OKay...
I've seen this topic nearly knocked up and down till it's blue in the face. But, I still am amazed....

I received my stage one kit (just the carb and manifold as I had everthing else already) and bolted the carb and manifold on.

Then found the hose to the gas barb too short.
Then noticed it's not a pumper carb anylonger.
Then noticed it had a choke on it... with no instruction as to where it mounts.
...etc...etc

So I call and email RWR.
I ask them where the choke mounts. No answer
I tell them I've got a twist throttle... why is there a spring in my kit? It says something about a thumb throttle. No answer.
I ask them why no pumper. And I get told to trust Ron, he's been doing this for years.
...??
However they still sent me the tuning guide and my pumper parts. (I did get a #50 pumper)

Okay... so now my carb is on, and the bike is running. (no pumper installed).
I nail the throttle after it's warmed up (and the idle all depends on if you let the throttle snap back or not).... and it hesitates and dies.
I do this over and over... to where it never can handle a hard stab at the throttle.

I thought this was the main reason you want a pumper?!?!?!
It's the main reason I have an Edlebrock pumper on my other bike!

Sooo... Can I install the pumper with the carb on the quad? If not, and I take it off... is there anything I need to tune, any springs to remove or replace??

How about the down and dirty with someone running a wide open airbox (no lid on a PPD design - batter in the box setup), a RWR pipe... and a Stator?!?!

Need some advice. HELP!!!

 

RWR single handedly gave the TM45 the only gripe its ever had. these carbs come from Mikuni with a pumper for the very same reason all other flat slides have a pumper - they need it! and not only that, they are an awesome feature full of smiles when set up right!
and its not just for the stumble off idle, it also gives better response when getting back on the throttle between shifts. it actually does make a little difference when stabbing from 1/2 to full, if adjusted right.

You got two options - send the carb back to RWR and tell them to send you one that has NOT been ADULTERATED by them, tell them you have a twisty throttle so there is no spring concern.

Or, install those parts yourself. Yes you can do it on the bike. drive the pin out of the right side lever, remove all that stuff, put the pump rod in, and reassemble it all per manual drawing with the pumper spring an leave no parts out. then go to the left side, drive that pin out and remove the return lever and the weakass return spring they put on for a light thumb throttle, and reassemble with the heavier stiffer and OEM Mikuni factory original return spring.

set the squirt limits to start squirt just after coming off idle, and continue squirting to 3/4 throttle. with boot removed from back of carb, you can look into throat, see the squirt, and see the slide reach 3/4 of wide open, adjsut as necesary. also make sure the new #50 nozzle is suirting directly on the needle jet (brass aroudn the needle in bottom of carb throat). you can turn it by reaching in with needle nose.

most likely you want the #97 needle set on 2nd groove from top, and a pilot around #27.5 or #30. idle mix screw set about one turn out from seated, give or take a little. if it starts very easy cold, then has a bit of trouble idling hot, its in too far. if its too hard to keep running cold, but does okay hot, its out too far. 1/8 turn does make a difference, getting it set perfect may take a couple rides but its worth the persistence.

 

Cool... I'll get on it all tonight.

I don't have time to send the carb back... or do I? (thinking)
I'm supposed to leave Friday for Glamis for 10 days... so it needs to be setup before that.

Maybe I can get them to send one... and take mine back. (as I've already mounted mine and it's had gas run through it).
Long shot... But I'll try.

Are your thoughts on jetting according to your bike and altitude?
I run the RWR pipe, and the more or less open airbox (PPD airbox battery holder) and run mostly at 0' - 4000'

Either way... I've got some calls to make this am!

Thanks for your help!

...and thanks for re-assuring me that I'm not going nuts on them sending me a "pumper carb" with no pumper!

 

those settings I recommend are a combination of things - my bike and eperiences, sea level and open airbox too, and many many conversations with THEBOM on the many bikes he has dynoed and setup very similiar to mine and yours. can't really recommend a main jet, cause so much plays a roll in that, but the needle and pumper settings hold true for most bikes, its the best place for you to start.

 

Jonnie,
You do not need to remove the parts on the side of the carb to put the rod in, just pull the white plastic actuator all the way up and it will slip right in. The rubber boot is a little bit of a trick. I got mine on by sliding it onto the boot before installing the rod. Once the rod in, take a pair of needle nose pliers and gently upsh the boot down onto the brass fittin that the rod slids in.
I found on mine that RXR had installed a screw into the hole for the rud from under the bowl. You will have to pull the bowl and remove the screw.
Call RWR back and ask for the parts. They gave them to me and sent them for free.

 

Ok... got it.

I put the pumper in, checked my main (#150) and the pilot (#40).... the needle I didn't check, however I put the pumper in and OH MY GAWD! What a friggin difference!!! I tell ya... now I'm PUMPED to ride the quad I've been building for my girlfriend. This thing flat out wants to run!!

WHY oh WHY would they send out a carb stripped of it's potential?? I clearly don't know.
But for the reason it'd fall on it's face when "whappin" open the throttle... the pumper just took care of it. As I thought, and as I mentioned... the same reason I bought the Edelbrock for my other bike. Simply amazing!

Thanks guys for ALL your help... it all helped me take care of biz.

The other odd thing... I didn't have to change springs as they had it setup for "twist" throttle already... and the stiffer spring was there, as well was the little one on the right side. Oh well.... it runs like a top now!

