Honda Recon 2002 Carb Clean question 250ES
#11
07-10-2013, 09:06 AM
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#12
07-29-2013, 09:02 PM
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Forget spraying it. By the time you get done monkeying around with that you could have just had the bowl off and been done with it.
Here is how to do it.
Remove any bodywork in your way.
Loosen the clamps on the airbox and also the engine side of carb/intake tract
Gently rotate the carb so you can get to the screws holding on the float bowl(you may have to unscrew the cap on top of the carb and remove the slide to get it to rotate far enough)
Carefully unscrew those four float bowl screws! They can be easy to strip!
Looking at the microfiche, it looks like there is a holder that MAY cover the pilot or slow jet. Otherwise the pilot is slotted for removal with a regular screwdriver.
Once you get that out, hold it up to the light. Can't see through it? Use some compressed air to clean it out, or maybe a small wire, blast of carb cleaner, etc.
That usually is enough to fix it. While you are in there, check the main as well as the bottom of the bowl. Any crud in the bowl and I am afraid you really should just pull the carb and clean out any passages you can get to.
Just take your time, keep a cool head, and have a service manual or access to the microfiche online in case you have trouble putting it back together. The parts are small and many are soft brass, but carb cleaning really isn't that bad if you practice patience.
Here is how to do it.
Remove any bodywork in your way.
Loosen the clamps on the airbox and also the engine side of carb/intake tract
Gently rotate the carb so you can get to the screws holding on the float bowl(you may have to unscrew the cap on top of the carb and remove the slide to get it to rotate far enough)
Carefully unscrew those four float bowl screws! They can be easy to strip!
Looking at the microfiche, it looks like there is a holder that MAY cover the pilot or slow jet. Otherwise the pilot is slotted for removal with a regular screwdriver.
Once you get that out, hold it up to the light. Can't see through it? Use some compressed air to clean it out, or maybe a small wire, blast of carb cleaner, etc.
That usually is enough to fix it. While you are in there, check the main as well as the bottom of the bowl. Any crud in the bowl and I am afraid you really should just pull the carb and clean out any passages you can get to.
Just take your time, keep a cool head, and have a service manual or access to the microfiche online in case you have trouble putting it back together. The parts are small and many are soft brass, but carb cleaning really isn't that bad if you practice patience.
I tried the approach above, however, for the Recon, there is not a clamp on the engine side of the carb, the carb is mounted by two nuts over two threaded posts. So, in order to get to the bottom float/bowl section I had to remove the airbox (of course after loosening the airbox clamp over the carb and the clamp around the air intake tube). Then, I took off the two nuts and gently pulled the carb off the post and turned it just enough (without having to remove any other hoses/cables) and removed the 3 (only 3) bowl screws. I took the bowl off and cleaned it out, there was maybe only a couple of pieces of dirt in there, not much else. I set that aside and turned the carb back over and took out the main and slow jet. I cleaned them out and then soaked them in Seafoam. Neither seemed very dirty or clogged. I sprayed the underside of the carb/float section and didn't notice any other issues. The next day I put it back together and fired it up but it does the same as before. I went ahead and played with throttle strop screw a bit and got it to idle better but then after sitting a bit on its own after 15-20 seconds, the idle will raise a bit more than it should and then after about 8-10 seconds go back down again. It doesn't die but it doesn't stay steady at a decent RPM for more than 15-20 seconds before going up again. If I let out the throttle stop screw any more it tends to want to die like before. I didn't play with the pilot screw, just the throttle stop screw.
Any suggestions?
My future plan is to get one of the rebuild kits (just has new jets, seals, and some other parts) and take it all apart but I don't plan on doing that for a while.
How bad is it to let the idle be like this? Is it damaging or just not very efficient?
#13
07-30-2013, 06:08 AM
A couple suggestions. First, it sounds like it isn't getting enough fuel at idle still. It is probably getting a lean condition causing it to idle up. I would check the o-ring and mating surface for cleanliness/seal on the carb side, the gasket set for the float bowl, and also the airbox side for a good seal. One easy way to do this is with the machine running, carefully spray a little starting fluid at those areas. If there is an air leak, the idle should rise when it gets the ether.
Second, there may be an air leak on the exhaust side, although this is much less likely. Don't try the ether method on the exhaust though, lol.
Third, if it is reliably running and starting still, I would ride it. Probably try to minimize the time it sets idling though.
Second, there may be an air leak on the exhaust side, although this is much less likely. Don't try the ether method on the exhaust though, lol.
Third, if it is reliably running and starting still, I would ride it. Probably try to minimize the time it sets idling though.
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