Pipe choice help
#21
09-14-2005, 12:33 AM
Pipe choice help
Originally posted by: 650VIPER
The bottle thing and the manifold is what finally took the Lte's out of my running. Boondockers claim to fame is the reliablity. They have you put the mainifold so far back so to make sure the nitrous is for one, fully dry, and two be fully mixed with the air and fuel by the time it hits your motor, so there is no lean spot anywere. The close you get the manifold to the carb, the faster the nitrous is injected to the motor before the carb is pressurised and flowing. Now we put it back so far and give it alot of room for safety, so who's to say the actaul time it take for the nitrous to get to the carb?
As for sleds, I am true blue SKIDOO!!
But if you want a really light sled to toss around, that m7 would be fun. If you rode my 800 I guarantee it would change your mind. Now I isnt saying there is anything wrong with them, like I said i'm a true skidoo fan.
Now if you want alot of go, which since you ride a 730 with nitrous, I would guess you do, you might want some more power under the hood. I have heard alot of good things about the 8-900 kits for them, just you'll be stuck filling up with some race fuel.
I am selling one of our 800's, it is in my trailer right now heading for the dealers tomorrow. And I am replacing it with a new 1000. As with the Ds, its hard to make a little motor make ALOT more power, but easier to make a heavy machine lighter and use the big motor for even more power. I am looking for 200hp with pump gas, reliably, and to get the sled in the high 500's for weight.
Polaris also is coming out with a new 755cc sled this year, should be a runner, but then you'd be riding a big POO!!lol
The bottle thing and the manifold is what finally took the Lte's out of my running. Boondockers claim to fame is the reliablity. They have you put the mainifold so far back so to make sure the nitrous is for one, fully dry, and two be fully mixed with the air and fuel by the time it hits your motor, so there is no lean spot anywere. The close you get the manifold to the carb, the faster the nitrous is injected to the motor before the carb is pressurised and flowing. Now we put it back so far and give it alot of room for safety, so who's to say the actaul time it take for the nitrous to get to the carb?
As for sleds, I am true blue SKIDOO!!
But if you want a really light sled to toss around, that m7 would be fun. If you rode my 800 I guarantee it would change your mind. Now I isnt saying there is anything wrong with them, like I said i'm a true skidoo fan.
Now if you want alot of go, which since you ride a 730 with nitrous, I would guess you do, you might want some more power under the hood. I have heard alot of good things about the 8-900 kits for them, just you'll be stuck filling up with some race fuel.
I am selling one of our 800's, it is in my trailer right now heading for the dealers tomorrow. And I am replacing it with a new 1000. As with the Ds, its hard to make a little motor make ALOT more power, but easier to make a heavy machine lighter and use the big motor for even more power. I am looking for 200hp with pump gas, reliably, and to get the sled in the high 500's for weight.
Polaris also is coming out with a new 755cc sled this year, should be a runner, but then you'd be riding a big POO!!lol
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
#23
09-14-2005, 04:10 PM
Pipe choice help
Originally posted by: OregonDunePatrol
The only other option would be to run a L O N G direct mount filter. LTE has experimented with this on the Predator, and we all know the Predator situation is the same as the DS.
The only other option would be to run a L O N G direct mount filter. LTE has experimented with this on the Predator, and we all know the Predator situation is the same as the DS.
222
#25
09-14-2005, 04:59 PM
Pipe choice help
Originally posted by: Scatterbrain
Thanks Viper, Do you know what the db is on the RW muffler and sparky? What problems did you have with the mainfold in the direct mount. Im just curious. I wasnt really wanting to get rid of the snorkle and I dont really want to move my bottle to be able to run the LTE's. I like it stealthy[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Im probably going to make a cam change next season maybe to the HR4 or HR5.
A little off topic but im half a$$ed looking around for a sled. Ive been looking at an artic cat 700. any suggestions.
Thanks Viper, Do you know what the db is on the RW muffler and sparky? What problems did you have with the mainfold in the direct mount. Im just curious. I wasnt really wanting to get rid of the snorkle and I dont really want to move my bottle to be able to run the LTE's. I like it stealthy[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Im probably going to make a cam change next season maybe to the HR4 or HR5.
A little off topic but im half a$$ed looking around for a sled. Ive been looking at an artic cat 700. any suggestions.
Scatterbrain,
I called Boondocker. They only require 1.5 inches between the manifold and the carb. You will have no problem, absolutely none with a direct mount carb filter.
#27
09-16-2005, 03:08 PM
#28
09-17-2005, 12:23 AM
Pro Rider - Oldham Racing
BUILDS THE FASTEST DS's ON THE PLANET!
Want a hot DS, or maybe one of the fastest DS's on the planet? This is the man to contact!
BUILDS THE FASTEST DS's ON THE PLANET!
