ok here's the deal,

i went out for a ride and my bike woudn't work unless the headlights are on(i have a 2000 ds with the 04 headlight conversion). so i just put them on and go. i stopped for a beer and then i looked at my headlight and the 2 bulbs were burned off, the bike was still running great. we continued the ride with no headlights(i also unplugged the wires and taped them to be sure there was no shortcut) and the bike still ran pretty strong for about 10 mins and then it just died, except it was running on idle.
i turned off the key, start the bike again and it ran perfectly for about 5 seconds, then it died down to the idle. i went back home with turning off the key every 5 secs and every time i was doing this, the bike ran great for another 5 seconds, absolutely no hesitation on the gas[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]. i wonder if my cdi box would be the problem? it burned off the lights and i think every time i turn the key off and on it kinda like 'resets' the comp... or could it be that my headlight conversion wasnt done correctly and i messed the cdi box??

oh i forgot, when i was on the road on fifth gear, i just shut the bike with the red button and pull on the clutch, then tried to start it back with compression and it was still not running more than idle. but if i shut it down with the red button, pull the clutch, start it back and let the clutch it was ok.

thank you!

 

Regulator-rectifier is a good place to start.

 

yeah i thought about that too but why would it work just because i turn the key on and off?


and do you have a way to check this without buying a new one??

thanks!

 

I think you have a couple of problems. I am not sure why your headlight bulbs burnt out, but i am pretty sure you have a battery or charging system problem. When the battery is dead in a DS it will only idle. It requires battery power to advance the ignition.

My first step would be to unhook the headlight and everthing you did, charge up the battery
(it takes a fair bit or charging to get the gel batterys back once they are drained), and ride the bike and see how it runs. You can also check your charging system at the battery with a multi meter. I don't remember what the reading should be, but am thinking it should be 12.5 volts.

I will check my manual tommorow (it at work).

Good luck

 

ok thanks i will try that to check the voltage at the battery. but i dont think the battery is dead because it is brand new!


thanks for the info man!

 

Section 05 ELECTRICAL
Subsection 03 (CHARGING SYSTEM)
VMR2001_017_05_03A.FM 05-03-1
CHARGING SYSTEM 0
TESTING PROCEDURE
NOTE: First, ensure that battery is in good condi-tion
prior to performing the following test using a
current inductive ammeter such as Snap-on MT
110.
If the battery is regularly discharged, check main
(25 amp) fuse condition.
The voltage regulator/rectifier could be the culprit
of a blown fuse. To check, simply disconnect the
voltage regulator/rectifier from the circuit.
If the fuse still burns, check for a defective wire.
CAUTION: Do not use a higher rated fuse as this
can cause severe damage.
Voltage Regulator/Rectifier
STATIC TEST: CONTINUITY
1. Due to internal circuitry, there is no static test
available.
DYNAMIC TEST
Current Test
Proceed as follows:
? Start engine.
? Lay an inductive ammeter on positive cable of
battery.
? Bring engine to approximately 3500 RPM.
Depending on battery charge, current reading
should be approximately 5 amperes. If not, check
magneto output prior to concluding that voltage
regulator/rectifier is faulty.
Voltage Test
Proceed as follows:
? Start engine.
? Connect a multimeter to battery posts. Set mul-timeter
to Vdc scale.
? Bring engine to approximately 3500 RPM.
If multimeter reads over 15 volts, voltage regulator/
rectifier is defective. Replace it.
NOTE: Whatever the voltmeter type used (peak
voltage or RMS), the voltage must not exceed
15 V. A faulty voltage regulator/rectifier will allow
voltage to exceed 15 V as engine speed is in-creased.
NOTE: If the battery will not stay charged, the
problem can be any of the charging circuit compo-nents.
If these all check good, you would be accu-rate
in assuming the problem to be in the voltage
regulator/rectifier.
If there is no charging at the battery with the pre-ceding
voltage test, the following test can also be
performed.
NOTE: If the voltage regulator/rectifier is within
the specification, the wiring harness between the
voltage regulator/rectifier and battery is defective.
If the voltage regulator/rectifier is out of specifica-tion
and the stator test good, the voltage regulator/
rectifier is defective.