new 400ex, break in? when should 1st oil change be?
#1
new 400ex, break in? when should 1st oil change be?
I've had several atv's bikes etc.. manual says change oil after the 1st 20hrs then 100hrs from then on..I think thats what I remember reading.
however, what do you guys recommend? I have approx. 3hrs on it now. I was harder on this one than my others on the break in. On fourtrax 300's I've had in the past I babied them for several days..However, on this 400ex I rode it pretty easy for about 20mins then I was going through the gears at sometimes full throttle..hope I haven't jumped the gun and it come back and bite me!
also on the oil I bought Pro Honda GN4 10w40 oil when I bought it....then got home and read the manual it says 10w30 then a page over where it covers what you CAN use says 10w30 or 10w40 or I think 5w30 depending on your climate..I'm in SC figure I should stay with the 10w40 or swap it for the 10w30 next time I'm at the dealer...I'm sure they would do it.
*one other thing do new atv's come with oil in them or do the dealers put it in? I figured the initial oil is a break in oil whether it be thicker or thinner and come in them from honda???
reason I ask the above question is mine is overfilled..it is approx. the width of my pinky finger over the full mark when I check it and no I'm not screwing the dip stick in to check it..I may drain a tad out think this will hurt anything?
however, what do you guys recommend? I have approx. 3hrs on it now. I was harder on this one than my others on the break in. On fourtrax 300's I've had in the past I babied them for several days..However, on this 400ex I rode it pretty easy for about 20mins then I was going through the gears at sometimes full throttle..hope I haven't jumped the gun and it come back and bite me!
also on the oil I bought Pro Honda GN4 10w40 oil when I bought it....then got home and read the manual it says 10w30 then a page over where it covers what you CAN use says 10w30 or 10w40 or I think 5w30 depending on your climate..I'm in SC figure I should stay with the 10w40 or swap it for the 10w30 next time I'm at the dealer...I'm sure they would do it.
*one other thing do new atv's come with oil in them or do the dealers put it in? I figured the initial oil is a break in oil whether it be thicker or thinner and come in them from honda???
reason I ask the above question is mine is overfilled..it is approx. the width of my pinky finger over the full mark when I check it and no I'm not screwing the dip stick in to check it..I may drain a tad out think this will hurt anything?
#2
new 400ex, break in? when should 1st oil change be?
I think you are fine getting on it during break in. Actually rings need heat and pressure to seat, running it through the gears and occasionally using full throttle would be optimal break in IMHO.
I wouldn't sit there at full throttle for long periods of time or let it bounce off the rev limiter, or run it at the same RPM/speed for long periods, but don't be afraid to get on it.
Oil change wise, doing the oil and filter early, say now, would get break in material out of the oil and wouldn't hurt anything, but don't use synthetic until the machine is fully broken in. GN4 would be fine, and I think 10w40 would be OK in a warm climate.
I wouldn't sit there at full throttle for long periods of time or let it bounce off the rev limiter, or run it at the same RPM/speed for long periods, but don't be afraid to get on it.
Oil change wise, doing the oil and filter early, say now, would get break in material out of the oil and wouldn't hurt anything, but don't use synthetic until the machine is fully broken in. GN4 would be fine, and I think 10w40 would be OK in a warm climate.
#3
new 400ex, break in? when should 1st oil change be?
I wouldnt go to 5w 30, and would probably use the 10w 40. As long as the container has the JASO rating, for wet clutch compatable..its good oil. Use whatever brand you want. Id go at least the full 20 hours, no sense in throwing away good oil, early.
#4
new 400ex, break in? when should 1st oil change be?
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Break it in hard, otherwise the rings will never seat correctly. If you have 3 hrs. on it already, it's to late...but take heart, they dino them at the factory (but just once) and that helps....
A real good read on oil for your EX: http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm
Good read on synthetics: http://www.p1-performance.com/pdf/oildoc.pdf
You want to use a petroleum oil (like GN4) during break-in. After that, you can switch to synthetic if you wish. If you always pick a motorcycle specific oil that is API SG/JASO MA, you won't go far wrong. (Remember, you aren't just lubing an engine, you are lubing a transmission as well, so your oil needs a robust additive package). I perfer the ester synthetics like RedLine, Maxima, Klotz, or Motul....but they are all pricey, so a lot of shops don't carry them (but you can find them on-line). Run Honda HP4 (without moly) if you can't find anything else.
I always change my oil and oil filter at 1 hour. This gets any shavings left over from machining out of the engine right away. My experience has been that Hondas and Suzukis do come very clean from the factory, and Yamahas come absolutely filthy.