Want a hot DS, or maybe one of the fastest DS's on the planet? This is the man to contact!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#29
09-17-2005, 12:48 AM
Pipe choice help
Eric,
High flowing within the parameters of exhaust systems we are talking about. The CT does have an open end option as well.
A drag pipe would be the highest flowing, but I think there isnt much chance of that working on the Oregon Coast. We've got a nitrous bike, that needs adjustable flow and quiet capable. The three options I see are a Ron Wood Exhaust with a drag pipe option, An LTE with the quiet cores option, or a CT pipe with adjustable discs - add enough disks and you'll get good flow. The Ron Wood option is expensive and not the quietest option unless you get the disked end cap. Option 2 doesnt produce huge gains like the Ron Wood Option, but easier to make it quiet. Option 3 gives us a pipe thats not nearly as high flowing as the Ron Wood Option, but adjustable and not nearly as expensive as option 1 & 2.
Thats my take on it. Its as much as a noise issue as it is a flow issue.
Just a few more notes: The DB police use this general method. 1) Take the stock top RPM level and test at half of that. In the DS case, that would be around 4000rpm. Then measure 3 feet behind the quad, and move over 45 degrees. Rev up the bike and test with a db tester ON THE SAND. This is one of the main reasons why people utilize a downspout or a disked sparky. The down spout pushes the dbs into the sand and the sand absorbs alot of them. Discs radiate the dbs all around. Both get less dbs to the actual meter.
There was a comment that the LTEs arent anywhere near 96 db - if the cores are out, it will be around 100db measured with the standards above. If you guys hear an LTE race up a hill, I can promise you that they are well above 4000 RPM. You can get away (legally) at 96db, and most cops wont pull you over if you have 98db, simply because its too close to 96. But I can tell you one thing, if you dont have ANY packing in your muffler, aint no way you'll pass the test. I've done enough research with discs to tell you guys that discs alone will not serve as a good silencer alone.
I've had the Ron Wood Racing exhaust with fresh packing tested by a USFS person on the dunes and at 4000 RPM I was at 105. A disked sparky may get it down another 2-3 db depending on how many you have.
Scatterbrain,
I dont kow the DB levels of the CT. You could probably get the sound down by getting down to 6 discs. But my tests with the stock muffler can (which will absorb more sound than the CT) and a 6-disked sparky will be around 96 db. Mind you that the CT comes with 12! Which probably translates to 101db. Thats about where the RWR exhaust would be with a disked sparky. So, you'll either have to add/remove disks, add/remove quiet cores, or add/remove a drag pipe/muffler section when you want the the power or quiet ops. If you like the CT for the price, then go up to 18 disks and it will be less restrictive and provide more top end. Then reduce the discs for quiet ops. I doubt the in-frame drag pipe could be out performed, but its the most expensive option. <u> It only takes three bolts to switch out to the in-frame drag pipe</u>. There are 6 screws that hold the Supertrapp disks, and a total of 8 screws that hold the quiet cores in place on the LTEs. <u>Disks and quiet cores are probably just as hard to switch as the drag pipe,</u> but the results are not nearly as good!
If it were me, and money wasnt an option, I would get the Ron Wood Exhaust with a disked sparky and a drag pipe segment. That way you've got a really good system and you could get the DBs down if you needed to. My second choice, if money was no option, would be the LTEs. Not as good as the first choice, but all I have to carry with me are cores! The third choice would be for the price, the CT. Add all the discs you want for good flow, and put 'em back in to make it quiet.
High flowing within the parameters of exhaust systems we are talking about. The CT does have an open end option as well.
A drag pipe would be the highest flowing, but I think there isnt much chance of that working on the Oregon Coast. We've got a nitrous bike, that needs adjustable flow and quiet capable. The three options I see are a Ron Wood Exhaust with a drag pipe option, An LTE with the quiet cores option, or a CT pipe with adjustable discs - add enough disks and you'll get good flow. The Ron Wood option is expensive and not the quietest option unless you get the disked end cap. Option 2 doesnt produce huge gains like the Ron Wood Option, but easier to make it quiet. Option 3 gives us a pipe thats not nearly as high flowing as the Ron Wood Option, but adjustable and not nearly as expensive as option 1 & 2.
Thats my take on it. Its as much as a noise issue as it is a flow issue.
Just a few more notes: The DB police use this general method. 1) Take the stock top RPM level and test at half of that. In the DS case, that would be around 4000rpm. Then measure 3 feet behind the quad, and move over 45 degrees. Rev up the bike and test with a db tester ON THE SAND. This is one of the main reasons why people utilize a downspout or a disked sparky. The down spout pushes the dbs into the sand and the sand absorbs alot of them. Discs radiate the dbs all around. Both get less dbs to the actual meter.
