Hey everyone, I'll be ordering some Lonestar +2's VERY soon. I wheelied my shee over today, it flipped, wheel caught the upper left.. snapped it! Plus my ankle.. Well, I need to know where the "cheapest" place to buy a full +2 Lonestar A arm kit is. Will I need brakelines?? I think my hubs are fine. Don't +2 tie rods come with them?? I think so.. But, my real question is, will I be able to keep my shocks? I have works threaded duals w/rezzies, set up for stock width. Wouldn't they be fine if I preloaded them very stiff?? Thanks for replies, I'm ordering tomorrow!

 

Too bad about that little wheelie-gone-bad. I'm not exactly sure who sells Lone Star a-arms the cheapest, but I do know K&K ATV Supply sells the a-arms your looking for at a reasonable price. You will need brakelines, I'd reccommend some stainless steel braided brakelines. You can pick up a set of stainless steel brakelines from Vito's Performance for your Banshee for $39.99 (248-969-9168) a set, which is an awesome price compared to a set of Fastline brakelines from some other company for $100. I'm sure +2" tie-rods come with those Lone Star a-arms, but you probably will need your stock tie-rod ends. You'll be able to keep your Works shocks with your wider a-arms, but they will be a lot softer due to the extra leverage. Preloading them stiffer will help, but the best thing to do would be to send your shocks back to Works, and ask them to revalve your shocks for the wider a-arms. They may charge you a small fee, but your shocks will be set up perfectly for the new arms. Now that you're ordering the wider a-arms, I'd reccommend buying a Lone Star 2+2" axle to match the wider front end. I think it runs about $269 and you can buy it from K&K also. Hope I've helped.

 

quadmxer, thanks alot man. I was already planning on ordering from K&K, but I wasn't sure. I don't have the money for an axle.. heck, i'm already going to be paying this out.. $50 a month! Thanks for the brakeline tip, I was going to get Fastlines, but.. vito's is ALOT cheaper! How much do you think Works will charge to revalve them? Would it be alright to race the rest of the series/season, and when i rebuild my motor, and powdercoat my frame this winter, send them up and get them done? I'm missing out on this weekends race.. Also, do bearings, and seals and all that other little stuff come w/the a arms?? thanks for all your help!

 

Ride the bike before you send the shocks out to be revalved. Works typically sets there shocks up a little bit stiff anyway. L/S arms will come with everything you need. You will be reaming the spindals but that is life. There are 2 versions you can buy now also. They have a rec and a race a-arm. The race have more adjustability than the rec. You may or may not want this many options. Plus there is a big difference in price also.

 

<< [i]You will be reaming the spindals but that is life.

<< [i]

Exactly what does reaming mean? Sorry, am not familiar with this term.. So, I won't have to buy anything but the A arm kit, and brakelines and I'll be ready to roll? CTBanshee, I race at Badlands, and Caddo Point.. So I'll be getting the Race version. Thanks for your help,

 

What &quot;reaming&quot; means to you is that you will have to increase the hole size in the spindels that the ball joint stud goes through. This is because L/S uses a beefier ball joint than stock. I have Laeger arms and they use a warrior ball joint. The warrior is beefier but does not require any reaming. You would be best to go ahead an order the reaming bit when you order the a arms. That way you know you have the correct size to start with. If you get the arm kit and brake lines you will be ready to roll. I will warn you in advance. It is harder to get the stock stuff apart than it is to put the new togather. Setting the front end is not a lot of fun either. Good luck! I am out of the racing game for a while. I had a gnarly crash at Swan this past Sunday. I hurt the banshee good! I hurt me good too!

 

Oh, by the way. You will want to order +2+1 a arms. Not just +2. You want to put a little more weight over the back end. +2+1 a arms and a stock length or -1 swingarm are a good combo.

 

CTBanshee, i'm having a heck of a time taking the stock ones off. The top arm bolt won't come out, so i'm afraid i'll have to take my silencer off eewwww.. So should I call K&amp;K and get a reaming kit too? I have to call them back anyway. How is the easiest way to get the tie rod ends off? And, how is the easiest way to get the front end straight?? Lonestar only has +2+1 for the shee.. On A arms.. Oh yeah, man.. I stripped a lug nut on the left front.. man this sucks!

 

CT, what happened at Swan? That track is pretty nice.. I've never rode my shee on it.. But bikes are fun! Also, I called K&amp;K back, they're out of reaming kits.. Shawn said I could get one from any Snap On dealer.

 

quadmxer70, Do you know of any other place to get the brake lines for that cheap? I called around, and Hy-Tech atv is the cheapest.. for $69. Vito's are out of stock, and I am willing to spend a little more for less down time. Thanks for the replies