purchased three wheeler today not running. only 150.00 great shape motor rebuilt. will not start it is getting fire but what i am used to seeing it dont look to hot. new plug also. this is the stupid test. i can ground myself and hold a screwdriver in the plug wire it only tingles. what should i start looking for. it is getting gas

 

i would check the flywheel magnets and the coils under the flywheel for rust and corrosion. they are under the recoil assembly, and are exposed to water if water gets in through the recoil rope hole. The water doesnt come back out either, it sits in there and rusts every thing up. My buddy has a 1981 or 1982 ATC 200 (might be the same as yours?) and his is doing that, he has to take the recoil off every time he gets home for the weekend to drain the water to keep it from rusting.

if every thing looks ok there, maybe try a different coil or coil wire. Timing could be off too, buy a manual to find the timing checking procedure, There is a plug to take out of the flywheel cover and an "F" mark and a "T" mark on the flywheel that are supposed to be lined up in that hole under certain conditions.

I believe the "T" is top dead center, so whenever the piston is at the top the "T" should be in the hole, and at IDLE the "F" should be lined up whenever the spark plug fires, which is a little before top dead center. There is also a cover by the end of the camshaft that you take off too, there's some marks up there to line up too, but i dont know for sure so maybe try a manual first.

 

got it going great. if you get on it hard it will slip a little when changing gears for only about a second. is that adjustible ? it has been sitting for about 5 years. someone rebuilt the engine it pulls great.

 

i'm assuming you already changed oil? If not, warm it up and drain the oil and pull the right side case cover off. There is a cover on the end of the crankshaft held on with 3 bolts, take the cover off and clean this out. There should be a bunch of metal caked in there. This is called the "oil filter rotor" and should be cleaned out at least once a year. The metal collects in there and since it's spinning at such a high rpm, the solid particles get slung to the outside and stay there. This is the very primitive oil filtration system that this machine has. There is also a screen behind the drain plug for the oil pump pick-up, clean that out too when you take the plug out.

Since you have that case cover off, might be a good idea to see if you can get new clutch plates for the 'change clutch' (smaller clutch towards rear of engine, held on with 4 or 5 screws and under spring pressure) and SPRINGS for that, and new clutch shoes for the primary clutch. the springs sag after time and get weak, then the clutch wont hold and will slip) It's a bit of a job taking that case cover off, so it's probably better to clean the rotor and put the new clutch parts in it all at once. Might cost some money, but you'll be good to go for quite a while.
If you do put new friction discs in, soak them overnight in wet clutch compatible MOTORCYCLE oil Meeting JASO MA spec's. Honda gn-4 is 10w40 is great. Might be a good idea to do the same with the primary clutch shoes too. Whatever oil you use, make sure you get motorcycle oil that is safe for wet clutches. I cannot stress how important this is, especially for that engine. There is not much for filtering, and that clutch system is really sensitive to oil type. if in doubt, buy the Honda gn-4 oil, or the HP-4 WITHOUT moly. in 10w40 viscosity.

when you're ready to put it back together, use silicone on the case halves, and tilt the machine to the side to keep the excess oil from touching the fresh silicone. Let it sit overnight before filling it up with oil.

Now the next part i would buy a manual for, because I might be backwards on clockwise vs. counter-clockwise. My buddy has one of these machines, but i forget on which way the screw turns.

adjust the clutch by using the lock-nut and screw mounted on the outside of the case. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw clockwise a couple turns, then go counter-clockwise until you feel slight resistance (this is the point at which the clutch mechanism starts to push on the pressure plate to dis-engage the change clutch) then go back a 1/4 turn clock wise and hold the screw there while tightening the lock nut. This is the free-play adjustment to allow the change clutch to fully-engage when you take your foot off the shifter. (again, check with a manual to be sure or you could seriously damage something)

Now, with oil in it, take it out for a ride and BE GENTLE for a bit. The new plates and clutch material has to seat in, and if you beat on it and slip it too much, they will glaze over and you'll have to do it all over again.

Now MOST IMPORTANTLY you must do this next step....



HAVE FUN WITH IT [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

thank you so much for the info. it is quite helpfull