There was a comment that the LTEs arent anywhere near 96 db - if the cores are out, it will be around 100db measured with the standards above. If you guys hear an LTE race up a hill, I can promise you that they are well above 4000 RPM. You can get away (legally) at 96db, and most cops wont pull you over if you have 98db, simply because its too close to 96. But I can tell you one thing, if you dont have ANY packing in your muffler, aint no way you'll pass the test. I've done enough research with discs to tell you guys that discs alone will not serve as a good silencer alone.
I've had the Ron Wood Racing exhaust with fresh packing tested by a USFS person on the dunes and at 4000 RPM I was at 105. A disked sparky may get it down another 2-3 db depending on how many you have.
Scatterbrain,
I dont kow the DB levels of the CT. You could probably get the sound down by getting down to 6 discs. But my tests with the stock muffler can (which will absorb more sound than the CT) and a 6-disked sparky will be around 96 db. Mind you that the CT comes with 12! Which probably translates to 101db. Thats about where the RWR exhaust would be with a disked sparky. So, you'll either have to add/remove disks, add/remove quiet cores, or add/remove a drag pipe/muffler section when you want the the power or quiet ops. If you like the CT for the price, then go up to 18 disks and it will be less restrictive and provide more top end. Then reduce the discs for quiet ops. I doubt the in-frame drag pipe could be out performed, but its the most expensive option. <u> It only takes three bolts to switch out to the in-frame drag pipe</u>. There are 6 screws that hold the Supertrapp disks, and a total of 8 screws that hold the quiet cores in place on the LTEs. <u>Disks and quiet cores are probably just as hard to switch as the drag pipe,</u> but the results are not nearly as good!
If it were me, and money wasnt an option, I would get the Ron Wood Exhaust with a disked sparky and a drag pipe segment. That way you've got a really good system and you could get the DBs down if you needed to. My second choice, if money was no option, would be the LTEs. Not as good as the first choice, but all I have to carry with me are cores! The third choice would be for the price, the CT. Add all the discs you want for good flow, and put 'em back in to make it quiet.
#30
09-17-2005, 11:35 AM
Pro Rider - Oldham Racing
BUILDS THE FASTEST DS's ON THE PLANET!
Want a hot DS, or maybe one of the fastest DS's on the planet? This is the man to contact!
BUILDS THE FASTEST DS's ON THE PLANET!
Want a hot DS, or maybe one of the fastest DS's on the planet? This is the man to contact!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pipe choice help
Originally posted by: OregonDunePatrol
Eric,
High flowing within the parameters of exhaust systems we are talking about. The CT does have an open end option as well.
A drag pipe would be the highest flowing, but I think there isnt much chance of that working on the Oregon Coast. We've got a nitrous bike, that needs adjustable flow and quiet capable. The three options I see are a Ron Wood Exhaust with a drag pipe option, An LTE with the quiet cores option, or a CT pipe with adjustable discs - add enough disks and you'll get good flow. The Ron Wood option is expensive and not the quietest option unless you get the disked end cap. Option 2 doesnt produce huge gains like the Ron Wood Option, but easier to make it quiet. Option 3 gives us a pipe thats not nearly as high flowing as the Ron Wood Option, but adjustable and not nearly as expensive as option 1 & 2.
Thats my take on it. Its as much as a noise issue as it is a flow issue.
Just a few more notes: The DB police use this general method. 1) Take the stock top RPM level and test at half of that. In the DS case, that would be around 4000rpm. Then measure 3 feet behind the quad, and move over 45 degrees. Rev up the bike and test with a db tester ON THE SAND. This is one of the main reasons why people utilize a downspout or a disked sparky. The down spout pushes the dbs into the sand and the sand absorbs alot of them. Discs radiate the dbs all around. Both get less dbs to the actual meter.
There was a comment that the LTEs arent anywhere near 96 db - if the cores are out, it will be around 100db measured with the standards above. If you guys hear an LTE race up a hill, I can promise you that they are well above 4000 RPM. You can get away (legally) at 96db, and most cops wont pull you over if you have 98db, simply because its too close to 96. But I can tell you one thing, if you dont have ANY packing in your muffler, aint no way you'll pass the test. I've done enough research with discs to tell you guys that discs alone will not serve as a good silencer alone.
I've had the Ron Wood Racing exhaust with fresh packing tested by a USFS person on the dunes and at 4000 RPM I was at 105. A disked sparky may get it down another 2-3 db depending on how many you have.
