Hey guys, I took my 360 in to get the primary clutch looked at. Ive already talked to olemanmoses and Unithis about this and i have the same symtoms as they did which were took awhile to engage and then it would quickly and would stay engaged and when at idle would move. Well, i got my atv back the other day and they said that a 77 doller bushing and another 7$ peace in the primary were bad. THey replaced it and then took 1 shim out of the secondary. As i put it in gear, i hear a little squeek at which i know is good because the belt is tight but again after a little riding, my 360 will misteriously start to stay in gear and move. Whats up, Went back to the dealer and they said the belt is to tight. That cant be right, because it would do this all the time not just random times so im on here asking what i should do. I got the shim back from him. Should i loosen the belt or get into the clutch more.

 

how's your idling screw? The bike shouldn't move when it's stopped. try pushing the machine backwards when stopped. I have never seen a belt where it would move the bike because the belts too tight. If it is I would have it fixed because it would have to be hard on your bike too not to say hard on the belt and it sure wouldn't stay tight very long.

 

When the belt is that tight it will last longer and squeal when in gear, also tend to pull itself forward. The reason it does it at random is because the temperature of the belt, the longer you ride it heat up and when you stop it will squeal more and more forward at idle. My '02 650 Prairie went through 3 belts in 1000 miles, then I tightened the belt until it squealed and would put it in netural when stopped and it lasted 3000 miles.

Its OK, just put trans in netural when you stop.


good luck................

handycap

 

I had the exact same thing happen to my 700. Mine turned out to be the fuse controlling the kebc had blown while the engine braking was activated. Because of the fuse blowing the engine braking was left activated keeping the belt tight. I don't know if this is your problem but my bike would roll along at idle like it was had manual transmission that was left in gear. The only way to get it to stop was hold the brakes tight which made the belt slip. I'm not saying that's it but sometimes it's the little simple things that get overlooked.

 

I think the fuse problem could be a possibility. The reason i dont think it is the belt is because at first when left in gear it would just squeel, when it sticks is when i come to an idle and it acts the same way as before when i didnt get it fixed. So it has to be somthing else like the rollers or somthing like that that the dealer didnt fix. Maybe?

 

my 360,,and 700p did same thing its the ebc motor ,,its shot, i its not the clutch,dealer sud have freakin know that,,

 

when you say it moves in gear at idle, will the engine stall if you stop the bike?? This is what mine was doin---the bushings on the weight arms were worn oval and one of the weight arms started wearing into the rollers that they push against---

I hated throwing good money into the stock clutch especially after I started seeing that alot of people are now having Kawi clutch problems--I remember when I first started posting on this forum and Kawi clutch probs were few---it seems around 3000 miles the clutch goes south---That is why I bought the Comet clutch--I still aint sayin if the comet is better or not, I know its cheaper and has been working good so far---didnt help performance any, but didnt seem to hurt any either--I think I still need fine tuning with the weight arms, and just for everyone information, Comet recommends their Pink Primary spring for all Prairie models, I did not like the high engagement rpm with the pink and put their Orange spring in---It seems alot better with lower engagement rpm, which also helps on disengagement rpm because my KEBC is also non-functioning and I dont miss it a bit

 

My bushing in the clutch were worn and i did get the fixed by the dealer, Is there any way i can dissconect the Engine brake to make sure. I balieve it is the one causing probs because the light flashes. Im not gonna buy a new one, is there a way to keep it from doing this.

 

Previous post are correct, if the KEBC actuator is malfuctioning, the fork will not let the primary release completely, I have experienced this. However you should most likely be getting a flashing 4wd light when it malfunctions, maybe not but I do.. Try this, when it happens, turn off the engine with the key, then fire it back up in a few seconds, if it's the KEBC it will most likely release, mine does.. If that dont work you can simply disconect the wiring harness from the actuator itself, just follow the wire up for the actuator it's only a few inches long & you will clearley see the wiring harness connector, you'll get flashing red lights but it dont matter, just make sure you keep mud & water out of the connectors. I would disconect it while the clutch if operating normally, then see if the acts up again, if it does I dont see how it could be the actuator..

 

Exactly Uinthas, I was worried awhile back about me needing a new primary because it would take awhile to engage. Well dealer inpspected it and the primary needed new bushings. I got them put in and thought that was the reason for sticking in gear. You are right, Ive always turned my atv off when it sticks and it lets go. What should i do.