Thanks for the help Scoundrel! I was thinking I might pull it apart again and resoak the fibers for good measure, if that doesnt work then I'll put a stock clutch back in it!

 

The HPR guys recommend Klotz synthetic. I've used Valvoline 10-40 motorcycle oil (specifically for wet clutch applications) since my first oil change. I ordered the HPR clutch kit (different then the Barnett kit) from Richards Recreation. I called HPR and asked about using Valvoline motorcycle oil. I was told it should work just fine. So, that's what I"m still using. I soaked the clutch fibers for 30 minutes prior to installing them. Initially, I too felt the machine wanted to move (just a little) with the clutch pulled all the way in. After a couple of hours of riding, everything seems to be in great shape. Good luck.

 

Thanks Oz, mine wont stop with it pulled in, I now have two days of riding on it. It is better than at first, but still not right.

 

The presoak is extremely important. What happens is that the plates swell once saturated with oil. I installed the 9 disk setup in mine and before rhe wreck i was extremely pleased. It acted and grabbed like my b&m shift kit in my iroc, no slippage at all. Make sure the actuator is positioned correctely and the cable is properly adjusted.

 

I was gonna tell you if you skuff the metal plates with sandpaper in a crossing pattern it will hook up alot better. might want to get some rw60 % springs also. it sounds like you have have enough hook up already

 

Ya hook up isnt the problem that's for sure, I had pami springs in it first and pulled the actuator through the pressure plate they were so hard!

 

You do have the 2 washers installed on the actuator before you insert it into the pressure plate bearing don't you? Sounds to me like something is missing from the recipe if you pulled the actuator through the pressure plate.......

I don't believe removing the disks again for the purpose of soaking them will do anything but waste another gasket.
If you had them in for 2 full day of riding then they obviously are wet. They sat overnight bathed in oil when you were done for the day....

I would love to come over and help you with it but you are a wee bit far away for a quick jaunt..... [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

 

It sounds like Viper and I have the same problem. The actuator is positioned correctly and I have played with cable adjustment. I am positive it is getting full pull. I am currently running Castrol GTX 10W-40 but will be switching over to synthetic very soon. As soon as I get the DS back from being dyno tuned I am going to pull the clutch off and look it over.

 

Yes the two washers are there. Got to love them pami springs, installed on a three year old actuator that has been hammered. I rum synthetic Amsoil in all our machines, no other problems. Its something else. I can move the actuator about a 1/8 turn right now. If I get on my other machine it moves about 1/20th, not nearly as much and no problems. Dirty Bugger!

 

The actuator will not pull through the pressure plate bearing with or without the two washers installed first. It appears my actuator may have been installed incorrectly at the factory as the actuator was installed (through the pressure plate), then the two washers, then the clip to lock the actuator into place. I see the service manual shows a single (not 2) washer being installed onto the actuator, then the actuator through the pressure plate. What the ....