RW 45mm choke setup
#1
#2
Since the HRS series carb was designed for Harley-Davidson motor cycles, the choke and bracket were set up for those bikes as well. I zip tied the bracket to the frame to prevent it from dangling.
The choke cable does not seat in the carb very well and may not be working properly for you if the cable is not properly seated. I have also noticed that once the choke is on, if I push the throttle, the choke will "come off". This is handy to prevent riding with the choke on, but can make it a pain to warm up some times. I'm not sure if this is designed to work that way, but I don't mind it.
I have found that I had to change the set up signifacanly, but then again, I'm running alot more motor than stock. I found that I had to lean the main a great deal[137.5-140] and install a richer needle set with the clip all the way down[needle all the way up]. Befor changing the needle, a richer main[145] gave me more low and mid as well a smoother overall power curve, but cost me around 3 peak HP. I'm not sure if this info will help in your tuning at all, but I thought I'd share what I found out on the dyno about the HRS carb on my Team Pami motor
The choke cable does not seat in the carb very well and may not be working properly for you if the cable is not properly seated. I have also noticed that once the choke is on, if I push the throttle, the choke will "come off". This is handy to prevent riding with the choke on, but can make it a pain to warm up some times. I'm not sure if this is designed to work that way, but I don't mind it.
I have found that I had to change the set up signifacanly, but then again, I'm running alot more motor than stock. I found that I had to lean the main a great deal[137.5-140] and install a richer needle set with the clip all the way down[needle all the way up]. Befor changing the needle, a richer main[145] gave me more low and mid as well a smoother overall power curve, but cost me around 3 peak HP. I'm not sure if this info will help in your tuning at all, but I thought I'd share what I found out on the dyno about the HRS carb on my Team Pami motor
#5
The easiest way to help ensure the cable stays seated is to mount it in a place that pushes it into the carb. If there is any tention on the cable, it unseats easily. My cable loops up and the bracket is zip tied to the frame. With the angle of the tube that it is ties to, any movement will only push it into the carb even more.
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