I was gonna try w/ no oil but the k&n site says that's very bad. Maybe I'll try the PJ-1. It's just so damn sticky! you think Pep Boys Auto Parts would have k&n products?? K&N DOES make car filters too...

 

i would try them before you hose it down with pj,but if you do use the pj,try spray -9 clean when you clean it.that stuff takes the stick out of sticky!!

 

K&N style oil is ok to run on a foam filter, but foam filter oil is NOT ok to put on a K&N. It will do it's job, but to get that mess cleaned out of it the next time you clean it will likely lead you to destroy your filter.

Cotton gauze type filters like the K&N require a special oil that cleans easily without harming the filter. Which the foam type oil will do.

You are correct with the assumption of the auto parts houses that sell K&N automobile filters. They will have the correct oil.

While you are there, buy the correct cleaner for the cotton gauze filter. Some [but not all] foam type cleaners will "eat away" at the cotton gauze on the K&N's.

By the way, dish soap will block the pores on the K&N's so you are going to have to clean it again before you oil it.

 

Well, I was at the Pep Boys site and they sell K&N filters for cars so I assume they'll have the oil too.

By the way, Knowsalot, while I have your attention, I'm putting a 14/46 sprocket kit on my Tecate 4 (which if you know, has a timid lowend and a hard and strong midrange and topend which revs and revs). The stock set up is 13/39. The selling point is improved power throughout...especially in the lowend. Does that seem possible that you gain low end w/ out losing any top end rev or top speed?? Stock Tecate 4's boast the highest top speed on any stock 250 ever and with my modest upgrades, I'm a few MPH even faster (approx. 77-80mph over a stock 74.81) Pride is at play here. I'll gladly bow to a similarly modded Banshee or LT500 by 2-4 MPH but I don't wanna lose out to some new 4-stroke Raptor or C-dale!!! hahaha

 

Well, gearing down will put your gears closer together and will allow you to make better use of the RPM's that you are getting now, but there is no way to gear down and not loose top end speed.

You said stock is 13/39.that's a 3.00 ratio.
You are wanting to install a 14/46.that's a 3.29 ratio.

If you want to get your hi rpm's in motion faster by gearing down, you need to try and stay small up front and do little as possible to the rear.
If you were to go down one tooth on the front and kept the rear stock[12/39], you would have a 3.25 ratio. Very close to what you say you are wanting by changing to a 14/46.

By going down on the front, chain wear will SLIGHTLY increase[not enough to worry with] but your engine will pull a lower gearing with a smaller sprocket up front much easier than it would with the combination you are planning on running. The front sprocket size is more critical than the rear when it comes to gearing. Try and stay low on the front and close as stock as possible on the rear. It makes it easier for the engine to pull. A bigger front sprocket takes more low end power to get things moving. Both on the line and in the corners.

If you are getting 80mph out of your stock gearing[3.00], with a 3.25 or a 3.29, you could probally expect 75mph to be your new top speed. I didn't use any formula to get that. Just a guess based on what I have seen by similar changes on other machines.

One more thing. If you were to put a 46 tooth sprocket on there and if you are going to be running an 18" tire, you are going to have some major ground clearance problems. Even on a motocross track.

 

.....Pep Boys has it or Checkers,Shucks,Auto Zone, or most any automotive place!

 

thats good to know.did you get to ride?

 

Well, it rained all day on sunday here so I didn't ride. BUT, at least I know I don't have to overpay at my local ATV dealer for the K&N oil.


By the way, Knowsalot, thanks for that technical breakdown of sprocket science! It's still a bit confusing but I do understand. I looked at a sprocket ratio chart on sidewinder sprockets website. My countershaft sprocket will be up one to 14 (more top) but the rear sprocket goes up 7 to 46 (more low)...I see that higher ratios mean more bottom end...3.00 (stock) to 3.29 (14/46). So what's the point of such a radical change on the rear sprocket?? By this I mean: if the RATIO is what's important, why alter the number of teeth so much?? As you pointed out, we achieve a very similar ratio with a smaller change in the number teeth. So why not get a desired ratio w/ a smaller change? Or is there more to it than just the ratio?? Does the number of teeth by itself, regardless of ratio, effect the power delivery? We can get a similar ratio with a smaller change (by just a drop of one tooth on the front sprocket from 13 to 12 as you showed). If we go 12/40, it's 3.33. 13/40 is 3.076. 13/42 is 3.23. But hey, 14/42 is 3.0 (same as stock 13/39). So would I not notice a difference here even though the tooth number is different?

Whew! Sorry it's so wordy! But you see what I'm getting at....

 

There are dozens of different sprocket combinations that will give you the exact same ratio, but "the power delivery" as you describe WILL change even if you have the same ratio. It depends on the sizes of the front and rear sprocket. Not just the ratio. Even if it's the same ratio as stock.

The main goal in gearing changes is to keep the front sprocket as small as possible without going TOO small. The front sprocket gets the most leverage of power transfer from the engine because it is smaller than the rear.

It's not just the ratio, but which sprocket was changed to achieve the ratio.

 

thanks. That subtle difference between ratio vs. no. of teeth was a bit confusing.

So then, I guess there's no magical combination that can boost the WHOLE powerband or at least boost low to mid with NO LOSS on top.

How about a low end boost via gearing and an FMF rev pipe to offset it? would that work or will I still notice a loss on top?