Rancher Vs. Kodiak
#1
12-29-1999, 07:59 PM
#3
12-30-1999, 12:06 PM
The purpose of a limited slip differential is to allow one wheel to rotate at a slower rate than the opposing wheel when making turns. Without it and the inside wheel must spin against the ground as it remains more stationary relative to the outside wheel.
The problem that plagues this design is when you find yourself stuck in a mud hole with one wheel having little or no traction. By design, it reacts in the same manner to the wheel that is stuck in the mud, causing a loss in torque on the wheel that is pulling while allowing to free wheel to spin freely. The end result is little or no pulling power from the only wheel that has traction with the ground.
The locking feature allows you to disenage the slip mechanism so that BOTH wheels have equal torque, allowing the wheel remaining in the mud to bite it's way out of the mudhole.
I own a '97 Kawasaki Bayou 220 and '92 Honda TRX300 (2WD), neither of which is equipped with slip-type differential. If I had it to do over again, I would have bought the Bayou 300 (2WD) which does include a slip-type differential with the locking feature.
There is a trick that you can sometimes use when finding yourself stuck with a slip-type differential without the locking feature. I learned it many years ago from a friend. Apply the rear brake as you increase the throttle. What you are trying to do is create equal friction on both wheels so that differential cannot sense any difference. When performed correctly, both wheels will begin to turn slowly at the same rate just as if the differential were locked. Just be careful not to burn up your clutch by being over zealous with throttle and brake.
[This message has been edited by drlaney (edited 12-30-1999).]
[This message has been edited by drlaney (edited 12-30-1999).]
The problem that plagues this design is when you find yourself stuck in a mud hole with one wheel having little or no traction. By design, it reacts in the same manner to the wheel that is stuck in the mud, causing a loss in torque on the wheel that is pulling while allowing to free wheel to spin freely. The end result is little or no pulling power from the only wheel that has traction with the ground.
The locking feature allows you to disenage the slip mechanism so that BOTH wheels have equal torque, allowing the wheel remaining in the mud to bite it's way out of the mudhole.
I own a '97 Kawasaki Bayou 220 and '92 Honda TRX300 (2WD), neither of which is equipped with slip-type differential. If I had it to do over again, I would have bought the Bayou 300 (2WD) which does include a slip-type differential with the locking feature.
There is a trick that you can sometimes use when finding yourself stuck with a slip-type differential without the locking feature. I learned it many years ago from a friend. Apply the rear brake as you increase the throttle. What you are trying to do is create equal friction on both wheels so that differential cannot sense any difference. When performed correctly, both wheels will begin to turn slowly at the same rate just as if the differential were locked. Just be careful not to burn up your clutch by being over zealous with throttle and brake.
[This message has been edited by drlaney (edited 12-30-1999).]
[This message has been edited by drlaney (edited 12-30-1999).]
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)