JUST WENT ON A RIDE TODAY WITH MY BF AND NINE OTHER QUADS. WE RIDE REAL AGRESSIVLY. THE OTHERS BEHIND ME SAY IM ON TWO WHEELS A LOT. THE GRIZZ,KINGQUAD,POLARIS STAY PLANTED. THIS UPSETS ME BECAUSE I COULD REALLY BE FAST INSTEAD OF A LITTLE FASTER. HAS ANYONE DISCONNECTED THEIR SWAYBAR? OR IS THERE A SMALLER DIAMETER AVAILABLE. I AM RUNNING 26" MAXIS BIGHORNS ON STOCK RIMS.

 

Stock rims are 12x7 at the most. I ride with alot of guys as well the the East Coast Speedball crew (140 members) Most of us that have the Brute 750 like myself have pretty much the same problem. These bikes are a little tippy. Other then high dollar after market shocks for a suspension change we have found that a set of 12x8 rims (carlisle makes them) with I believe its the 05 Grizz offset and of coarse 4x110 lug pattern this will set the rims out just a little further but still keeps them under the fender. The rear wheels are about even with the edge of the fender. The wider rim flattens out the tire and enhances the stability tremendously!! This is just our finding!! Ride Safe Ride Fast Ride Hard... Just Ride!!

 

THANXS FOR THE INFO. I WAS LOOKING FOR A SUSPENSION FIX. THE WHEEL FIX IS WELL DOCUMENTED. I GUESS ITS TIME TO MAKE A CALL TO WORKS OR ELKA. I HATE TO SPEND THE MONEY FOR SOMETHING THAT SHOULD BE CORRECT FROM THE FACTORY.

 

The Big problem here is the BF750 is just too Stiff for a IRS 4wheeler, great for powersliding but everything else suffers.
The Stock Shocks are the same all around, different weight up frt vs the rear with the same stock shocks, spells nothing but trouble and not a good handling Brute.
I too am a bit surprised that Kawasaki did this on their Flagship 4wheeler but that being said, I still dig owning the big Brute.
I did bite the bullet and invest in a set of WORKS SHOCKS, frt/rr, will worth the investment. Everything has been greatly improved and the Handling is now perfect..
Knowing this fault with the BF750, I would still buy another BF. The Power is great and with some upgrades it is even better.

 

how much were the works shocks and where did you buy them?

does it ride nicer on rocks and stuff now?

handle better too?

 

YES.
I bought the WORKS Shocks for my '05 BF750. Fixed all of the problems I was having in the handling department, no matter what type of Terrain I was in.
Like I said before, I would buy another Brute And I DID.
Now I have the redesigned '07 BF750, the same front end as the BF650i's, big improvement vs the stock set-up on the '05.
I still feel the Stock Shocks suck however, even on the '07. These Stock shocks are too firm, don't allow rear wheel movement. The problem is NOT the sway-bar but the overstiff Shocks. I am in the process of switching over the WORKS Shocks off of the '05 BF750 to my '07 BF750 but I can not report on the results till after Nov 11th.
WORKS Suspension is your best bet to order your Shocks from. They offer both the Steeler AT's and the G-series, cost range from $800 for 4 & on up, depending on your options you have on the Shocks. You can also just get the frts or rears first if money is tight or go with the Basic set-up like I did first w/the Steeler AT's, then upgrade the Shocks at a later time, I did that too. I 1st spent $800 for all 4 WORKS Steeler ATs, then a year later I sent the WORKS Shocks back to WORKS & had the preload adjusters installed w/remote res'es. The Res'es are required but they do allow the WORKS shock to work even better. Total after the upgrades, I have $1200 in my 4 WORKS Shocks.

 

procharger, you can unhook your sway bar, but that will slow you down. it allows a lot more body lean in corners. i have mine removed and prefer it this way, but i do not ride fast. i also have Elka shocks, but like i say, this is more for more articulation on rock than speed. good shocks is your only upgrade IMO

between the Elkas and sway bar removal, i can ride faster on nasty trails than other atvs, even without trying, but on fast easy trails, i gotta watch it. between the missing sway bar and 3-4 psi in 27" Bighorns, things can get exciting in corners.

monty

 

You have to lose somewhere. You have a great running engine that will put the smack down. You don't have to shift gears so you get constant pulling power no matter your speed or throttle position. Good ground clearance, good suspension travel, variable diff lock. The 750 is more well suited pulling a load in low range than it is taking a corner at high speed. Do you actually think the 750 would handle good when it is capable of towing 1,250lbs? The racks can hold 264lbs. It's a sport/utility quad. Sport b/c it is fast and has power a plenty and it has sporty plastic. But it's more of a utility vehicle b/c it can really pull and handle the weight you put on it.
Lower it a bit, widen it out, and soften the rear and it should handle better but then you would have been better off getting the 650. I still think the 650 is a better buy myself. I guess unless you are rock crawiling or you get crossed up in ditches all the time.