Sprag Clutch change..now won't start??
#11
Sprag Clutch change..now won't start??
Oh man, you guys are really scaring me! When I popped my mag off, the sprag came off with it. Is this right? If so, then I won't be worrying about this? Right?
My dealer mechanic told me to put a little dab of locktight on that key to hold it in place during installation. ??
My dealer mechanic told me to put a little dab of locktight on that key to hold it in place during installation. ??
#12
Sprag Clutch change..now won't start??
Originally posted by: BigWaynester
THEBOM beat me to it, I was going to suggest the same thing, it sounds like you are getting spark just at the wrong time. It is an easy mistake to make if you don't mark everything when you take it apart.
Originally posted by: THEBOM
When you pulled the starter sprag, did you pull the whole flywheel and hub apart?? if so your probably out of time on the pick up. With the piston at top dead center the pick up should be just past the pick up. I belive to the front side of the bike.
When you pulled the starter sprag, did you pull the whole flywheel and hub apart?? if so your probably out of time on the pick up. With the piston at top dead center the pick up should be just past the pick up. I belive to the front side of the bike.
I think thats what I've done...easy mistake I guess, or just not being smart enough to know the difference....Is there an easy fix??
#13
Sprag Clutch change..now won't start??
did you disassemble the flywheel from the flywheel hub, meaning did you remove the 8 bolts around the perimeter and seperate the fllywheel from the hub that mates the shaft with the keyway? If you did not, then you can't be out of time. But if you did, then you would have to bolt it back together exactly as it came apart or the bike aint gonna run. with the crank parked at top dead center and locked, the tab on the outside of the flywheel should be close to passing the trigger coil, this is what THEBOM refers to. the bike doesn't fire at exactly top dead center, its a few degrees off, don't know if this means the tab would be past or just before the trigger coil but close none the less. it should be easily aparent if it is off by any distance that is a multiple of the 8 bolt spacing. it sucks, you gotta pul the magneto cover to check this, the site windows in it do not line up for viewing the trigger coil.
also, you should check the gap between the flywheel and trigger coil while you are in there, don't know the spec but it is in the shop manual. and dude, don't even say you don't have a shop manual!
but if you don't, let me know, and I'll export the chapter on this and e-mail it to you.
also, you should check the gap between the flywheel and trigger coil while you are in there, don't know the spec but it is in the shop manual. and dude, don't even say you don't have a shop manual!
but if you don't, let me know, and I'll export the chapter on this and e-mail it to you.
#14
Sprag Clutch change..now won't start??
The pick up should be around 1:00 when locked in @ TDC.
mudnuri, just make sure you are at the above setting when you put it back together, if you need to take the sprag off, only 4 of the 8 bolts holds it on., and make sure you mark it, even mark the front side of the sparg so it don't get flipped.
mudnuri, just make sure you are at the above setting when you put it back together, if you need to take the sprag off, only 4 of the 8 bolts holds it on., and make sure you mark it, even mark the front side of the sparg so it don't get flipped.
#15
#16
Sprag Clutch change..now won't start??
don't know where the keyway points when you are at TDC.
You need to park the crank at TDC - pull the head cover and line up the marks on the cam sprockets, pull a plug first to remove compression so its easy to turn. then lock it with a locking bolt, it is merely an 8mm bolt long enough to reach - I think about 40 or 50mm long is plenty. I like to sharpen the end on a grinder, so it locates itself in the crank slot easier.
You need to park the crank at TDC - pull the head cover and line up the marks on the cam sprockets, pull a plug first to remove compression so its easy to turn. then lock it with a locking bolt, it is merely an 8mm bolt long enough to reach - I think about 40 or 50mm long is plenty. I like to sharpen the end on a grinder, so it locates itself in the crank slot easier.
#17
Sprag Clutch change..now won't start??
I made my TDC locking bolt. I went to the hardware store and got an 8mm bolt at least 3" long. I put it in a vice and ground down the end to a fat 3/16th" wide and the same deep. Careful not to damage the threads down further than the fat 3/16th" I keep saying fat because I'm sure it's a metric measurement but all I have is a standard tape :-( So if it was ground no bigger than 3/16" you'll be fine. If it's too fat it will not sit in the groove that is cut out in the
I just went in to the dining room and looked at mine which apart at TDC and the key looks pretty much at 12:00. Could be 12:02? :-)
I just went in to the dining room and looked at mine which apart at TDC and the key looks pretty much at 12:00. Could be 12:02? :-)
#18
Sprag Clutch change..now won't start??
Just a quick update....After taking the advice of The Bom, Hightower and Big Waynester..I had a chance yesterday to work on my bike, take it back apart and re-assemble the flywheel and housing. Put it all back together and she started right up!!
Thanks again all who had advice!
Dingo (Dave)
Thanks again all who had advice!
Dingo (Dave)
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