I checked mine back when Nyroc ordered it and mine was loose.Tonight I was replacing my frt diff seal and just for grins I checked it again and it was LOOSE! I tried to torque it to 48 ft lbs and that did not get it this time.I tightened it to 80 although I wonder if just cranking it down will do????...Does anyone know if there is a bushing in the block there??? I can't tell.This was tightened just 200 miles ago.
02 650 camo

 

Put you a little non-permanent (blue) Loc-Tite on there. Let it set up overnight before getting it hot. It won't come loose then.

 

I thought about that and even thought about double nutting it.
02 650 camo

 

The service manual says to torque the engine mounting bolt to 43 ft lb, be careful. How did the front diff seal replacement go. I just posted regarding this. Is it as simple as removing the propeller shaft and the nut that is after it?

 

Don't loctite it, take the nut off and antiseize it. The bolt isn't coming loose, the movement is making the block wear away. So what it needs is max clamping force. You can get higher clamping forces if you use anti seize on the threads. The nut is a locknut anyway, no need for loctite.

 

Thats what I was worried about nyroc.I CRANKED it this time.Screw that 43 lbs LOL.The seal job was no big deal.You just roll back the rubber rings on the front joint covers and the shaft slides back on a spring.I did not get mine all the way out but you can slide it out of the diff to get the seal out and the new one in.You do not need to remove any nuts.Take the rf wheel off,that helps.A seal puller will not work on this either.I just curshed it on one side with a screwdriver and a hammer.Be careful to not booger up the housing.Oil will come out so you will need to top the diff off again.Tapping it in is a trick also...just use a small tack hammer.It does not take much force.Mine was leaking pretty good.I can't help but wonder if that engine jumping up and down is not a factor in that seal leaking.It can change the angle of the drive shaft it appears.
Nyroc,is there a bushing in the block where that bolt passes thru???if not there should be.The hole on the block seems MUCH larger than the bolt.
02 650 camo

 

When I found mine loose, I got the impression that part of the problem was that from the factory, the bolt is torqued with a layer of paint on both sides of each frame tab. On mine it looked like the flaking off paint had contributed to it being loose. Just a thought, I actually haven't checked again since, think I will soon.

 

Kodiac1
Did you change both inner and outer seals where the shaft goes into the diff or just one?

 

Just the outer seal.I am not sure there are two.The factory seal is a double lip, kind of like a wheelbearing seal on a boat trailer.It comes out easy but just be careful you don't mess up the diff housing.I was not able to actually remove the front drive shaft either.I took the frt two rubbers off[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] and when I got the old seal out I just pulled it back against the spring pressure to get the seal out then the same to get it in. GENTLY tapping the new one is the hardest part.You just can't hardly get a swing of any kind.
02 650 camo

 

Kodiac1
There are two. 92049-1572 inner and 92049-1573 outer. I haven't taken it apart myself but its the second time I am having them changed under warranty. It looks like you remove the 6mm nut and washer. Then the coupling and seals come out together. You have been in there and seen it so you probably have a better idea of how it looks. I am going by the parts diagram. My mechanic is going to replace both seals and the coupling this time. If you are interested I can ask him the correct procedure.

I'm going to tell him to check the motor mounts. Thanks for the heads up on that.