DS650 EXHAUST TURNS RED...IS THIS RIGHT?
#1
11-15-2003, 01:00 AM
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DS650 EXHAUST TURNS RED...IS THIS RIGHT?
My DS650 Exhaust turns BRIGHT RED when I'm running from 1/4 throttle on. Is this RIGHT? I'm using a RWR TM-45 CARB WITH THE PUMP OPTION working. What Jetting, Needle position and pilot setting should I be using? I need to be sure the Carb was set-up right from Ron Woods racing. I bought this from MARK at Dunes Performance.
Please help!
GLWBEAR
Please help!
GLWBEAR
#2
11-15-2003, 03:29 AM
DS650 EXHAUST TURNS RED...IS THIS RIGHT?
Ive actually heard from ppl on here that the DS makes its most power alittle on the lean side, doesnt sound safe tho. Theres been numerous threads posted by ppl with glowing red exhausts. When i got my brand new DS home i took it out at night and the headers were glowing. It maybe is alittle on the lean side, id say if its not back firing and the plugs look alright then youre fine. Many new yfz owners are asking about the same thing, its not uncommon.
RoughRider01
RoughRider01
#3
11-15-2003, 03:36 AM
#4
11-15-2003, 03:52 AM
DS650 EXHAUST TURNS RED...IS THIS RIGHT?
If the YFZ pipes are red hot from the factory, they should put a warning label on the pipe saying "CAUTION: HOT!" since they don't, some MORON is going to touch the exhaust pipe, sue Yamaha & probably bilk them for millions. I really hope it doesn't happen, since it should be OBVIOUS that the exhaust is hot. However, some idiot woman won $2 million from McDonalds for HOT Coffee. Now, everyone in the world knows that HOT COFFEE and exhaust pipes are both hot, right?
GLWBear,
I'd jet a little richer. If you are running lean, then your engine isn't producing all of the power it has the potential to. RoughRider mentioned that they tend to run a little lean - it is possible that is the case however I wouldn't risk it unless I was tuning the machine on a dyno or other more scientific methods (seat of the pants doesn't count for me.) My 2001 DS was lean when I installed my pipe, then I moved the clip on slot & went up one size on the main and all was good.
GLWBear,
I'd jet a little richer. If you are running lean, then your engine isn't producing all of the power it has the potential to. RoughRider mentioned that they tend to run a little lean - it is possible that is the case however I wouldn't risk it unless I was tuning the machine on a dyno or other more scientific methods (seat of the pants doesn't count for me.) My 2001 DS was lean when I installed my pipe, then I moved the clip on slot & went up one size on the main and all was good.
#5
11-15-2003, 05:43 AM
#6
11-15-2003, 01:37 PM
DS650 EXHAUST TURNS RED...IS THIS RIGHT?
The way I heard it, she won 2 million; wanted more & went back to court. The second judge reduced it to 200k. I think it's safe to say we all agree she should have recieved nothing. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] I've burned myself before - in fact once I accidentally touched the tip of my exhaust on my DS, I guess it's time to sue the manufacturer. I have several clients who are lawyers, I just hope they aren't the type to bring this lousy type of case to the world.
#7
11-15-2003, 01:58 PM
DS650 EXHAUST TURNS RED...IS THIS RIGHT?
Can someone tell me how you know if it's running lean or rich? I read the fillowing: If the spark plug is black (rich), if it's white (lean). Also, where are the jets on the stock carb? How many jets are there? I need to purchase the 04 X service manual on CD (PDF format) so I know how to dial this machine of mine in!
Trending Topics
#8
11-15-2003, 03:43 PM
DS650 EXHAUST TURNS RED...IS THIS RIGHT?
TheOz,
You've got the basics right. If you have not done jetting on your carburetor, the first thing you'll need is to set aside some time to do it right the first time. From the factory, it is impossible to remove the 'bowl' without removing the carburetor from the ATV. (OK, some people may find a way, but it is easier if the carb. is not atached to the ATV.) So take the carburetor off, & just be careful & take your time with that. The hardest part is going to be the throttle cable, which is just more of a finger buster than anything.
Before you take the bowl off, go to a hardware store with a GOOD selection of screws and get: 3 4mm x 10mm allen head stainless steel screws and one 4mm x 12mm.
