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Metal spacer under oil filter omittance?

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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 01:49 PM
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Question Metal spacer under oil filter omittance?

Hi, own a second hand 2001 Rubicon, first time changing the oil/filter:

I didn't realize that there was a metal spacer/washer that is seated on top of the spring of the oil filler when I changed it. I saw it my manual (which isn't highlighted much) after I was done changing the oil and filter. It was still in the old oil filter that I had thrown in the garbage. How much oil will I lose if I just remove the filter to re-insatll that metal washer? Will all the oil come flowing out? It's darn cold here, could I wait till spring?
Thanks anyone.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2010 | 08:22 PM
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I'd go ahead and put the washer in. I don't think you will loose much oil.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffinTD
I'd go ahead and put the washer in. I don't think you will loose much oil.
So you're saying I won't lose all the nearly 5 litres of oil, perhaps only the amount that the filter and housing would hold? You must be wondering why change the oil in January? My hour meeter was flashing and I thought it meant my oil needed changing. Should have read the manual first, not after because there's a pop up on the dash that reads "oil change". Oh well, won't be doing that in the winter anymore, my garage is not insulated, yet, lol.
 

Last edited by sweetmarie; Jan 3, 2010 at 08:54 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 08:08 AM
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I'm just making a guess based on the diagram of oil flow. The filter is between the oil pump and the engine's pressure supply.

I don't think it will dump all the oil out to pull the filter.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffinTD
I'm just making a guess based on the diagram of oil flow. The filter is between the oil pump and the engine's pressure supply.

I don't think it will dump all the oil out to pull the filter.
You were right, only lost about 1/4 litre at the most which I replaced. Thanks for your input. No more changing oil in the winter, getting too old for that....lol

SM
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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Good deal.

If the machine is new to you, it would be a good idea to do the oil in the axles and check the valves.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2010 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffinTD
Good deal.

If the machine is new to you, it would be a good idea to do the oil in the axles and check the valves.
Thanks for the head up. I bought it from my neighbor 4 doors down the street. I've know him for years and he has all kinds of toys with a semi-heated garage, takes care of his stuff. This ATV is in very good shape but it wouldn't hurt to check the fluids/valves for sure.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 10:18 AM
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Yeah, it has traditional chemistry coolant (ethylene glycol) that should be changed out every 2 years to prevent corrosion. Use something motorcycle specific, as automotive coolant often has silicates or other abrasives to control corrosion, which are too harsh for motorcycle type water pumps.

The axles should also be on a 2 year change cycle, more frequently if you swamp/water ride. SAE 80W rated GL-5. 75W-90 GL-5 would be fine. They don't hold much, and I alaready have a group 5 synthetic around, so I just use that (Redline).
 
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffinTD
Yeah, it has traditional chemistry coolant (ethylene glycol) that should be changed out every 2 years to prevent corrosion. Use something motorcycle specific, as automotive coolant often has silicates or other abrasives to control corrosion, which are too harsh for motorcycle type water pumps.

The axles should also be on a 2 year change cycle, more frequently if you swamp/water ride. SAE 80W rated GL-5. 75W-90 GL-5 would be fine. They don't hold much, and I alaready have a group 5 synthetic around, so I just use that (Redline).
Wow, thanks for the advice. Well noted.
 
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