Scatterbrain,
I dont kow the DB levels of the CT. You could probably get the sound down by getting down to 6 discs. But my tests with the stock muffler can (which will absorb more sound than the CT) and a 6-disked sparky will be around 96 db. Mind you that the CT comes with 12! Which probably translates to 101db. Thats about where the RWR exhaust would be with a disked sparky. So, you'll either have to add/remove disks, add/remove quiet cores, or add/remove a drag pipe/muffler section when you want the the power or quiet ops. If you like the CT for the price, then go up to 18 disks and it will be less restrictive and provide more top end. Then reduce the discs for quiet ops. I doubt the in-frame drag pipe could be out performed, but its the most expensive option. <u> It only takes three bolts to switch out to the in-frame drag pipe</u>. There are 6 screws that hold the Supertrapp disks, and a total of 8 screws that hold the quiet cores in place on the LTEs. <u>Disks and quiet cores are probably just as hard to switch as the drag pipe,</u> but the results are not nearly as good!
If it were me, and money wasnt an option, I would get the Ron Wood Exhaust with a disked sparky and a drag pipe segment. That way you've got a really good system and you could get the DBs down if you needed to. My second choice, if money was no option, would be the LTEs. Not as good as the first choice, but all I have to carry with me are cores! The third choice would be for the price, the CT. Add all the discs you want for good flow, and put 'em back in to make it quiet.
Eric,
High flowing within the parameters of exhaust systems we are talking about. The CT does have an open end option as well.
A drag pipe would be the highest flowing, but I think there isnt much chance of that working on the Oregon Coast. We've got a nitrous bike, that needs adjustable flow and quiet capable. The three options I see are a Ron Wood Exhaust with a drag pipe option, An LTE with the quiet cores option, or a CT pipe with adjustable discs - add enough disks and you'll get good flow. The Ron Wood option is expensive and not the quietest option unless you get the disked end cap. Option 2 doesnt produce huge gains like the Ron Wood Option, but easier to make it quiet. Option 3 gives us a pipe thats not nearly as high flowing as the Ron Wood Option, but adjustable and not nearly as expensive as option 1 & 2.
Thats my take on it. Its as much as a noise issue as it is a flow issue.
Just a few more notes: The DB police use this general method. 1) Take the stock top RPM level and test at half of that. In the DS case, that would be around 4000rpm. Then measure 3 feet behind the quad, and move over 45 degrees. Rev up the bike and test with a db tester ON THE SAND. This is one of the main reasons why people utilize a downspout or a disked sparky. The down spout pushes the dbs into the sand and the sand absorbs alot of them. Discs radiate the dbs all around. Both get less dbs to the actual meter.
There was a comment that the LTEs arent anywhere near 96 db - if the cores are out, it will be around 100db measured with the standards above. If you guys hear an LTE race up a hill, I can promise you that they are well above 4000 RPM. You can get away (legally) at 96db, and most cops wont pull you over if you have 98db, simply because its too close to 96. But I can tell you one thing, if you dont have ANY packing in your muffler, aint no way you'll pass the test. I've done enough research with discs to tell you guys that discs alone will not serve as a good silencer alone.
I've had the Ron Wood Racing exhaust with fresh packing tested by a USFS person on the dunes and at 4000 RPM I was at 105. A disked sparky may get it down another 2-3 db depending on how many you have.
Scatterbrain,
I dont kow the DB levels of the CT. You could probably get the sound down by getting down to 6 discs. But my tests with the stock muffler can (which will absorb more sound than the CT) and a 6-disked sparky will be around 96 db. Mind you that the CT comes with 12! Which probably translates to 101db. Thats about where the RWR exhaust would be with a disked sparky. So, you'll either have to add/remove disks, add/remove quiet cores, or add/remove a drag pipe/muffler section when you want the the power or quiet ops. If you like the CT for the price, then go up to 18 disks and it will be less restrictive and provide more top end. Then reduce the discs for quiet ops. I doubt the in-frame drag pipe could be out performed, but its the most expensive option. <u> It only takes three bolts to switch out to the in-frame drag pipe</u>. There are 6 screws that hold the Supertrapp disks, and a total of 8 screws that hold the quiet cores in place on the LTEs. <u>Disks and quiet cores are probably just as hard to switch as the drag pipe,</u> but the results are not nearly as good!
If it were me, and money wasnt an option, I would get the Ron Wood Exhaust with a disked sparky and a drag pipe segment. That way you've got a really good system and you could get the DBs down if you needed to. My second choice, if money was no option, would be the LTEs. Not as good as the first choice, but all I have to carry with me are cores! The third choice would be for the price, the CT. Add all the discs you want for good flow, and put 'em back in to make it quiet.
Aw Marky you took my bait too easily. A top end powered exhaust doesnt mean a high flowing exhaust, thats right top end power = slow flowing exhaust. Perfect example: CT with discs installed makes more power than with discs removed, if you put too many discs in it will hurt top end power. These type of facts can only be seen with a combustion analysis machine on the dyno.
Scatterbrain, I would get a CT, its fairly quiet and makes great top end power. This pipe also kills a little cylinder pressure in the mid range which is perfect for nos application.