Mark.I have my Baja at CG right now getting some HPR parts installed one of which is one of their FSR 12:1 pistons gasketed to come in at 11.5:1.This piston is designed to be used with nitrous systems so does the higher octane requirement apply to this piston as well?If the higher octane is required for this piston when using the Boss system can you give me an approximation of just how much higher i would need to go up in octane with a 30 shot?Not trying to pin you down with any exact numbers here as there are too many variables but an educated guess.You say that the tank must be drilled ,can you elaborate on the specifics of the connection that is made at the point where the tank is drilled?Randall at HPR suggested i use NGK plug #1299-JR10B would this be the proper range to use with your Boss system? Sorry for all the questions but this is very new to me and i want to know what i am getting into before i commit.We will be riding at Florence as usual this year so any time you want to join us for a ride let me know.Are you still in the area?

 

The increase in octane is accross the board for all pistons. Getting a N20 rated piston is very good. The increase in octane is to keep the small chance of pre-ignition out of the picture. The N20 piston you have probably has some space between the top deck of the piston and the first ring. By having more space there, you can run more NOSS because it takes care of the heat issues there. So, yes, the 4pts increase in octane also relates to your piston. As far as how much more octane you'll need to run for a 12:1 ... you wont - when running NOSS with our system. The Micro Fuel Manager is a valve that adjusts the extra fuel needed to run with NOSS and various size shots of nitrous. So, what happens is that you move the valve out to 6 turns out, which will be too rich to be used with NOSS, then move (or close the valve) one turn at a time and test at each turn until you find that your motor is not rich when pushing the button. This test has to be done while you are running at least 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and under load. When you are getting close, but still a tad rich, then move the Micro Fuel Manager only 1/2 turns in, then finally 1/4 turns until its perfect. Keep in mind, if you increase your NOSS horsepower by increasing the the size of your NOSS nozzle, you'll need to start the process over. However, once it's tuned, it will remain in tune.

Bogging is too rich. Tune until the bog goes away then stop. Popping is too lean, and you'll need to add more fuel. Have someone listen to your exhaust as you test. Sometimes they can hear a pop when you cant. Of course, the best hp gains are made from tuning with something like an A/F sniffer. Thats something to consider if you want the abosolute max horsepower out of your shot.

Because the kits use an electric fuel pump, it needs another source of gas to run the NOSS. The purpose being is that this gas will run from the tank, to the electric pump, to the fuel solinoid in the smart box, to the Micro Fuel Manager Valve then into the fuel dumps. Of course the pump and the solinoid are only active when the nitrous button is pressed.

My boss has a DS, and drilled the hole for his fuel line on the right hand side of the tank towards the rear of the tank. This is a similar location to where I placed mine on my EX.

Randall has good knowlege of the spark plug situation. Im not familiar with that exact number for the DS, but, for example, I use an NGK model number DPR9Z for my EX. The "9" represents the temp of the plug. A higher number is a cooler plug. The stock number for the EX is a "8". Any automotive store can look up the specs for your quad and tell you what the stock number should be, and what the "cooler" plug will be.

Im in Utah now, but plan on making some business trips to Oregon this summer. Maybe we can catch up then!

 

Blackhawk,

Yes, the 4pts higher in octane would be 87 to 91 (for example). That's four points there. So, if you are running 87 now, and thats the correct octane that your piston recommends, you would run at least 91 with the BOSS system. To reach that, you have to mix some gas/race gas in there. I'll let you do that math on that!

On my EX, I run a 12:1 piston and run 110 octane. Im using C12. I probably run too much, but I dont really care to mix. Yes, I might get slightly more Horsepower if I were to really get my calculator out, but Its a personal choice and preference for me.

Yes, one step cooler on the plug means going from an 8 to a 9 for example.

You'll need some time to tune. When I did Sandbombers Twisted Sister dragster, it took two runs to figure it out. For some reason, my EX took a bit longer, about 4 runs total. I think the smaller motors do take longer because they seem to be more senstive to Nitrous. That Monster motor of Sandbombers just took it, and the range between too rich and too lean was huge, about 2 full turns on the Micro Fuel Manager. My EX's range between too rich and too lean is about 1 full turn on the MFM. I imagine a 50cc motor may be only 1/4 turn between too rich and too lean.

 

raptorgav you will need to upgrade your clutchsprings - I would go 60% stiffer, they are cheap and will make the lcutch last much longer. failure to upgrade springs now will allow slipping and then the clutch will wear out extremely fast, costing you more in the longrun for springs AND fibers.

 

Mark.Thanks for the input.I will get my Baja back in a couple of weeks from CG and see just how much more performance i gained with my new mods and make a decision then on wether or not i think i need a nitrous system.I plan on building a dedicated drag four stroke in the future and that may be the place for a little juice.

 

Hey just one more thing to keep in mind that we have found. The cdi of your choice will come into play with how much octane, and how big of a shot you will want to run.
Heres the example. My bike, 12-1 comp, vortex cdi. I can run a 25 shot on 100 octane at 4500' just fine. My brothers bike. 11-1, big gun cdi. Burns the tips off the plugs with 100 octane and a 25 shot. 20 shot max on 100octane. Dsaholics bike. procomm cdi, he has the same issues as my brothers.

Now I think this has to do with timing. I run the full advance on my vortex, but I think the procomm boxes have more advance than that. Dsaholic tried full 110 in his to run the 25 shot, and said it still burnt the plugs off.

Good luck gents.

 

Jed, thanks for all this useful info about NOS. I really appreciate it. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

650VIPER.Thanks for the information on the CDI.That is one i had not heard about.Yet another thing i will have to explain to the wife that i just have to buy.She just looks at me and pretends to kind of understand .I know she understands that it will cost.

 

Seems to me that the Vortex or any other 'adjustabe' CDI is a much better choice for someone doing more engine work with power adders like NOS - that way you can adjust the settings and get your machine operating that much better. Now the true test would be to pull the Vortex off of Jed's bike and put it on Jeremy or Matt's & see if they can run a 25 shot.

 

Blackhawk, now that can be done, and we havent tried it. As soon as......well crap, all our bikes are different this year. Well we can try putting the vortex on Matts bike and see how it fairs. I bet he would be just as interested.
Choose and Duneit, thats the great thing about this forum, trading information. I have learned many things off this forum from those that have done things before me. Its all good.