 

AGAIN.... Thanks to you all for the help!!
(Hightower for being so quick on these forums to reply!!)

I am simply amazed at the difference this carb makes for the bomb.
And, I'm simply amazed at RWR attitude towards no pumper. Wierd!

Anyway... LOVE IT! I recommend the TM45 with pumper to anyone who wants;

- Easy free starting
- AWESOME throttle response
- A carb that's easy to tune
- A worthy investment

Ride on!

 

Another experience with the TM45. Although there is alot of info that is repetative I have learned that you cannever have enough on this subject. Plus someone might be able to give a bit of info back to me on anything that might work a bit better.

OK..... So I recieved my TM45 from RWR. A few things right off the bat. When you go to order this carb from them tell them right off the bat that you want all of the pump kit parts as well. It will save you the headache of having to call them and get them sent to you after the fact. If you install the carb without them it will work but you will have to be a bit soft on the throttle. If you try and just stab the throttle the bike just stalls.

If you dont have them and need to order them from them just wait till you get them as this will make it a lot easier to install all of the parts before you put this carb on.

When you get the parts and you are ready to install it you will need to do a few things. First you will need to take the bowl off and pull the screw out of the hole that the pump rod goes through. RWR puts this in there to block the flow of fuel that will leake out if the pump is not used. You will also need to replace the pilot jet that is given to you in the pump parts. I recieved a 40 but from all of the other things I could find, a 30 might be a bit better. You will also need to replace the pup jet. The one that is in the carb when you get it is a 90 and it dumps about a gallon of gas down the carb. I recieved a 50 and it is a huge difference. Once this is done you will need to put the bowl back on.

You will need to have a swivel type allen wrench to put the manifold on that comes with the RWR stage 1 kit. The top allen is tucked way up on top is a bit of a pain to get to.

The carb comes with a new boot and makes it so that the carb and the intake meet up and there is no gap between the 2. I am sure that this helps with smoothing out the air flow. Once on you can route the new throttle cable and get that all squared away. You can also mount the choke cable and **** and if you would like you can use the old idle set screw mount and mount it to the left side fram mount.





Because the carb is a bit taller there are a few things to consider. One is that, the stock airbox hoses dont really fit up on top of the carb and under the gas tank anymore. I remedied that problem by taking an older outerwear that I had and cut a piece of it and laid it over the opening of the airbox hose openings. I cut of the end of the hoses and forced them in the openings. With the outerware and the hose end in there I put the hose clamp back on and it holds everything together. I then trimmed as much of the excess outerware off of the outer edges.



The other issue with removing the airbox hoses is you then have no place to put the positive crankkase vent, as it used to go into the side of the hoses. I have seen a few of the other DSs and the have slipped a vent on top of the barba right at the crank case. This makes me a bit nervous as its a little to close to the sand. I left the hose on and cut it back a bit. I made a stop at the local Pep Boys. I went into the "To Fast To Furious" isle and picked up a little breather vent for 3 dollars and stuck it on the end of the hose with a couple of hose clamps.



With that taken care of I coneccted the fuel line and opened the fue valve. I hit the throttle a few times and primed everything. With the airbox boot not mounted on the carb you can look down the throat of the carb and make sure that the accelerator pump is squirting in the right direction. It needs to be pointed at the needle. You can reach in with a pair of needle nose pliers and gently turn ity any place you need to get it. With this done I was able to mount the airbox boot on the carb and fire this thing up.

With a push of the button it tookk barely one revolution of the motor and it fired right up. I noticed right off the bat that it ran and idled better than it ever has. Once it was warmed up I was able to set the pump action on the carb. Pretty simple. The top scre stops the pump and the screw on the side starts the pump. I backed the start screw all of the way out wich lets the pump start just about and 1/8th to a 1/4 of the way off idle. This was the spot where there didnt seem to be any stumbling when I stabbed the gas. I stopped it at about 3/4 as this is what is stated in the tunning manual. It runs great.

It does seem to come up a bit slowly but I plan on working on that when I can get her out some place to ride. I am thinking I may need to move the needle up a notch or two to remedy that.

A few other things to take into account. The reason I stepped up to this carb was due to a few issues that I couldnt figure out. I thought I had an electrical problem due to some cutting out that I had. I checked all of the electrical and couldnt find anything. So on to the fuel system. I figured I had a bowl stuck, or a jet clogged or something. Well it turns out that when I replaced my stearing stem and put everything back together I happened to pinch the new tank vent line between the tank and the frame. This created a vacum in the tank and starved the carb.

As far as the carb goes I found that once the seat is on that there is an extra cable connection on the top of the carb that comes close enough to the seat that if you slam down on the seat and throttle is open it gets stuck. I didnt think that was very safe so I took it upon myself and ground that down with a dremel tool.



On another note... Ron Woods was nice enough to explain that the reason they dont sell the carb with the pump inplace is because it can be a pain in the *** to set up and get the perfect combination for the racing applications he puts together. Being that most of the racing he does is flat track racing they usually dont need the accelerator pump working. He did give me a tunning guide for the carb, he did give me all of the parts to get the pump running, and he did give me a new little rubber muffler bushing all for free. He said its all about customer service. I give them props!!!!

I will be taking the bike to Glamis this weekend and will update when I get back!!!


There are a few pics here that might help a few people out.

Downhillins Gallery