Thanks blackhawk bt preformance in mesa was on the list ill run by monday.

 

Went back to the dunes today. Within five or six drag race passes (back to back) the red warning light came on. Went back in and allowed the engine to cool. Went back out and raced a few more times and the light returned. Off a hint i decided to continue riding the bike in about third gear for awhile and the light went off. In drag racing the fans can't cool the four wheeler enough. Can i get a cooler thermostat for the ds and if so where? I'm also going to order aluminum radiator shrouds from alba. Does anyone know any other ways to keep the ds cooler besides thining the coolent ratio. Freezing is not a problem here in Louisiana. What ratio should I be using to prevent heating problems and corrosion?

 

I researched the indoor industrial equipment I maintain a little further yesterday, to find that the heat transfer fluid I always thought was glycol is actually 80/20 water/glycol- same ratio Rockey recommends. If this is good enough corrosion protection for steel and iron in this equipment, then I'd say its well good enough for aluminum too.
I'll be getting some distilled wtaer at the store today, and dillutng mine...

 

<< No fan needed to cool the Pig. >>



You would still make me feel better if you put the fan back on[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img].

One factor that every one seams to be over looking, is jetting. The Sandpig is usually run rather rich[as evedent from the piston top and plugs] so it won't have the same heat in it that a leaner running bike has. If your running closer to ideal[as judged by the plugs], you may see more heating issues than the pig. If your running on the lean side, you'll be hot!

If your dealer[were you couldn't get it to over heat] is at a higher altitude than the riding area you over heat at, jetting could definatly be the cause.

Although power is not as dramaticly effected on a 4-stroke thats not correctly jetted, [when compaired to a 2-stokes problems when slightly off], the combustion temperatures are effected just as much.

1BigDSRider, Try bumping the main jet up a bit, and see if you still have the same heating problems.

 

Jetting was brought up back on the first page of this thread...

 

<< Jetting was brought up back on the first page of this thread... >>


Sorry, I guess I missed it. I started reading it late. Hightower called it first, and I think he may be right. Jetting has alot more ot do with your temp than alot of people give credit to. I guess I missed it because everyone ignored your comment about it, hightower. How dare they! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

hey Knutz, while your attention is here, I need you phone number to place an order for some clutch springs. Or do you have a website? How do people normally order from you?
My DS can't handle speed shifting in sand drags....slips every gear!

 

http://www.bio.flinders.edu.au/austi...l_Coolants.htm

I stumbled across the above site about Glycol - it says that you need 30% glycol in your water for adequate corrosion protection. It just some dude's write-up, don't know what the facts are based on.

 

http://www.carcarepros.com/RedlineWatterWetter.html

Here's some more interesting info - very, very informative on the Water Wetter product.

They claim that it alone added to water increases the heat transferability of water, and is an excellent corrosion inhibitor. No antifreeze properties though, if its cold where you live you gotta use enough glycol to keep from freezing, but no more than necesary tested with a hydromoter. Something like 70/30 water/glycol with a few ounces of Water Wetter cools as well as water alone, but is freeze resistant and corrosion resistant.