My problem is the entire electrical system is out. When I turn on the key I get nothing on the screen, no lights, no shift, etc... The bike will start by shifting manually and using the pull cord. Once running I can shift with the manual handle only and the lights are on and everything on the screen is blinking I guess with timing of the alternator. It started about a week ago after sprayer was hooked to battery. Sprayer would appear to run the battery down (screen and shifting went out and then went to blinking but in no code type pattern) and once key was off and on again everything worked until the last time. It went out completely then I went to fix it and it worked again enough to start and back out of shed then it went out and hasn't come back.

I have a service manual and ohm/volt meter and have been running through suggested tests. Trying to avoid taking it to a dealer money is tight right now so I need to fix myself.

Have a new battery and fuses are good so the obvious is out. I have tested the angle sensor with an ohm meter and readings are normal. The starter relay by the battery readings are normal. All wires and connections appear to be in good shape. Could it be my ignition switch because there seems to be a loose click when the key is turned on? Any other suggesstions would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the length but I just miss riding and I need it soon for hunting. Thanks.

 

This is only the second problem I have ever had out of this machine. When I first bought it the electric shift went out and it was the dealers fault (when it came out of the crate a wire was not connected tight enough and bounced loose) Problem fixed 7 years ago and nothing has gone wrong since then.

 

I'm not sure how that is wired, but check to see where the hot wire goes first from the battery. If it goes directly to the starter selenoid, make sure it is tight there. I have had the hot wire to the starter come loose on pick-ups before creating the same problem you have. You may also be correct thinking it may be the starter switch. Just start at the batttery, check voltage at every connecting point. It's better if you can Load-Test it with a big light or something. It may show the 12V, but not able to carry a load. It really sounds like a loose connection to me though. Battery connections are clean?

 

Battery connections are clean...I'll keeping on tracing and retracing wires. Thanks for the advice...I'll keep you updated

 

mhackett,
Are you making any progress on your electrical problem? What have you checked so far? The exact same thing happened to me today and I have not started trouble shooting it yet other than checking the battery voltage. I don't even know where the fuses are located, do you?

 

The fuses are located under the seat behind the battery in a black rectangular case. I have checked battery voltage, starter relay continuity, angle sensor continuity, gear position switch plug continuity (I think it is this because I never got a reading???) but the gear switch itself is located inside the rear crankcase cover and from what I understand the engine has to be removed from the frame to get to this which means I am not going to attempt to go further. I'll check it and other possibilities again just to be sure but it looks like the dealer is going get my business here soon.

 

Remove and clean battery cables and posts, trace battery ground cable to frame mount point; remove cable and clean there. With battery disconnected, pull out all fuses and test for continuity; just because they look fine don't mean they are. They can have microscopic breaks you can't see. Clean fuse contacts in fuse box with WD-40 or similar sprayed on a rag, wrapped around a tiny screwdriver. Dirt, dust, moisture, and corrosion can break an electrical circuit. Since the quad is 7 years old, you could have gunk in there.

Check harness diagram for fusible links, maybe one melted under the strain of the sprayer and old age. And replace the ignition switch.

 

I had a chance to look at my Rancher today. Looks like I have a battery problem even though the no-load voltage is okay. I hooked my truck battery up to the ATV via jumper cables and everything worked fine. My battery is not quite a year old and has never shown signs of weakness or failure. The OEM battery lasted 5 years so I was expecting this one to last longer. Maybe you have a defective battery? It is easy to check if you have a set of jumper cables and it might save you a trip to the dealer. I also was using a sprayer hooked directly to my battery a few weeks ago.

 

I recall reading a post somewhere of someone with a similar problem. For them it turned out to be the brake light switch on the foot brake. It was faulty and was grounding the whole wiring harness out. Check the switch and ground wire, and check the light housing for corrosion and moisture.

 

mhackett,
Just wanted you to know that my problems were solved when I installed a new battery. The bad battery was only one year old and had just started the engine 10 minutes earlier with no sign of weakness.