Is anyone using the 56 gram weights in their 650? If so, let me know what you think of them. I'm ordering tomorrow.

 

Anybody?

 

EPI tells me that the weights will keep the RPM's in the meat of the powerband. The torque peak is at 4000 RPM and the horsepower peak is at 6500 RPM. My machine will exceed 7200 RPM from 25mph to 50mph. They also recommend the black secondary spring and the STOCK primary, until they come out with their "pink" primary spring. The pink will be nearly zero preload like the stocker, but with a little more pressure once compressed.

 

Nobody? I'll order them today anyway and pick them up in the US in July. At $125 US it's a lot of money but EPI says it's worth it. They say that with the new weights the engine doesn't rev quite as hard and you sound a little slower but are actually picking up speed faster.

 

I am interested in hearing your results.

I guess 56g is heavier than the stock ones, anyone know what the stockers weigh?

 

Shotgun said he thought the stocks were 60 Gram. He's running 47 Gram for pulls.

 

You could have saved yourself some money and baught the 360 weights which are 45 grams and yes the stock ones are 60grams.

 

Scott;

I believe that the EPI weights should be an improvement over stock. They are lighter, so you would think that you would gain RPM's, but I believe from what you are saying, (I haven't tried or seen them), that they are probably curved more than stock, which would made them perform as EPI said. The curve would make you speed up quicker, but would make your motor work harder to pick up that speed. Your motor would sound like it not reving because the clutch is making it work.

I would still recommend adjustable weights to anyone. I though that I could have a guy make some, but I couldn't find any weights that were cut only on one side. It seem all weights are cut on both sides, because of this, there isn't room for the heads of the bolts you would need to add to adjust your weights.

Thunder product sells the ones like I have, but it takes some time grinding to get them to work. I have a picture of a set of three on my pic's if anyone want to see. This is how they look before I ground on them. You would grind a notch on the bottom of the weight, on the very end.

I recommend adjustable weights, not only because you can adjust you RPM's with them, you can also move weight around on the weight itself. Example, if racing with big tires, you bogg comeing out of the hole, you would lighten the part of the weight closest to the pin and add it out farther to the end. Weight stays the same, but you changed how the clutch reacts.

Scott; Let us know how they work and congrads on the pulling win. These weights should help with the pulls!

 

I've returned from vacation with the 56 gram EPI weights. Now for a stupid question - can you remove the weights w/o taking the clutch completely off the machine? If not, I'll wait until I can borrow my dealer's puller on Monday. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

I think you can pull the back end of the clutch off, on a polaris primary clutch you can I hope you can on the Kawi too. Pull it off and look on the back side of it.