ds650 Rev limiter question for a newbie...
#1
So let me get this striaght,, I can baiscly run it max throtle and not blow the engine in any Gear?? Cool
Why would I replace it? to get a few more RPMS? are those RPM on the back side of the power curve? if so why would I want them? I don't need to go 100mph just a pondering question I have..
Why would I replace it? to get a few more RPMS? are those RPM on the back side of the power curve? if so why would I want them? I don't need to go 100mph just a pondering question I have..
#4
If you hit the rev limiter, shift to the next gear. Max HP is at 6700 for a stock motor anyway.
RWR and Pami CDI's have increased ignition timing advance, which increases the max HP rpm to the point that there is gain after 7000rpm, and this is where the biggest gain lies - not just the ellimination of the limiter. I still don't rev past 8500 though. There is a responsibility involved with a CDI with no limiter - its no big deal, you have control, your thumb is on the throttle, if you blow it up its your fault. You can hear it rev, you know when its time to shift, and if you're not confident in that then get a tach. The only real issue you have no control over is a stuck throttle after a wipeout - this is where a tether kill comes in.
The added HP and torque offered by the aftermarket CDI is worth the $300, and the lack of rev limit will only hurt you if you let it.
RWR and Pami CDI's have increased ignition timing advance, which increases the max HP rpm to the point that there is gain after 7000rpm, and this is where the biggest gain lies - not just the ellimination of the limiter. I still don't rev past 8500 though. There is a responsibility involved with a CDI with no limiter - its no big deal, you have control, your thumb is on the throttle, if you blow it up its your fault. You can hear it rev, you know when its time to shift, and if you're not confident in that then get a tach. The only real issue you have no control over is a stuck throttle after a wipeout - this is where a tether kill comes in.
The added HP and torque offered by the aftermarket CDI is worth the $300, and the lack of rev limit will only hurt you if you let it.
#6
They are equal in performance and respect, dynos have showed the same results. They are probably made at the same factory.
I heard somewhere (uncomfirmed) that they are both made for Rotax, under Rotax specs, that they are the same boxes used on the BMW F650, and that the actual stock box from Bomb is the real aftermarket, which could explain its inferiority. Of course, this is just gossip, don't know for sure.
I heard somewhere (uncomfirmed) that they are both made for Rotax, under Rotax specs, that they are the same boxes used on the BMW F650, and that the actual stock box from Bomb is the real aftermarket, which could explain its inferiority. Of course, this is just gossip, don't know for sure.
#7
I bought the Alba cdi box, a week ago and I love it. Before when i raced my older brother we would be real close. Now with the cdi box I gained about a bike and a half on him. It allows me to stay in the powerband when shifting unlike before. It makes a difference to me. I didn't want to get the pami or woods boxes because I like to drag race alot. Didn't want to pop the motor so i opted for a box that just extended the rpm band instead of elimanating it all together. Graydon also has a cdi box that just gives more rpms instead of eliminating it.
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#8
Does anyone make a CDI box with a limiter, just a higher limiter that also advances the timing? My second gear shift fork is f***ed up, and when I jam the throttle in second gear, to do wheelies, sometimes it pops back into neutral, and the engine revs up. Ut just revs up briefly, and I don't even think it hits the limiter. I need a CDI because I hit the damn limiter in every gear! What should I get?
#9
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Steeldon
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09-09-2015 09:38 AM
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