CAN-AM (BRP) Discussions about CAN-AM ATVs.

changing cams and piston

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  #1  
Old 10-14-2002 | 07:09 PM
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Default changing cams and piston

got cams springs and a piston, and wondering how hard it is to do the work myself. i have a shop manual, and the tools it seems. kind of would like to do it myself, if it isn't to bad, i've done alot of 2 strokes . and a couple of cars but never a 4 stroke bike . but oeverall the manual looks clear. thanks for any input.
 
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Old 10-14-2002 | 07:30 PM
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Default changing cams and piston

no, the job isn't too bad at all. just watch the torque specs.
also you will need to build or buy the special valve spring compressor, but thats it as far as specialty tools.
the only real pain i had was getting the head off ( because of clearance)
good luck.

tips:
don't reuse the nuts that hold the head on, they will strip out.
don't forget proper break-in after the hard work.
 
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Old 10-14-2002 | 11:10 PM
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Default changing cams and piston

when my bro n i rebuilt my old 84' lt185 i found the hardest part is setting the timing, but i never changed the valves myself
 
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Old 10-15-2002 | 12:12 PM
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Default changing cams and piston

Glamisds650 you are talking about the 4 large nuts only or due need to replace the four smaller bolts all so
 
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Old 10-15-2002 | 09:03 PM
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Default changing cams and piston

only had a problem with the four nuts[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
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Old 10-15-2002 | 09:13 PM
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Default changing cams and piston

Thanks I have them on order.
 
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Old 10-15-2002 | 09:53 PM
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Default changing cams and piston

bill, i had the markings checked out. they are not hardened. they are your regular run of the mill flanged nuts. i guess they are that way so you don't damage the studs. cost should be about .20 a piece at the hardware store.
 
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Old 10-15-2002 | 10:48 PM
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Default changing cams and piston

OUCH! I just paid $ 3.00 Ea
 
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Old 10-15-2002 | 11:59 PM
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Default changing cams and piston

sorry bill, i should have stated that first.
 
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Old 10-16-2002 | 02:31 AM
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Default changing cams and piston

Dont worry bill it is better you use the factory nuts. You will be hard pressed to find the right ones anywhere else. You need that flange on the bottom to keep from putting unnecessary strain on the head. You could crack it. Just remember one thing don't use any lubrication on those threads! Put the nuts on dry and torque them to 44 ft. lbs. do it 7 lbs. at a time in a cross pattern. And no you don't have to replace the other bolts. Gary at TVI has the new head studs in that are a hell of a lot better than stock but they are a little pricey though, but they would be worth it, I will buy some next time I need some head work done. Good luck. If you have any questions or problems you can pm me and I would be glad to help.
 


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