03 250 recon es (please help)
Oct 1, 2018 | 02:34 AM
#12
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From: Lancaster England
"Well I pull started it and it was running but no power. The neutral light won’t turn on. Pretty sure once it’s pull started it should still at least light up right? When it’s pull started and it’s running shouldn’t you still be able to use the electric shift?"
I had forgotten the 250 is still AC ignition, it is about the last Honda to have AC. The 300, 400, 450 and 500 all had a sort of hybrid DC system and wouldn't run if the ignition switch didn't allow battery or alternator power through it, but the 250 ignition is powered from an exciter coil direct to the CDI so will still run if nothing else is getting power. That is why I posted about checking the switch yesterday.
just noticed the insides of that switch seem to short both switches together, on the 250 the 2 switches inside the ignition switch must be separate, did you fit a switch for a DC ignition Honda instead of a 250?
I had forgotten the 250 is still AC ignition, it is about the last Honda to have AC. The 300, 400, 450 and 500 all had a sort of hybrid DC system and wouldn't run if the ignition switch didn't allow battery or alternator power through it, but the 250 ignition is powered from an exciter coil direct to the CDI so will still run if nothing else is getting power. That is why I posted about checking the switch yesterday.
just noticed the insides of that switch seem to short both switches together, on the 250 the 2 switches inside the ignition switch must be separate, did you fit a switch for a DC ignition Honda instead of a 250?
Oct 7, 2018 | 02:44 PM
#14
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Weekend Warrior
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Update
okay so I got another ignission switch, I wired it and it turns on! The neutral light will turn on and everything electrical seems to be working great! But of course there’s another damn problem. I hit the electric start and it will turn over but it is idling so high that the damn thing sounds like it’s going to blow up lol. I figured I just needed to adjust the idle screw but when I started to unscrew it the spring that’s loaded with the screw launched the screw out and I was lucky enough to find it but when I put the spring on the screw and try to screw it back into the carb the spring prevents it from screwing in(sorry That’s a lot of screws). Idk what it could be if I try to screw the screw in without the spring it will go in but adjusting It does nothing the atv still revs high. Any suggestions?
Oct 8, 2018 | 02:20 AM
#15
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From: Lancaster England
Seems like the throttle cable caught on something or frayed, so the slide can't go down far enough to touch the adjustment screw. The parts drawing shows an O ring or washer on that screw, and it seems to go on the screw outside the spring.
Oct 14, 2018 | 02:26 PM
#16
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Weekend Warrior
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.
okay I couldn’t find out what was wrong with the screw so I go bought another carb and now it will install perfectly the slide fits nicely etc, but now it is still idling way to high and the idle screw does nothing. It’s a cheap carb and the air adjustment screw is plated off. The atv is going to make me die of stress. Why would the atv idle so high it sounds like it’ll blow up if I don’t hit the kill switch? The throttle cable seems to be fine and the slide that goes into the carb with no resistance and I can screw on the cap easily.
Oct 15, 2018 | 02:23 AM
#17
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From: Lancaster England
The adjustment screw will not be plated off, looks like you have been turning the wrong screw. It sticks out into the carb so that the end touches the bottom of the slide, screw in and the slide doesn't go as far down. Screw out to lower the idle speed. The cable can also be adjusted by shortening or lengthening the outer cable at the control box on the handlebars. I have known people to adjust idle with this instead of using the correct one on the carb.
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