I have everything disconnected to take my head off, except the timing chain.

To explain, my motor has a HORRIBLE tapping sound coming from the exhaust valve, I've tried to adjust it out to no avail, it is also very under powered.

If I pull up on the compression release on that valve, just before stalling, it goes away.

I can't find it, so figure take the head off and inspect the valves / valve job.

But, I dont have a manual, and am confused by the timing chain. I see two marks on the top sprocket, above the KLF series numbers on opposing sides... are those timing chain marks? But I do NOT see any marks on the chain itself or a different colored links to line up with these marks.

How do I prevent the chain coming off of the bottom sprocket (I have not taken off the pull recoil start and do not wish to). Do I need to lossen the chain tensioner to ease removing the chain from the top sprocket? How? I see where it is, not sure how it operates.

The biggie is where do I line up the chain to the top sprocket and how do I assure not coming off the bottom and losing timing there?

do I need to put paint marks on the sprocket and chain in two spots to help realign them when reassembling?

Appreciate any link to a manual page or "how to" instructions, etc..

any suggestions on the VERY loud tappet sound I have?
Thank you in advance..

Steve

 

I've got the manual for it, I'm about to tear off the head/cyl for a top end rebuild. Let me see what I can find in the manual. I think I recall from looking that there is a mark for the timing up top 12'o clock on the cam gear needs to be lined up with the "." mark on the topend. Then the little screw hole covered on the left side of the engine block where the flywheel is market with a "T" needs to be aligned. I do not think it is necessary to keep the chain aligned, the refer to use a wire or screwdriver to prevent the chain from falling down into the block.

 

Thanks Silvereagle for the help, That is exactly what I found as well.. I got the head off just yesterday..

I found, to my shock, that the cam and both valve rockers were very very worn down... can't believe it even ran or that they could wear that badly..

One rocker was worn unevenly about the thickness of a quarter or more.. so the slapping was it riding up the cam, then slamming down on the flat spot..

Yup, thats about $275 in new parts.. almost bought a used head for $90 on ebay hoping it had decent parts, but I didn't.

Thank goodness the valves were very good, a bit cleaning them up, and they were actually seated very well already.

Tks again..

 

I have a question how do I remove the timing chain on a 1990 Kawasaki bayou 300 4x4

 

Just checked the manual, if you are taking the chain completely off, you remove the adjuster, first slackening the bolt on top of it slightly. Pull start, alternator case and flywheel have to come off, as does starter chain and a tin shroud in front of lower sprocket. Remove upper sprocket and chain can be removed through case. Note refitting adjuster is odd but easy, shove adjuster plunger into adjuster, slacken bolt further, shove adjuster further in, nip bolt up lightly. Plunger should then stay in. After refitting chain and adjuster, etc, undo adjuster bolt again slightly, plunger shoots in against guide and takes up slack, tighten bolt back up. It is a bit vague about torques but flywheel/pull start bolt seems to be 43ft/lb. This is important, too slack and flywheel comes loose, too tight and you will never get the flywheel off again.