Once you've got it off, you need to either drill out the screws holding the bowl onto the carb. or use an impact wrench, or vice grips, or any of the other 20 different ways people have done it. (I drilled the heads off on my second DS, if your careful this works well.)
Now that the bowl is off, you are looking at a bunch of brass items sticking up, those are your jets. The main is hard to see right now it is inside of the brass tube with holes in it. Unscews the deal and you've got your main out. (It should be labeled a 165 on it.) If it doesn't say 165, then you might have the wrong jet. Now you'll just install the new one - tight but not too tight. you'll want to get a few different sizes, mostly larger, but it's possible you could need some smaller ones in certain situations.
Re-assemble the carb. now and turn it over so you're looking at the gold colored 'cap' on top. Unscrew those screws (you may need to get replacements for those as well.) and now you're getting at the needle. Gently pull out the black rubber deal, then beneath that is the slide with the needle in it. you can easily pull the needle out and be sure to note where all of the little washers & such go. Now looking at the needle you'll see several circular cut outs or slots. You'll also see an e-clip in what is I think the third slot from the factory. If you move that clicp down you are richening your needle (mid range power) if you move it up you are making it leaner. When speaking of clip position, the slots are referred to by number; one at the top and counting up as you go down. Some have five slots, some have six. My Kawasaki Mojave had no slots at all - I had to install washers to change the mid jetting.
Once you get all of the screws replaced with stainless steel you should be able to change the jetting within five minutes while the carburetor is on the machine. All you'ed need to do is pull the seat, loosen the carb. so you can turn it, turn off the gas, drain the carb. then turn the carb. a little, undo the screws, change the jetting as you desire tighten it all back up and you're on your way. OH! Don't forget to smile right then either! Any of your buddies with a Raptor have to spend about 20-40 minutes doing the exact same thing. (20 minutes is someone who is a freakin' pro at jetting, 30 mins is avewrage I hear.)
You've got the basics right. If you have not done jetting on your carburetor, the first thing you'll need is to set aside some time to do it right the first time. From the factory, it is impossible to remove the 'bowl' without removing the carburetor from the ATV. (OK, some people may find a way, but it is easier if the carb. is not atached to the ATV.) So take the carburetor off, & just be careful & take your time with that. The hardest part is going to be the throttle cable, which is just more of a finger buster than anything.
Before you take the bowl off, go to a hardware store with a GOOD selection of screws and get: 3 4mm x 10mm allen head stainless steel screws and one 4mm x 12mm.
Once you've got it off, you need to either drill out the screws holding the bowl onto the carb. or use an impact wrench, or vice grips, or any of the other 20 different ways people have done it. (I drilled the heads off on my second DS, if your careful this works well.)
Now that the bowl is off, you are looking at a bunch of brass items sticking up, those are your jets. The main is hard to see right now it is inside of the brass tube with holes in it. Unscews the deal and you've got your main out. (It should be labeled a 165 on it.) If it doesn't say 165, then you might have the wrong jet. Now you'll just install the new one - tight but not too tight. you'll want to get a few different sizes, mostly larger, but it's possible you could need some smaller ones in certain situations.
Re-assemble the carb. now and turn it over so you're looking at the gold colored 'cap' on top. Unscrew those screws (you may need to get replacements for those as well.) and now you're getting at the needle. Gently pull out the black rubber deal, then beneath that is the slide with the needle in it. you can easily pull the needle out and be sure to note where all of the little washers & such go. Now looking at the needle you'll see several circular cut outs or slots. You'll also see an e-clip in what is I think the third slot from the factory. If you move that clicp down you are richening your needle (mid range power) if you move it up you are making it leaner. When speaking of clip position, the slots are referred to by number; one at the top and counting up as you go down. Some have five slots, some have six. My Kawasaki Mojave had no slots at all - I had to install washers to change the mid jetting.
Once you get all of the screws replaced with stainless steel you should be able to change the jetting within five minutes while the carburetor is on the machine. All you'ed need to do is pull the seat, loosen the carb. so you can turn it, turn off the gas, drain the carb. then turn the carb. a little, undo the screws, change the jetting as you desire tighten it all back up and you're on your way. OH! Don't forget to smile right then either! Any of your buddies with a Raptor have to spend about 20-40 minutes doing the exact same thing. (20 minutes is someone who is a freakin' pro at jetting, 30 mins is avewrage I hear.)
#10
11-15-2003, 06:32 PM
