Metal spacer under oil filter omittance?
#1
Metal spacer under oil filter omittance?
Hi, own a second hand 2001 Rubicon, first time changing the oil/filter:
I didn't realize that there was a metal spacer/washer that is seated on top of the spring of the oil filler when I changed it. I saw it my manual (which isn't highlighted much) after I was done changing the oil and filter. It was still in the old oil filter that I had thrown in the garbage. How much oil will I lose if I just remove the filter to re-insatll that metal washer? Will all the oil come flowing out? It's darn cold here, could I wait till spring?
Thanks anyone.
I didn't realize that there was a metal spacer/washer that is seated on top of the spring of the oil filler when I changed it. I saw it my manual (which isn't highlighted much) after I was done changing the oil and filter. It was still in the old oil filter that I had thrown in the garbage. How much oil will I lose if I just remove the filter to re-insatll that metal washer? Will all the oil come flowing out? It's darn cold here, could I wait till spring?
Thanks anyone.
#3
So you're saying I won't lose all the nearly 5 litres of oil, perhaps only the amount that the filter and housing would hold? You must be wondering why change the oil in January? My hour meeter was flashing and I thought it meant my oil needed changing. Should have read the manual first, not after because there's a pop up on the dash that reads "oil change". Oh well, won't be doing that in the winter anymore, my garage is not insulated, yet, lol.
Last edited by sweetmarie; 01-03-2010 at 08:54 PM. Reason: typo
#4
#5
SM
#7
Thanks for the head up. I bought it from my neighbor 4 doors down the street. I've know him for years and he has all kinds of toys with a semi-heated garage, takes care of his stuff. This ATV is in very good shape but it wouldn't hurt to check the fluids/valves for sure.
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#8
Yeah, it has traditional chemistry coolant (ethylene glycol) that should be changed out every 2 years to prevent corrosion. Use something motorcycle specific, as automotive coolant often has silicates or other abrasives to control corrosion, which are too harsh for motorcycle type water pumps.
The axles should also be on a 2 year change cycle, more frequently if you swamp/water ride. SAE 80W rated GL-5. 75W-90 GL-5 would be fine. They don't hold much, and I alaready have a group 5 synthetic around, so I just use that (Redline).
The axles should also be on a 2 year change cycle, more frequently if you swamp/water ride. SAE 80W rated GL-5. 75W-90 GL-5 would be fine. They don't hold much, and I alaready have a group 5 synthetic around, so I just use that (Redline).
#9
Yeah, it has traditional chemistry coolant (ethylene glycol) that should be changed out every 2 years to prevent corrosion. Use something motorcycle specific, as automotive coolant often has silicates or other abrasives to control corrosion, which are too harsh for motorcycle type water pumps.
The axles should also be on a 2 year change cycle, more frequently if you swamp/water ride. SAE 80W rated GL-5. 75W-90 GL-5 would be fine. They don't hold much, and I alaready have a group 5 synthetic around, so I just use that (Redline).
The axles should also be on a 2 year change cycle, more frequently if you swamp/water ride. SAE 80W rated GL-5. 75W-90 GL-5 would be fine. They don't hold much, and I alaready have a group 5 synthetic around, so I just use that (Redline).
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