Oil change: http://www.atvriders.com/articles/oilchange400ex.html
That oil change interval in the owner's manual (100 hours) is way way to long!!! Every manufacturer has a vested interest in presenting their vehicles as being "low maintenence". Those long intervals are based on ideal conditions (like no dust), that don't exist in the real world. For me, an oil change about every 20 hours or so is what works best. (I bought my 400EX in 99, and it has thousands of miles on it....original motor and clutch. Rode 100 miles on it yesterday....take care of your EX and it will take care of you!!!)
As far as the weight of the oil, most folks in North America should probably run 10W40 in summer and 5W30 in winter. If one lives where the climate is cooler (high altitude or the fozen north), then 10W30 in summer and 0W30 in winter. If one lives in the very hot south, then 20W50 in summer and maybe 10W30 in winter. (Keep in mind that the cam area of the EX will benefit from high quality oil, and oil that tends to be on the heavy side.)
Break it in hard, otherwise the rings will never seat correctly. If you have 3 hrs. on it already, it's to late...but take heart, they dino them at the factory (but just once) and that helps....
A real good read on oil for your EX: http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm
Good read on synthetics: http://www.p1-performance.com/pdf/oildoc.pdf
You want to use a petroleum oil (like GN4) during break-in. After that, you can switch to synthetic if you wish. If you always pick a motorcycle specific oil that is API SG/JASO MA, you won't go far wrong. (Remember, you aren't just lubing an engine, you are lubing a transmission as well, so your oil needs a robust additive package). I perfer the ester synthetics like RedLine, Maxima, Klotz, or Motul....but they are all pricey, so a lot of shops don't carry them (but you can find them on-line). Run Honda HP4 (without moly) if you can't find anything else.
I always change my oil and oil filter at 1 hour. This gets any shavings left over from machining out of the engine right away. My experience has been that Hondas and Suzukis do come very clean from the factory, and Yamahas come absolutely filthy.
Oil change: http://www.atvriders.com/articles/oilchange400ex.html
That oil change interval in the owner's manual (100 hours) is way way to long!!! Every manufacturer has a vested interest in presenting their vehicles as being "low maintenence". Those long intervals are based on ideal conditions (like no dust), that don't exist in the real world. For me, an oil change about every 20 hours or so is what works best. (I bought my 400EX in 99, and it has thousands of miles on it....original motor and clutch. Rode 100 miles on it yesterday....take care of your EX and it will take care of you!!!)
As far as the weight of the oil, most folks in North America should probably run 10W40 in summer and 5W30 in winter. If one lives where the climate is cooler (high altitude or the fozen north), then 10W30 in summer and 0W30 in winter. If one lives in the very hot south, then 20W50 in summer and maybe 10W30 in winter. (Keep in mind that the cam area of the EX will benefit from high quality oil, and oil that tends to be on the heavy side.)
#5
new 400ex, break in? when should 1st oil change be?
Be absolutely sure you do not put the oil filter in backward!!! This will destroy your engine! You wouldn't think this would be an issue....but it happens now and then!
The spring goes inside, and the black rubber washer on the filter faces toward the outside of the engine (it seats on a nipple that is on the cover). Factory filters are clearly marked, but aftermarket are not!
http://www.atvriders.com/articles/oilchange400ex.html
The spring goes inside, and the black rubber washer on the filter faces toward the outside of the engine (it seats on a nipple that is on the cover). Factory filters are clearly marked, but aftermarket are not!
http://www.atvriders.com/articles/oilchange400ex.html
#7
new 400ex, break in? when should 1st oil change be?
thanks for the tips guys, as far as them dynoing it one time b4 it leaves the plant that tells me these DO come factory oil filled..?? or no if not how did they dyno it lol.
and I do plan on doing a valve adjustment at 20hrs or so the valves started to "tick" a little after getting it off the truck and letting it idle for 10 secs......my fourtrax 300 never ticked until a year after I bought it new so I was surprised to hear that so early but maybe thats normal with the 400ex/xr400 motor.
and I do plan on doing a valve adjustment at 20hrs or so the valves started to "tick" a little after getting it off the truck and letting it idle for 10 secs......my fourtrax 300 never ticked until a year after I bought it new so I was surprised to hear that so early but maybe thats normal with the 400ex/xr400 motor.
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#8
new 400ex, break in? when should 1st oil change be?
Some light ticking on those (and most new hondas) seems to be normal...
Ditto on the advice about not neglecting the valve adjustment.
Also, as highly refined as Honda's engineering is, it really surprises me that they set up the oil filter in such a way that it can be put in backwards, and that it blocks oil flow if you do. It seems to me they could have cast a little tube in the center of the cover that goes down into the center of the element, so a person couldn't put the cover on with a filter element in wrong....
Ditto on the advice about not neglecting the valve adjustment.
Also, as highly refined as Honda's engineering is, it really surprises me that they set up the oil filter in such a way that it can be put in backwards, and that it blocks oil flow if you do. It seems to me they could have cast a little tube in the center of the cover that goes down into the center of the element, so a person couldn't put the cover on with a filter element in wrong....
#10
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