reconranger, some oil filters are pretty well constructed. They can keep filtering long past the 5000 mark. A good way to tell if you filter is still doing its job is to feel it when the engine has just ran. If the oil filter is hot, that means the oil has been going through and is being filtered. If the filter is not warm, then the filter is pluged and the oil is bypassing the filter(time to change).

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: reconranger

Not quite sure what you meant by GN4 having to meet cat converter specs and not having as good an additive package???? GN4 isn't my favorite oil by any means, but from the VOA's that I have seen, it has at least a respectable additive package.

If you want a monster additive package, then go with Maxima. Their oils are double most other motorcycle oils. If you are working on the cheap, their Premium (basic petroleum oil) goes for around $4 a liter (bigger than a quart), which makes it in the ballpark with your Valvoline.....

[/L]</end quote></div>

Yes you got that right, a litre is bigger than a quart (1000cc to be exact) a quart is something around 950cc? 946cc? i have no idea

I run purepolaris 0w40 synthetic- brp recommends their own 5w40 oil for $15.49 canadian a quart, but i dont feel like spending THAT much money on oil. The purepolaris stuff i got for $25 per gallon i think (3750cc, is that a gallon? i think so) so that works out to $6.25 a quart? i change the oil every 15-25 hours-when ever it begins to darkern (i havent let it go to completely black) But im not complaining, a friend with a 06 crf250r changes the oil every 5 hours or so for $10 a quart... now thats a lot of money if you put in 150 hours a year

 

Speaking of oil filters, I doubt any motorcycle filter gets anywhere near to catching the 40 uM particles of the average automotive filter.

The better automotive filters will do 10 uM, but you will have to look to find them. As I recall, plain bearing tolerances on automotive engines are less than 40uM, so any particle bigger than that isn't going to be covered by oil, and it's going to be grinding on some metal.....

 

Where it applies to oil changes, the slight difference in volume between a quart and liter make them practically interchangeable:

In the tidy base 10 metric system 1 liter = 1000cc, where 1 quart [US, liquid] = 946.353 cubic centimeters. 1 ounce [US, liquid] = 29.574 cubic centimeters

For those of us accustomed to US weights and measures, it might be easier to think of the difference in terms of ounces. 1 US quart = 32 ounces, 1 liter = 33.814 ounces [US, liquid].

Of course there are many more systems of measurement is use ... UK liquid ounces are different again. I often make use of this handy Web Page For Volume Conversions. Or see their home page at ONLINECONVERSION.COM for converting just about anything, such as length, speed, area, power, clothing sizes, you name it.

 

Am changeing over to Valvoline ATV oil have been using the Honda oil but dont
care for our local dealer so will buy from Auto Zone from now on!

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: reconranger

Speaking of oil filters, I doubt any motorcycle filter gets anywhere near to catching the 40 uM particles of the average automotive filter.



The better automotive filters will do 10 uM, but you will have to look to find them. As I recall, plain bearing tolerances on automotive engines are less than 40uM, so any particle bigger than that isn't going to be covered by oil, and it's going to be grinding on some metal.....</end quote></div>

The K&N oil filter and the Amsoil oil filters are the only ones I know that filter that much out. Could be more though.