Dang guys i dont think i will ever get this bike running again.Seems like i fix this then that breaks.I took apart the clutch to see just how bad it was.. Half the plates in there did not measure up to the minimum thickness.When i went to take the clutch basket out i noticed the clutch lock nut and tab washer were all chewed up and worn real bad on one side. dont really know what im doing but im trying to do my best, plus my 2004 shop manuel helps alot. If anyone knows whats going on with it please let me know.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]

 

It sounds like you mic every plate, is this mesurment in the shop manuel? could you post it. when I checked my clutch I was told the whole stack for fibers should be 27.5 mm (1.0827) or thicker and the steels 11.5mm (.453) or thicker. I wonder if you clutch is getting more worked in differnt plases than others insted of evenly. can you post a pic of the nut thats chewed up?

 

so, do you think that was the 4th and 5th gear problem you were having? I have a shop manual too. I will look at it today and see if they read the same.

 

Are you running stock clutch springs?

 

Hey guys just got back from my buddies shop, as for the clutch plates they all toast. The clutch lock nut was marred from a impact gun or something like that from when it was originaly put together. We are not sure why somebody would bend part of the tab washer, buddy said if it does not come from the factory like that then someone bent it over so it would act like a locking device. The plates were all worn and the metal plate rings were discolored like they were doing some major slipping. Replacing clutch with the barnett cabon ? kevlar? something or another. It comes with heavier spring from what they say. Hopefuly this was the problem in 4th and 5th. They said i probaly started this problem labor day when i had these real agressive, cheap no name paddels on the bike. The combination of my weight and that play a big factor. Hopefuly we will get this thing put back together quick. thanks again

 

That tab washer comes that way and needs to be bent up even farther when you do the re-install. Rotax didn't miss a thing with these motors[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

2big2bfast,
I should have read this thread before replying to your later thread on this subject. Regarding your DSs tendency to roll in gear, check your steel plates when you have your clutch apart. I bet some or all are warped due to the excessive heat generated when the clutch was slipping. I strongly suggest replacing them when your do the friction plates otherwise you won't have full contact between the plates and your new clutch will start slipping right away. Plus, is will roll in gear and be hard to shift.
Also, if you run fully sinthetic oil like Mobile-1 for cars, this will cause your clutch to slip. Use the synthetic oils that are made for motorcycle engins like Mobile-1 MX4T. If its not made for a bike engine it will have friction modinfers that will cause your clutch to slip. There have been many posts on this subject that you can fine with the "search" Popular consus among the group is that the stock clutch - with stronger springs - is the best clutch you can run in the DS. Rom Woods and others have the springs.

 

Im sorry for confusing you guys. I have two bikes, a 2003 ds 650, and i also have a 2003 baja. The baja i burned the clutch completely up. After dropping a 160$ on a clutch kit i thought i should go and check my other bike. I dont ride the ride the red one to often its more or less my wifes bike or who ever is going with me. I adjusted it this morning and gave it a service. I used the bom 10 40w. Do you think i need to change to a different weight. This is what clawson honda said it should be using. Were gonna install a barnett clutch in the baja monday. Is this a decent clutch or not really?

 

just talked to barnett techs the other day questioning the "heavy duty clutch springs" #mt-14-6. I was having slipping after my stage two mods and install of these springs. They said that they are only about 15% stiffer than stock. Thats nothing compared to what most are running from woods 40% or 60%. I recently got some 60% woods fron on dunes and no more slippy. measured stack and steels at that time and all looks to be in good cond. spec's out under limit of wear. anyone else had problems after switching to barnetts???? also is there any difference or problem with mixing order of steels and fibers ?? not stack order just different steels and fibers within stack? dropped steel stack while out of bike and now there all mixed up. steels are steels right?

 

i used the springs from the barnett kit. around a year of service with no slipping. there should only be one different friction plate. the one that fits in the offset groove on the outside.