for clarification, I will explain why the last clutch disk is different, and also why only one of them has to be different.

If all the fiber disks were in the same grooves, and somebody left them all in there forever to the point that all the fiber links wore off, then you would have metal on metal and could cause other problems besides a junk clutch.

So the very last fiber that goes on has its own set of shallow notches that it sits in, and these shallow notches serve to limit how far in the pressure plate can travel. When clutch wear reaches the point of the last fiber bottoming out in the shallow grooves, the result is mega clutch slip without reaching the point of welding disks together.


Why Barnett would make two fiber plates that are different from the others is beyond me, only the very last one needs to be different for the reason mentioned above, so if I got a kit from them that only had one that is different from the rest I'd be okay with that, because that's the way it is from stock too.

 

So are they saying there are two (2) different clutch assemblies for the DS?

 

Thanks Hightower. That makes sense. I'm glad that you are here. At least we have a knowledgeable guy that can give us correct answers to all of our F-ups. Thanks bud

 

This will also help clear things up.

"Don,
There should be one, but there may be two depending on when the kit was made. Nevertheless, if you have two green Kevlar plates, install one as the first friction plate and one as the last. If you have one green Kevlar plate, it will be the last plate installed (against pressure plate). The last friction plate in this clutch assembly is rotated in a different position in the clutch basket. The Kevlar plate is a different material to reduce wear on the pressure plate and it also has slightly smaller tabs to fit into the different position on the clutch basket.

Sorry for any confusion regarding this.

Chris Taylor
Barnett Tool & Eng."

 

Alright here's one for ya. I have had my cover off four times now since the install, everything is right, but this piece of crap still will not disengage fully. It will hook up at the end of the throw, and with it pulled fully in, I cant start it, if I hold my brake, I can stop it, but have to hold on the gas to keep it running, and I also cant shift under power!!! If I pull the side off again the piece of crap is coming out!!!!! Any ideas???

 

ttt

 

I would look at the lever where the cable attached to (on top of the case) Is it positioned far enough to the right that you are getting the full throw of the Clutch pack actuator? Also the pressure plate bearing may not be seated completely in the pressure plate which would shorten the stroke of the actuator as well.....

 

I have kind of the same problem. In first gear with the clutch pulled in fully, it wants to walk forward. It is also very notchy shifting until the thing really warms up. I did not do the original install so I need to pull the clutch cover and check things out.

 

She's getting plenty of movement to pull the pressure plate back, it's like the clutch packs arent releasing.

 

How long have you had the disk in?
I was told it take a while to break-in
Also the weight of oil likely will an effect as well. Other then that I suggest talking to either Marky or Randall or one of the other geniuses