hard shifting, too much power at idle
#1
This 4 x 4 shifts fine when cold (needs no choke to start) but is near impossible to shift when warmed up. I saw in the manual that high idle can make it hard to shift... How do I turn it down? Where's the idle screw?
I've not pulled any plastic but the only thing I'm seeing is the **** / screw in the side top of carb.
Thanks for your help.
Russ
I've not pulled any plastic but the only thing I'm seeing is the **** / screw in the side top of carb.
Thanks for your help.
Russ
#3
Your Idle Screw must be right there on the Carb somewhere. What I would do, is just start it up and turn one of the screws a little bit. You do not have to turn much, and if the idle does not change, then put that screw back where you started and try another.
I know our carbs well, and I always end up starting with the wrong one.
I know our carbs well, and I always end up starting with the wrong one.
#4
flagmanruss
Remove right side panel and look for **** at end of flex line, and turn counterclockwise to lower idle. Do the adjustment when machine is fully warmed. Dont forget you have to sometimes rock the Bombardiers to shift
Remove right side panel and look for **** at end of flex line, and turn counterclockwise to lower idle. Do the adjustment when machine is fully warmed. Dont forget you have to sometimes rock the Bombardiers to shift
#5
Thanks guys... I haven't taken the side plastic off yet. With the seat removed, on the right side, I can see a really large screw into a round housing with what looks like a push pull cable running to it... Thinking it might be the throttle stop, I tried moving the **** but it didn't seem to make any difference.
I've no experience with modern machines... I worked on gas engine boat engines long ago in a previous life.
My thoughts are:
To check the choke (the dash end in floating but appears to work. Haven't needed it to start.)
As machine had been sitting... run some gum out through it.
Any more ideas, I'm all ears.
Russ
I've no experience with modern machines... I worked on gas engine boat engines long ago in a previous life.
My thoughts are:
To check the choke (the dash end in floating but appears to work. Haven't needed it to start.)
As machine had been sitting... run some gum out through it.
Any more ideas, I'm all ears.
Russ
#6
I had the exact same problem on my Outty 800. Believe it or not it was bearing or clutch on my drive belt assembly. It was caused by muddy water getting sucked down in the belt compartment. If your bike is similar to mine, take off the large cover on the left hand side where the belt is, and inspect for corroded parts.
I too tried to find the idle adjustment, but that was not it. It was very hard to shift (automatic) and when I would be in gear, the bike would actually "go" when I was not giving it gas.
One other thing that might tell you if it was the idle is the rpm's if you have a display on your bike. Mine was still idleing at the proper rpm's even though it wanted to go while idleing.
I too tried to find the idle adjustment, but that was not it. It was very hard to shift (automatic) and when I would be in gear, the bike would actually "go" when I was not giving it gas.
One other thing that might tell you if it was the idle is the rpm's if you have a display on your bike. Mine was still idleing at the proper rpm's even though it wanted to go while idleing.
#7
Thankyou for this insight. I do indeed have a cover on the left side. My machine does not want to "go" at idle but it's still worth a check.
Thanks again, Russ
Thanks again, Russ
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#8
OK, what I thought was a cover on the left, was just a plastic shield on the metal above the foot peg. So is the large metal housing behind it where I should be looking? Anyone know if this is the right track before I start removing body plastic to get to it?
Thanks, Russ
Thanks, Russ
#9
Here is a hint for when you are working on your bike. Go to a site such as bikebandit.com or another bike part sight. Click on parts, then enter your year and model bike. It will give you a list of areas (suspension), (Electrical), (steering), and so forth. Click on the area that you are working with. These diagrams that appear will give you a detailed picture of every nut and bolt on your bike. This will let you know what is behind ever cover before you even pick up a tool.
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