my first three wheeler
#1
my first three wheeler
just got my first three wheeler and love it , but I need brakes . can some one tell me how to remove the rear brake drum so i can install new shoes . it also looks like i need to do axle bearings too so any advice will be greatly appreciated. man these things are fun to ride its a 1984 honda atc 200 m
#2
#3
my first three wheeler
Welcome, I have the same bike and have performed both repairs.
You may need a special puller to get the brake drum off if its siezed on like mine was.
I used pry bars, hammer heat etc. etc. and ended up breaking the drum into pieces.
I had a very hard time locating a replacement drum but i finally found one in Boston and had it shipped to Toronto at a cost of $60.00 US not including shipping.
I now have 2 spares, so if you need one we could make a deal.
Once the drum is off, the axle bearings are not too difficult to replace, you will require the seals too.
I went to Canadian Bearings with the old bearings and seals and they were able to match them up and the cost was surprisingly low.
One other thing I should caution you about is the removal of the axle shaft from the bearing retainer / frame.
I had to hammer on mine to get it out and ended up damaging the threads on the end of the axle, I suggest using a "sacrificial" deep socket that is large enough to allow the threaded portion of the axle to go through but will fit on the ledge where the shaft gets wider, when you take a wheel off you will see what I mean.
Good luck with the drum!
You may need a special puller to get the brake drum off if its siezed on like mine was.
I used pry bars, hammer heat etc. etc. and ended up breaking the drum into pieces.
I had a very hard time locating a replacement drum but i finally found one in Boston and had it shipped to Toronto at a cost of $60.00 US not including shipping.
I now have 2 spares, so if you need one we could make a deal.
Once the drum is off, the axle bearings are not too difficult to replace, you will require the seals too.
I went to Canadian Bearings with the old bearings and seals and they were able to match them up and the cost was surprisingly low.
One other thing I should caution you about is the removal of the axle shaft from the bearing retainer / frame.
I had to hammer on mine to get it out and ended up damaging the threads on the end of the axle, I suggest using a "sacrificial" deep socket that is large enough to allow the threaded portion of the axle to go through but will fit on the ledge where the shaft gets wider, when you take a wheel off you will see what I mean.
Good luck with the drum!
#4
my first three wheeler
WELCOME!
You picked a good three wheeler to start off with. And sometime in the future if you get tired of bouncing off the seat everytime you hit a bump you can get a 83-85 200x rolling chassis and bolt that motor right in that frame with no mods. Here sometime i would like to do that.
I cant help with the drum either all I can say is take your time and dont break anything lol good luck
HondaAtcRoxz
You picked a good three wheeler to start off with. And sometime in the future if you get tired of bouncing off the seat everytime you hit a bump you can get a 83-85 200x rolling chassis and bolt that motor right in that frame with no mods. Here sometime i would like to do that.
I cant help with the drum either all I can say is take your time and dont break anything lol good luck
HondaAtcRoxz
#5
my first three wheeler
Great choice on machine. I just finished completely replacing the components on the rear axle, so I know what your facing. Here's a couple of tips, maybe some of them will help.
1. The brake drums seem to get badly corroded on the splines on the axle itself. I pried the o-ring that sits on the axle to keep crud off the splines out and then kept spraying PB Blaster into it to work some things free. After heating with a torch, cooling off, repeat several times. I broke the drum into pieces while trying to remove. The interesting thing is that the drum is cast iron, but the splined part on the axle is steel, so you won't be able to crack that part off. I ended up removing it with two prybars, me on one side of it and my buddy on the other side. We had to really push to get it off, but eventually it moved.
2. The bearings aren't too bad to get out. Mine were absolutely destroyed and falling apart, and it still didn't take much. I used a long punch (10 inch) to get a whack at them from the opposite side of the housing. Be careful with this step, whatever your approach, because if you warp or bend the housing at all, you'll eat through bearings like there is no tomorrow. You would have to go some to do that though.
3. I don't know if you have located the parts that you need to complete this or what kind of time frame you have to work with, but you can find some prices that are pretty easy on the pocket book. I ended up picking up a new brake drum (almost brand spanking new) on Ebay for $12.00. Sometimes there are guys parting out entire machines and you can pick up parts quick and easy. The other place that I went for most of my parts was the JR Graham website. Bearings, cables, brake shoes, all were pretty cheap and easy to get.
4. One last thing. Check your rear sprocket while your taking things apart. After 22 years, I'm sure it needs a break. I replaced mine and I was amazed at the difference. It felt like it had an extra couple of HP just from taking the old stretched chain out and replacing that along with the sprockets. Quite a bit of difference.
If you need help finding parts, give me a holler.
1. The brake drums seem to get badly corroded on the splines on the axle itself. I pried the o-ring that sits on the axle to keep crud off the splines out and then kept spraying PB Blaster into it to work some things free. After heating with a torch, cooling off, repeat several times. I broke the drum into pieces while trying to remove. The interesting thing is that the drum is cast iron, but the splined part on the axle is steel, so you won't be able to crack that part off. I ended up removing it with two prybars, me on one side of it and my buddy on the other side. We had to really push to get it off, but eventually it moved.
2. The bearings aren't too bad to get out. Mine were absolutely destroyed and falling apart, and it still didn't take much. I used a long punch (10 inch) to get a whack at them from the opposite side of the housing. Be careful with this step, whatever your approach, because if you warp or bend the housing at all, you'll eat through bearings like there is no tomorrow. You would have to go some to do that though.
3. I don't know if you have located the parts that you need to complete this or what kind of time frame you have to work with, but you can find some prices that are pretty easy on the pocket book. I ended up picking up a new brake drum (almost brand spanking new) on Ebay for $12.00. Sometimes there are guys parting out entire machines and you can pick up parts quick and easy. The other place that I went for most of my parts was the JR Graham website. Bearings, cables, brake shoes, all were pretty cheap and easy to get.
4. One last thing. Check your rear sprocket while your taking things apart. After 22 years, I'm sure it needs a break. I replaced mine and I was amazed at the difference. It felt like it had an extra couple of HP just from taking the old stretched chain out and replacing that along with the sprockets. Quite a bit of difference.
If you need help finding parts, give me a holler.
#7
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