not removable at all in a Keihin carburetor.

 

I have an 83 honda 185s and mine does the same thing....after you ride it ...it won't start....it's terrible about that.It did it when I bought it and that was years and years ago and it was fairly new. Even if it's running great...still won't start ..unless it gets a new spark plug. I have finally just got it running today.It's been sitting up for 3 years. The carb was a mess. The pull rope was busted.It ran pretty good considering.. ...but then I noticed gas pouring out from both of the hoses on the carb. Guess I'll take it apart again. I'm sure mine needs the top end rebuilt as it's had a tough life. If you've discovered a secret to better starting or any help please let me know.

 

Ok, here's the deal. I talked to a guy I worked with who is really good with motorcycles/atv's he took my carb and cleaned it very thouroughly and noticed that it was in pretty good shape except I was missing a washer in the "air mixture" screw right next to the bowl and it was all the way seated, which it should not be. He adjusted it 2 1/2 turns out and told me to adjust it from there. He told me that those carbs don't really wear out that he's ever heard of. Also he came over and saw that pleated paper filter in my air cleaner was all gummed up with old gassy sludge. He said that was probably causing my flooding problem. So hopefully I'll have the flooding/plug fouling problem fixed when I replace that. I'll keep you posted. After that, if it's still killing on me after running it for a while it is very possibly the ignition coil crapping out. Now keep in mind that my wheeler was sitting out in the weather and rain for at LEAST 15 years rusting and getting waterlogged and it sarted up virtually right away, not perfectly, but it ran. I gotta believe that it's not beyond repair though. If you need any more pointers on adjusting/cleaning the carb roadrash let me know I can ask that guy. I know I used regular carb cleaner when I cleaned mine, and he used this special honda carb cleaner stuff that he says really gets the crap out of there but you gotta wear some protective equipment becaus it's really potent, if you get it on your skin, it's bad. It really works though. also you should try to clean out those little brass ports (carefully) that are right next to the butterfly with like a small electrical wire strand or something bacuse they sometimes get gummed up. I dunno, I would never try it myself for fear I'd wreck it, but that's just what he told me. I'd try carb cleaner in there first. Blah blah blah. I rambling, thanks for your input fellas, I'm going to try what I got, but I may need more advice, or a new carb after all. We'll see.

 

I cleaned the carb real good as you talked about trlenz and it has helped. The main jet inside the carb was a mess.The only thing now ..(besides still having starting problems sometimes)...is the throttle response is a little slow even after adjusting it. I'm gonna wd40 the cable real good and see if it helps.My air filter is...well lets just say theres not much of it left..have to get a new one.Thanks for all the help!!! Sure would be nice to convert this thing to an electric start.Do they have a kit for that???? It'd be easier ...lol...

 

Hey road rash, a couple more things to tell you that my friend told me about. When lubricating that cable, he told me to use regular cable lube instead of wd40 because the cable lube is oil based and it will keep it oiled and smooth in there whereas the wd40 will evaporate. I know this because I asked him about my brake cable which stick really bad. Also, I know what you mean about the air cleaner. You can find them new on some websites which have fiche drawings and part lists, or a local honda dealer, but it's going to cost you about $70. I'd try ebay or a local swap meet type of deal if you have one around before buying one new. I just put my carb back on today and just started without the air cleaner for a little while to fine tune the carb and it sounded and ran better than it ever has. Should be even better than now when I get the air cleaner on. One last thing, My friend also told me to get a bottle of "yamaha ring free fuel treatment", which I did. Add it to your gas to help clean out your carb some more and remove some of the impurities. Don't know exactly how much that has helped yet, but it can't hurt and it only costs like $8 and you don't need alot at a time so it will last for quite a while. Oh, electric start would be nice, as would fuel injection. They don't make those kits yet, but I bet if you invented one you'd make a fortune! Later.

 

trlenz,

That OEM filter cage may retail for that 70+ dollars, but it's not available even from a Honda dealer. It was discontinued about 5 years ago. It still is shown on the fiche and will pull up in the computer at the dealer....but once the order is placed with Honda for it, they kick it back.
The paper element cannot be removed from the cage because it is designed as one piece.
The fix is to set fire of it. this burns out the paper element. Then install a Uni dual stage foam filter around the outside of the cage.
Perfect fix and has been done for several years even before that cage was discontinued simply because it cost too much.


Not bashing your friend, but I assure you that these carbs will wear out just as any other Keihin carb will due to age and wear on the float needle seat area. It is not servicable. The seat is not removable and you can't simply resurface it because there isn't enough material there to play with.
However, I agree with him 100% on not using WD40 for a cable lube and the idea of using the ring free..... Good stuff.

 

Hey knowsalot, You really do know alot. Thanks for the tips. So far cleaning the carb has helped. It atually runs with the choke all the way off. However it is good to know that it may wear out, And thanks for the great tip on the air cleaner. I'm trying to get one off ebay for cheap that looks like it's in way better shape than mine, but if it isn't in good condition or get outbid, I'll use your idea. I'm trying to get the thing runnig better withuo putting too much money into it because it is old and I basically just use it for hunting. If it craps out totally I'll probly just part it out I guess. Thanks again for the tips guys.

 

Hey trlenz....thanks for the info ... glad you got me stopped before I used the wd40.... Knowsalot...thank you as well. All help is greatly appreciated. I'll do some searching like you said on the air filter as $70.00 seems kinds high to me.Guess I'll keep dreaming on the electric start....lol... nice thought... getting rich and no pull start.Thanks again.Time to get muddy!!!