Belt on 360
#1
#2
Belt on 360
If it is squaking at takeoff, the belt is loose, glazed, and wearing the pulleys down.
If there is a high pitched whine it might be the KEBC bearing. I hate a tip on my website for that.
If there is a bad grinding sound it might be a bad belt, or a bad driven pulley bushing. You gotta look and see.
If there is a high pitched whine it might be the KEBC bearing. I hate a tip on my website for that.
If there is a bad grinding sound it might be a bad belt, or a bad driven pulley bushing. You gotta look and see.
#4
Belt on 360
I think highlifter & EPI offer one, I'd forget it though & just put in a black secondary spring, dont waste your money. If you want much better low & mid end get the red secondary spring, but you'll loose 2-3 mph on top end & have a bit more engine noise from the increased RPM
#6
Belt on 360
Hah, there are other posts on this.
Instal a 4 degree flywheel key. Advanced timing.
Port the heads. More flow at higher RPM.
Raise the compression ratio to 9.5 (or so). More power overall. Increased heat, so always use synthetic oil, like amsoil.
Retard the cam 10 degrees or maybe a little more. More higher RPM power, possibly a reduction at lower rpms. The compression increase may even out the bottom end.
If you retard the cam, make sure that you change the weights to accomodate the change in the power output. The power will be much better at higher RPMs so you need the clutch to hold the engine RPM up a but.
Trade it for a 650?
The list of things I said above are just the 360 equivalent of what we are doing to get gobs more power from the 650. You should just about forget a big bore kit since I don't belive anyone will make one. the 360 piston is fairly big already compared to the 650 (smallest) and 700 piston (smaller), but it is possible that you could get a piston from something else that would have a similar wrist pin diam and crown height with just a couple more millimeters of bore. You can get tons more power out. No one has done any of the above listed things except olemanmoses has done the degree key. He says he got a little more power. He knows he needs to do more stuff, I think he is still deciding which direction to go.
Instal a 4 degree flywheel key. Advanced timing.
Port the heads. More flow at higher RPM.
Raise the compression ratio to 9.5 (or so). More power overall. Increased heat, so always use synthetic oil, like amsoil.
Retard the cam 10 degrees or maybe a little more. More higher RPM power, possibly a reduction at lower rpms. The compression increase may even out the bottom end.
If you retard the cam, make sure that you change the weights to accomodate the change in the power output. The power will be much better at higher RPMs so you need the clutch to hold the engine RPM up a but.
Trade it for a 650?
The list of things I said above are just the 360 equivalent of what we are doing to get gobs more power from the 650. You should just about forget a big bore kit since I don't belive anyone will make one. the 360 piston is fairly big already compared to the 650 (smallest) and 700 piston (smaller), but it is possible that you could get a piston from something else that would have a similar wrist pin diam and crown height with just a couple more millimeters of bore. You can get tons more power out. No one has done any of the above listed things except olemanmoses has done the degree key. He says he got a little more power. He knows he needs to do more stuff, I think he is still deciding which direction to go.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff Roper
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
1
02-01-2022 11:48 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)