yes, maintain the intake tube but if you got an older bike go to the dealer and get the new and improved thicker ribbed model that does not collapse under the vacuum of high rpm. using the intake tube has been dyno proven by MRHP to offer better power and torque, it inscreases velocity, and you will even have to jet up going from carb mount back to it.

 

Primarily I started this thread out of curiosity rather than necessity. I had read a post that mentioned that Hightower was able to fix the hard throttle pull on the TM-45... Personally, I don't pay much attention to the throttle pull. My wife likes to ride my machine from time-to-time and complains about the throttle.

I have no issues with tuning the carb. I have dialed in the pump circuit, get really good bottom end response.

I have set my bike up with RWR Stage I. Yes I am looking to add more power. You have probly read some of my other post asking: Where would you turn to for performance?

I have been reading all of the post on this site and can see a varied opinion on the subject of horsepower: TVI, MR. HP, PAMI.

 

Hightower,

Are you still using the Airbox with the tube or did you fab a mounting braket to support the filter.

On your Picture sight you have a pic of a DS with Fuel Injection, is that yours?


Also, Sam gave me a rundown on what you did with the carb springs... Good Fix!

 

Thanks for the tip Eric, but it's not that easy, but I have other issues. I'll email you directly.

Good Luck Bama.

BigDaddy

 

Big Daddy,

Tell me about your experience with the RWR Stage II...




03 Baja, Stage I

 

I use the airbox because I am a trail rider and need the splash protection at creek crossings and mud puddles.
but the most power is made with the intake boot installed, and filter on the end of it with airbox removed. some people zip tie the rig to the frame, others make a nice aluminum flange bolted to the frame , kinda like the front of the airbox.

the fuel injection is AZSAND's, I just posted the pics for him. It is from KMS in arizona, around $1300 I think for the kit, + tuning time to map.

 

I may not be the guy to ask..... I say that because my Stage two has wipped-up on two stage 3's. Don't know why I'm lucky. In fact, when my bike was completely stock. I was keeping up with stage 2's with MUCH smaller riders. Was beating other stock bikes giving up 100 - 150lbs. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

Now, with the stage 2, I'm extremely competitive with stage 3's (better than most). I walk away from the YFZ's with pipes and dyno time. With me on my bike, I'm almost dead even with Shees w/high compression pistons, pipes and many other mods - also giving up 100 - 150lbs in rider to them.

I purchased my RWR 11.5:1 piston used. I've got the newer piston that has about an inch wide peak across the piston. The older ones really wern't 11.5:1. Funny thing here is that I probably got the Mario's old piston from a third party (dealer Lead Technician) who did some work on Mario's sled. The only thing that I did different to the piston is change the ring gap. The ring gap was about .020 too tight. .020 is actually quite a bit of a difference (in my opinion).

EagleCollector has ridden my sled and simply said that you would never know it was a stage2 He felt that it was as fast or faster than his Stage 3. That was quick-tuned and under-piped. My sled is even faster now! Would I do it again? YES. But I would think about doing some head work. Porting and polishing can do WONDERS! Just need to get it done this summer. With my set-up, I think it will yeild another 5 - 7HP. Problem, is that good head work is hard to find. I believe that Eric has the ticket, but not sure if his guy does it for everyone.

Go for it BAMA.

By the way, I've got about $275.00 into my stage two not including carb. WELL worth the money.